Reefugium...Sand, Mud or nothing?

REDDAWG43

New member
I need some advice…I am setting up a 46 gal bow front.
It will have a 10 gal tank as a sump w/ a reefugium. Now
my question is….what are people using in their reefugiums and
how’s is it working so far? Some use live sand, or magic mud,
or even nothing but cheato…. Please school me…lol
 
i use mud to make a 4-5 inch bed then another 2 inches of live sand over it....then cheato and live rock ontop of that....others may have another method but this is what i use....
 
I cheated and got mine from a beach, but i'd go with store bought live sand if you can afford. I've never tied that fuge mud but i've been wondering myself how good it works. Def get some chaeto it has a number of benifits.
 
I use less then 1" of sand, live rocks and some cheatomorpha. That is all you need. No need for a DSB unless you have a big surface area, otherwise it can create problems with your water quality. Sand isn't really required either.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8406648#post8406648 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newreefbishop
i use mud to make a 4-5 inch bed then another 2 inches of live sand over it....then cheato and live rock ontop of that....others may have another method but this is what i use....

How big is your sump? I did basically the same design with a 10gal tank. Tight Squeeze but it's all that could fit in the cabinet.
My friend is removing the sand from his reefugium due to he says it collecting too much gook...
Also how is the mud working out....no much info on it that I could find on the net.

Mel
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8410261#post8410261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ek9vboi
I use less then 1" of sand, live rocks and some cheatomorpha. That is all you need. No need for a DSB unless you have a big surface area, otherwise it can create problems with your water quality. Sand isn't really required either.


I think my set-up will be like yours...Since it's a 46gal bowfront.
There's not a whole lot of surface area. I think I will do 1-2 inch of sand, live rock, and cheato.

Thanks for the advice from all you guys.
Once I get further along I will post some pics.

Mel
 
If your 10g tank is for a refugium only, i would use sand/mud but there are mixed results from what i have read.
 
There's not of info on the mud out there...and the reviews I have seen are mixed. But everyone agrees atleast on the sand part. So for now I think I will go with only sand as the reefugium foundation. Need to learn more about the mud, and possibly in the future design a bigger tank with a bigger sump.

Mel
 
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Question....Whats the difference on the depth of the bed? If the suface area of the sand is the same on a 1'' bed and 5'' bed, how does the depth affect the cleaning process....

Thanks
MEL
 
Mine is 15 gallon Long.....

Honestly it seems to be a preference....I am growing mangroves withe my chaeto.....so it need something stable for them to root. Also seems like my pods love em...
 
My refugium is bare bottomed (same as my tank) and has some extra pieces of LR and a big ball of chaeto.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8411598#post8411598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
My refugium is bare bottomed (same as my tank) and has some extra pieces of LR and a big ball of chaeto.

That is all you need. People get too carried away with the idea of sand. I guess trial and error...
 
My DSB is in a 30 Gallon sump it has three layers first a 1/2 shelf of egg crate covered with mesh basically void space, second 4" of sand covered with mesh so nothing will disturb it and third top layer 1" inch of sand, some live rock and chaeto. If any detritus accumulates it would be on the top and you would deal with it just the same as a shallow bed there is a lot of information on this method and the advantages I got my design about four years ago from GARF and has worked great on my system. Research, ask questions and experiment to find out what works for your system.
 
Hai jeffbrig, how many stabil is your nitrate and phosphate with chaeto refug? is your refug 24/7 or reverse daylight photosyn. Thank's
 
Very stable. The fuge is lit 24/7, mainly because I've been too lazy to set up a reverse photoperiod timer for it. :D Low-range nitrate test is ~0.2ppm, phosphate is ~.03ppm using salifert test kits. I don't run any phosphate removers in the tank. I have found that I have to dose iron periodically to keep the chaeto from turning yellow, and it grows slow and steady, hopefully because it is nutrient limited.
 
i agree with a bare bottom refugium also. MUCH easier to keep cleaner, and will become a real PITA if you do your water changes from your sump also.

having only 1-2" defeats the purpose of having sand there in the first place.

i would only add sand if your going to make a DSB, or using mineral mud about an inch thick.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8411223#post8411223 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by REDDAWG43
Question....Whats the difference on the depth of the bed? If the suface area of the sand is the same on a 1'' bed and 5'' bed, how does the depth affect the cleaning process....

hey bawla47
could you explain this to me? I am new to this....so I am still at a loss for an answer to this. Thanks

Mel
 
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I guess I'm kind of weird when it comes to what I do with my refugiums. First, I'd better explain the tank setup.

My tank is a 5 year old tank (or maybe 6, I always forget which) that was moved 3 and a half weeks ago. It was filtered with bioballs, sponges, activated carbon, and protein skimming when I got it.

The overflow is a CPR dual 1 inch overflow, connected to a siphon pump. I don't really need the pump on there as long as I have the air tube sealed, but I haven't taken it off yet. I have a mag 24 with about 6 feet of head. There is a T that currently diverts flow back into the sump. That will connect to the remote deep sand bed.

In order to increase the growth of everything (including microalgaes) in the tank, I deliberately left the skimmer out and slightly overfed. Bioload is light for a 180, so it hasn't been difficult.

This weekend will be 4 weeks that it's been running at my place, so I am going to start setting up my refugiums and RDSB.

The remote deep sand bed will have 120 pounds of regular silica play sand in a 27g container, unless I change my mind again. The flow will come from a T on my return pump, diverting about 1000 - 1,200 GPH, and will return to the sump via a gravity drain. This is for nitrate reduction only, no aragonite buffering.

I currently have two 15 gallon long tanks to use for refugiums but I will probably switch to 20 longs because I want a 5:1 ratio between display and refugium.

When I finish the stand for the refugiums, they will be fed from the 2 line external overflow on the back of the 180g display tank. The refugiums will be set up as displays, as well, because I'm obsessed with invertebrates, apparently. Each of the two lines will go to a seperate refugium and each refuglium will have drilled overflows that flow back to the sump.

The first refugium will be a mangrove refugium, using red mangrove pods in my own special mud recipe with some small pieces of LR for bristle worms to crawl in. I'll also have "cleaner clams" in this tank, in addition to the ones I have in the display tank already. I may have snails in this tank, but I expect most of the cleanup to be done by worms. This refugium will have a 32 or 40 watt T8 lamp, depending on the sizes available.

The second refugium will be divided into two sections. The left side, about 70% of the total refugium space, will have 1.5 inches of sand with a variety of slow growing macros, like ulva, turtle grass, gracilaria, shaving brush, and so on. The other side (30%) will be 1/2 inch of sand covered with 3 inches of live rock rubble. I'll have chaeto over the rubble. I'll have snails in this tank, but no hermits. This refugium will have two clamp on shop lamps running 6500k halogen flood lamps.

The purpose in the different macros in the second refugium are to grow and propagate for the main tank. I broguht Mr Tang home from the tank at my office and he'll tear through the plants as I move them over.

If I get all of this done by the end of my vacation next week, I'll get somebody to take pictures of it and post them here.

PS, the carbon and sponges are coming out when the refugiums come in and I'm going to divide the bioballs up into four nylon bags to make cleaning easier. Detritus that makes it to the sumb past the clams, worms, and snails, will stick to the nylon bags while water flows through the bag and into the bacteria colonies living in the bioballs. It makes it easy as the dickens to do a cleaning rotation on the balls and, when I did this on my 75 gallon tank, I never once developed a nutrient sink in 3 years.
 
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