Reeflux

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14934489#post14934489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef Stallion
This is my point. You clearly state that you don't like the look of the bulb and you knew that the quality of the bulb is inferior to German bulbs yet something made you buy them anyway. I think that I know what that is.

I think that the reason is "the hope" that buying a Reeflux bulb will make my corals look like the corals I see featured on RC or in the TOTM. I know that's why I bought them. I saw a TOTM with outstanding growth and color and "the coral was greener on the other side" so to speak.

I think that the poor quality of the Reeflux bulbs, as well as poor response from your system, dashed those hopes. I know that my system doesn't look like TOTM and I've been running Reeflux for a year. I know that the next temptation out their are T5 bulbs. Everyone wants T5 bulbs now. There are many reasons people give but the bottom line is that they saw someones tank running T5's that blew them away!

I am staying with Reeflux for now because even though I have been disappointed with the growth and coloration of my corals, I have not had a poor quality experience. I also know that the problem with my tank is probably not my lighting. In fact, I am one of those guys who has shortened his photoperiod by 30% and seen improved growth and color. I am going to try the 20K bulbs, but I also like the look of the bulbs.

Actually, I didnt realize the quality differences until buying many different bulbs and realizing the the consistency and quality of the Euro made lamps was generally superior to that of the chinese made lamps. I didnt buy Reeflux lamps despite knowing the quality was better with the German lamps. I ran VHO for years and years, then tried halides, T5s, and then finally halide with T5 supplements for color. It really wasnt until I had purchased many different lamps, some chinese, some European and some Iwasaki lamps made in Japan ... that I drew my general conclusions after seeing the better consistency of the German lamps (and the Iwasakis) compared to the chinese made lamps.
There are 3 lamps that I really like ... Iwasaki 50000K 150 DE or Medium base, Ushio 20000K any base or wattage and Iwasaki 14000K 250 DE and the Iwasaki 15000K 175 watt. I also think that the Ushio 14000K is a fantastic lamp if you have enough blue flourescents to offset the warmer look. And the Aqualine Buscke 13000K with blue supplements. So basically, I have found the lamps I like best for different par requirements/applications through trial and error over the past few years. But these are very personal choices in terms of color preference.

But It had nothing to do with buying Reeflux lamps despite having already drawn my own conclusions about the general quality and consistency differences between the different countries of manufacture.
Actually, the Reeflux were some of the early lamps that I tried.

One thing regarding the nipple orientation ... 250 watt DE and 400 watt DE lamps rely on the manufacturers orientation of the nipple. You can only orient these lamps one way in the sockets. I have actually had a 250 watt DE chinese made lamp pair in which one lamp had the nipple facing up when in the socket and the other lamp was facing down. Another manufacturer was consistent but both lamps had the nipple facing down when installed in the socket.
 
My experience with Reeflux bulbs has been absolutely awful. I had ordered a pair and after a week one of them would not fire at all. I contacted Coralvue and they blamed it on my ballast until they found out it was one of theirs. Then they blamed it on a power surge of some sort. Whatever, I'm not perfect so maybe I mishandled the bulb somehow and I bought a replacement bulb because the company wasn't going to replace it.

I've had these things for 4 months now and the color shifts many times throughout the day. Sometimes they're blue, sometimes they're white. Their story that the problem is limited to California because somehow the energy source varies is total BS.

PAR is awful, less than 200 at only 10" below the surface. I'm getting less than 80 at the bottom of a 24" deep tank using Lumenarc reflectors. growth is minimal. I'm getting much better growth in my frag tank where I use an ebay 20k bulb which seems light years ahead of this reeflux junk. When it's time for bulbs I may go M80/Radiums.
 
I just got a set of 400 20k's and absolutley love these bulbs the colors and brightness are fantastic.:D

I did try 12k 250 watt and they were way too dim and too blue, not happy with the 250 watt version:mad:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14938305#post14938305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wrench
When it's time for bulbs I may go M80/Radiums.
You will kick your self in the .ss for not doing it sooner. IMO best combination for color and growth.
 
Its a HQI ballast.

the 250w radium's are designed for that ballast. the bulbs are not being aver driven so they last 10 to 12 months. when i decided to yous this combination i was afraid they were going to be to blue for my taste. but to me on that ballast they look more like a 14k with better pop.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14941580#post14941580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JDS
You will kick your self in the .ss for not doing it sooner. IMO best combination for color and growth.
After researching and pics of tanks this is the combo i will be going with over a 240 shallow.And as far as nipple orientation on the reeflux it really does matter on length of bulb life and spectrum change.If the color would stay the same and the bulb wouldnt fizzle out so quick it would still be top choice for me cause i really liked the color.
 
I think I'm going to give the Reeflux 20K's a try next month before I give up on the brand entirely.
 
Out of the last 6 radiums i had,they were all the same color in a three lamp fixture and lasted well over a year before i noticed a drop in intensity or color.I wish i could say that for coral vue or XM.I spent a big # on the coralvue when they first became popular a couple years ago and also bought the coralvue ballasts so the last thing i wanted to do was admit i made a mistake there but after switching back to radium i know i did wrong.If you run a single or even a 2 lamp fixture it would be hard to see the inconsistency in the coral vues but in my case when you put 3 next to each other and they fire different colors on a daily basis it was quite evident.I will say that when they were new i had great blue colors in my sps corals but the reds and greens were not as nice as with other bulbs.Strangely enough some people have great sucess with them .
 
Well, I adjusted the bulb so that the nipple and vent were as close to 12 o'clock that I could get it without breaking the bulb...probably more like 11:30 or 12:30...hopefully that is enough.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14931083#post14931083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJay
I thought Reeflux were made in Japan, that's not the case?
when I spoke to david 2 year ago about my reeflux 10k pink color problem he mention the nipple orientation, and also told me that their reeflux bulb where made by fuji films.
I have good result with reeflux, now own the 20k they look nice but not as radium.
my friend at world wide use radium and I have some of their sps frags and definitively
a huge difference in coloration growth, the reeflux look clean as far the tank look almost like radium but corals not seen to be as colorful.I will try getting better combination with this 20k till they burn on me if I don't see result I'm definitively switching to radium and hope my coralvue ballast work with this bulbs
my 2 cents
:)
 
Would like to throw this out there....

but if you are running DE bulbs do you really have a choice on which way the nipple is oriented in your fixture?

I run four Lumenarc mini stealths and given the sockets on the DE pendants you only have one way to install the bulb. So if the nipple on the bulb is pointing down when you install the bulb, your pretty much going to go with the nipple down.

Am I mistaking something here?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14955343#post14955343 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rpeeples
Would like to throw this out there....

but if you are running DE bulbs do you really have a choice on which way the nipple is oriented in your fixture?

I run four Lumenarc mini stealths and given the sockets on the DE pendants you only have one way to install the bulb. So if the nipple on the bulb is pointing down when you install the bulb, your pretty much going to go with the nipple down.

Am I mistaking something here?

I addressed that several posts above ...


"One thing regarding the nipple orientation ... 250 watt DE and 400 watt DE lamps rely on the manufacturers orientation of the nipple. You can only orient these lamps one way in the sockets. I have actually had a 250 watt DE chinese made lamp pair in which one lamp had the nipple facing up when in the socket and the other lamp was facing down. Another manufacturer was consistent but both lamps had the nipple facing down when installed in the socket."

If the manufacturer oriented the nipple/bulb contacts so that the nipple faces down, then it faces down and there is no option. Only with the 150 watt and 70 watt DE's can you orient the bulb for nipple up or down because of the different socket/contact type.
 
Perfect, thanks DarG.

I just installed some 10K DE 250W ReeFlux on a BlueWave 7 Mag Ballast via lumenarc min stealths. They appear to have a nice crisp white with a slight blue tint. Obviously they have not had a chance to burn in but so far I like the color...hopefully my corals will to.
 
People are crazy for reeflux in this thread, http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1524211&highlight=reeflux

It feels like I stepped into a twilight zone. :spin3:

Can someone please have Sanjay do a test and put all this chatter to rest? With the reports that Reeflux bulbs lose their blue over a certain time.I would like to see that test carry on for at least 5 months.

THREAD WARS! :uzi:

or it could be this, :beer:

I just bought a Reeflux 20k se bulb too. It's coming in the mail tomorrow. :hmm1:
 
Sorry, I'm a bit baffled by this....

'but if you are running DE bulbs do you really have a choice on which way the nipple is oriented in your fixture?' On every DE fixture/bulb I've owned you can just flip them over one way or the other, so yes, you do have a choice. On SE on the other hand you are assuming that when it is screwed in tight enough to contact it will be possible to move it a bit to get it nipple up.

Personally I've had 400W Reeflux 10K's on a Coralvue ballast and it was terribly pink/orange. I got it used, but wasn't chancing it and got a Ushio/BLV 14K instead, and on that ballast that is a beautiful bulb.

I wonder on one of the tanks earlier where all sorts of lights, ballasts were dimming and changing colours if it wasn't due to electromag radiation from all the shop hardware?
 
Sorry, I'm a bit baffled by this....

'but if you are running DE bulbs do you really have a choice on which way the nipple is oriented in your fixture?' On every DE fixture/bulb I've owned you can just flip them over one way or the other, so yes, you do have a choice. On SE on the other hand you are assuming that when it is screwed in tight enough to contact it will be possible to move it a bit to get it nipple up.

Personally I've had 400W Reeflux 10K's on a Coralvue ballast and it was terribly pink/orange. I got it used, but wasn't chancing it and got a Ushio/BLV 14K instead, and on that ballast that is a beautiful bulb.

I wonder on one of the tanks earlier where all sorts of lights, ballasts were dimming and changing colours if it wasn't due to electromag radiation from all the shop hardware?

The 250 watt and 400 watt double ended halides used in the hobby have an FC2 base type which is "keyed" such that it only fits one way into the socket. The hobbyist is at the mercy of the lamp manufacturer as to orientation of the "nipple" when the lamp is installed in the socket. They CANNOT be inverted to change the nipple orientation as they only slide into the socket in one, single orientation. You can turn the lamp around as the contacts on each end are identical but that doesnt change the orientation of the nipple to allow it to face up or down. Again, you are at the mercy of the lamp manufacturer as to how they oriented the base/contacts in relation to the "nipple".

The 150 watt and 70 watt double ended lamps have a different base, I believe the base type is called RSC. But regardless, it is not keyed like the 250 and 400 watt de lamps. So the 150 and 70 watt halides can be installed in the socket two ways ... it can be inverted to allow the "nipple" to face up or down.

Ushio makes very good quality, consistent lamps at a good price (relatively speaking). I love the color of their 20K's (not a super blue lamp) in all wattages, both SE and DE, when maximum par isnt necessary. I find their 14K's to be a bit on the warm side for my tastes but they are great lamps. One can always add blue flourescent supplementation and have very good par and color if they arent into the super blue look.
 
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