reidcrandall
New member
There are little dollies that they make that attach to the bottom of them. I got mine at Home Depot.
Home Depot Brute Dolly
Home Depot Brute Dolly
Reid's 120g Oceanic Tech Build
- Thread starter reidcrandall
- Start date
reidcrandall
New member
Woooo! Weld on 4 and needle applicators got here today. There will be much sump building this weekend!
reidcrandall
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14975876#post14975876 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
I contest that it's a 32 gallon brute.
Some good progress.
I contest your contesting. I've got 8 5g jugs dumped in there, baby!
reidcrandall
New member
Sump Check
Sump Check
BEfore I build the sump tomorrow, I've put together a design and a cut list/diagram. Did I miss anything?
Any suggestions?
Sump Check
BEfore I build the sump tomorrow, I've put together a design and a cut list/diagram. Did I miss anything?
Any suggestions?
reidcrandall
New member
Anyone? Anyone?
Taqpol
New member
Looks good to me. More and more having two different return pumps seems like a really good idea. I would be a little worried about having the return plumbing going all the way to the bottom of the tank, but as long as you incorporate good siphon breaks that can not possibly fail, you should be ok.
reidcrandall
New member
I was going to make thm at 1" or 1.5".
luther1200
Premium Member
How thick is the acrylic you are using. (is it acrylic?)
I also don't see why you have a top piece, unless you are using the top as a single piece eurobrace, or something like that. The top will be open right?
I also don't see why you have a top piece, unless you are using the top as a single piece eurobrace, or something like that. The top will be open right?
melev
Well-known member
Yes, what thickness is the acrylic? Half inch? If it is quarter inch, the end pieces and baffles are all 23.5" wide.
You don't need two baffles after the refugium.
I would suggest you keep the sump at 16" tall instead of 18" tall, since this is only a 120g reef. Take away the bottom and top pieces, and the walls are only going to need to be 15.5" tall.
Split the return and refugium zones equally.
You don't need two baffles after the refugium.
I would suggest you keep the sump at 16" tall instead of 18" tall, since this is only a 120g reef. Take away the bottom and top pieces, and the walls are only going to need to be 15.5" tall.
Split the return and refugium zones equally.
luther1200
Premium Member
Yes, that is were I was going with the thickness. But if it's 1/2 inch he will be fine like you said.
reidcrandall
New member
Yes. It's 1/4" acrylic, but I was going to route of the edges. Perhaps not though.
Yes the top is for a euro brace. I am going to use the scrap from the inside to make a top down box.
Yes the top is for a euro brace. I am going to use the scrap from the inside to make a top down box.
luther1200
Premium Member
Should be nice when its done. Can't wait to see some pics.
reidcrandall
New member
Got all ofthe pieces cut. We will e sanding them down a little bit and gluing tomorrow. Any advice on that step? How close to exct square do the pieces need to be, and how much does the Weld On 4 melt the plastic? Will it help to even out inconsistencies of maybe 1/64' along the side of a piece? Is there any way to put too much weight on a piece as it sets , and put things out of alignment?
reidcrandall
New member
I'm also looking for a small 4 bulb T5 fixture to hang over the frag tank. Any suggestions? I don't have a ton of money to spend on it right now... Maybe $200ish.
melev
Well-known member
I don't know if you've been reading the DIY acrylics section of my site yet. I may be repeating stuff you've already read.
The pieces should be very square, and when you sand down those burrs on the acrylic, avoid rounding over those edges. It would be better to scrape the edge with a utility knife razor blade held perpendicular to the acrylic, scraping it smooth.
#3 and #4 melt it equally. #4 takes a little longer to set, that's all.
If you put too much weight, you can press the solvent and melted acrylic right out of the two pieces meeting, creating a dry joint. It should be just enough, but not too much.
It doesn't fill in holes at all. The material must match up.
Using speed squares, double-check your work as you proceed. This keeps things square.
Practice with scrap so you can get a feel for how it works.
reidcrandall
New member
I will most likely use the razor blade, as you have mentioned on your site. I was worreid about creating uneven edges with it. I think I may try to clamp each piece against a straight metal edge so that I cant get too deep. Is that a decent idea?
reidcrandall
New member
Looking at 4 x 24" TEK or Sunblaze for the frag tank. Anyone have any opinions? Is the extra money for the Tek just because it looks better? If so, I don't want to spend it, because it will just be in the fish room anyway.
