required equipment for a 58 gallon SPS tank
- Thread starter mymazda6
- Start date
MiddletonMark
Premium Member
21" tall [and I'm BB].
I had 175's, and was moderately happy ... but was convinced that in terms of light, more = better. [now I'm not convinced
]
Not sure I agree with that now, though I'm very happy with the tank. Have cut photoperiod from 9-10 hours to about 6-7 hours per halide ... similar results.
Am considering going to 175 + 250 [one of each] to have a longer photoperiod without blasting my corals with IMO close to too much light.
That, plus the fact that for 250w SE, there's the most bulb choices, most research on them
I had 175's, and was moderately happy ... but was convinced that in terms of light, more = better. [now I'm not convinced
]Not sure I agree with that now, though I'm very happy with the tank. Have cut photoperiod from 9-10 hours to about 6-7 hours per halide ... similar results.
Am considering going to 175 + 250 [one of each] to have a longer photoperiod without blasting my corals with IMO close to too much light.
That, plus the fact that for 250w SE, there's the most bulb choices, most research on them
RichConley
New member
58g. Custom drilled external overflow boxes.
Lighting
1x250wDE in ROIII 6 hours on icecap
2xODNO 36" actinics (1 f32t8 running each bulb. probably similar to VHO output) 8 hours.
Sen900 on return, on a heavily modified SCWD. (Has actual 3/4" NPT outlets, and 1" inlet)
2X SEIO820
1x Maxi1200 prop mod
Run a TurboFlotor 1000 multi
trying to decide if I want to go to a lumenarc A4 for a reflector with an SE setup, but I will not go to 2 250s, totally unneeded.
SSB, with 20G BB sump/fuge combo.
Lighting
1x250wDE in ROIII 6 hours on icecap
2xODNO 36" actinics (1 f32t8 running each bulb. probably similar to VHO output) 8 hours.
Sen900 on return, on a heavily modified SCWD. (Has actual 3/4" NPT outlets, and 1" inlet)
2X SEIO820
1x Maxi1200 prop mod
Run a TurboFlotor 1000 multi
trying to decide if I want to go to a lumenarc A4 for a reflector with an SE setup, but I will not go to 2 250s, totally unneeded.
SSB, with 20G BB sump/fuge combo.
Mike O'Brien
New member
On my 58 I'm using one 250 watt AB10000, and two 24 watt T-5's. Plenty IMO
Ok heres my plan so far.for HARDWARE..any input would be great
Of course your typical
200w heater,fish net,test kits
Heres my closed loop idea
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=34610&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998
Using a mag 12 for CL, and mag 5 for a return from the sump
Lighting
1-400w 12k MH setup, with 2x96w VHO setup 1 acentic 1 10000k
also run a 9w UV Sterilzer
Skimmer
CL SS 65
Doser
Using those B-Ionic doser bucket deals..lol
An Ro/di unit with auto top off and float switch in sump
Pinpoint PH meter(really dont know whats good)
Will Run SSB, with a fuge in the sump.
Of course your typical
200w heater,fish net,test kits
Heres my closed loop idea
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=34610&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998
Using a mag 12 for CL, and mag 5 for a return from the sump
Lighting
1-400w 12k MH setup, with 2x96w VHO setup 1 acentic 1 10000k
also run a 9w UV Sterilzer
Skimmer
CL SS 65
Doser
Using those B-Ionic doser bucket deals..lol
An Ro/di unit with auto top off and float switch in sump
Pinpoint PH meter(really dont know whats good)
Will Run SSB, with a fuge in the sump.
seminolecpa
Premium Member
I run a 58 Oceanic RR tank
-90% SPS (have a few token lps and zoos for the wife).
-Mag 7 return through a 1/10 Artica chiller.
-Euro Reef RS 6-2 skimmer.
-2 250 SE 20K XM's for lighting run for 7 hrs a day actinics for 4 hours 2 before MH's 2 after.
-Tunze 6100 with controller + 3 extra Rio 600 powerheads for added flow and to hit those dead spots.
-DSB (no sandstorms)
I was dosing B-Ionic then stepped up to Randy's 2 part after my tank demanded much more. I am just about to set up a CA reactor (a single chamber from Aquatic System Design) with a Milwuakee ph controller as the daily dosing has gotten out of control.
-90% SPS (have a few token lps and zoos for the wife).
-Mag 7 return through a 1/10 Artica chiller.
-Euro Reef RS 6-2 skimmer.
-2 250 SE 20K XM's for lighting run for 7 hrs a day actinics for 4 hours 2 before MH's 2 after.
-Tunze 6100 with controller + 3 extra Rio 600 powerheads for added flow and to hit those dead spots.
-DSB (no sandstorms)
I was dosing B-Ionic then stepped up to Randy's 2 part after my tank demanded much more. I am just about to set up a CA reactor (a single chamber from Aquatic System Design) with a Milwuakee ph controller as the daily dosing has gotten out of control.
Last edited:
examiner
New member
Mymaz-
I'd encourage you to re-think the 400W MH. Most of us who are running 250's are needing to reduce our photoperiod quite a bit. What's the fun of having MH if you are only going to have them on a couple hours a day? I know Lunch gets away w/ 400's, but he's the exception to the rule. A 250 will provide more than enough lumens, and will save you money on your electric bill....and it will be a godsend when those midwestern summers roll around and it's 90+ degrees outside. 400's kick off substantially more heat than the 250's.
As far as the float switch/top off, I know many people use them. If you go this route, make sure you build some redundancy into your switches. That seems to be a common failure point. I'm unwilling to risk that, so I use a peristatic pump on a timer. I need to adjust the timer on a seasonal basis (to account for differences in evaporation), but I have 100% confidence I'm not going to flood my tank with fresh water (I drip limewater through this pump for all of my topoff water, and the timer is set to run at night).
good luck!
causeofhim
New member
I haven't used this myself: CL SS 65
But, it may underskim your system a bit. I like to get a skimmer that is rated for a larger system than I have. It really seems to keep things in check.
But, it may underskim your system a bit. I like to get a skimmer that is rated for a larger system than I have. It really seems to keep things in check.
Rob_Reef_Keeper
New member
My 58. It is BB(Starboard) now.
250W HQI PFO Mini pendant Phoenix 14K
2-95W VHO Actinics
Mag12 return
Tunze Stream 6000
Maxijet 1200 (Along the back
Precision Marine Kalk Reactor
Geosreef CA Reactor (Just added yesterday)
Euroreef ES5-3 Skimmer
Ranco Dual Stage temp controller (Heater in sump and a 6-in clip on fan in the canopy)
250W HQI PFO Mini pendant Phoenix 14K
2-95W VHO Actinics
Mag12 return
Tunze Stream 6000
Maxijet 1200 (Along the back
Precision Marine Kalk Reactor
Geosreef CA Reactor (Just added yesterday)
Euroreef ES5-3 Skimmer
Ranco Dual Stage temp controller (Heater in sump and a 6-in clip on fan in the canopy)
JER-Z
New member
i am setting up a 65g BB. pretty much same dims, just 3 inches taller i think...
so far i have this:
Deltec AP600
Tunze 6000 + controller
4 bulb Icecap T5 retrofit kit (Getting a kit for 2 more bulbs driven normally when the URI super actinic T5s come out)
Eheim 1250 for return
70 lbs of Tonga Curing
plus the other small stuff like heaters, top-off, RO/DI etc...
I am not up and running yet, I am moving to a new place in a few weeks, so i am waiting for the move...So as of right now, i can't really comment on how good it will work, however, i think i am off to a good start w/ this hardware
so far i have this:
Deltec AP600
Tunze 6000 + controller
4 bulb Icecap T5 retrofit kit (Getting a kit for 2 more bulbs driven normally when the URI super actinic T5s come out)
Eheim 1250 for return
70 lbs of Tonga Curing
plus the other small stuff like heaters, top-off, RO/DI etc...
I am not up and running yet, I am moving to a new place in a few weeks, so i am waiting for the move...So as of right now, i can't really comment on how good it will work, however, i think i am off to a good start w/ this hardware
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