Restart advice

Lance A. Lot

SLASH Member
I just got home from Belize and I see that my return pump has failed. All fish and coral seem to be ok right now. A lot of water has sat in the sump stagnating for probably around 5 or more days. This water was also very hot. The temp probes controlling the heaters are in a different chamber so the heaters stayed on in the main return chamber. I am currently mixing water to do a large water change because I assume that when I get my back up return pump put in I don't want to use this water that was super heated and stagnating right?
 
I just got home from Belize and I see that my return pump has failed. All fish and coral seem to be ok right now. A lot of water has sat in the sump stagnating for probably around 5 or more days. This water was also very hot. The temp probes controlling the heaters are in a different chamber so the heaters stayed on in the main return chamber. I am currently mixing water to do a large water change because I assume that when I get my back up return pump put in I don't want to use this water that was super heated and stagnating right?
It could have high ammonia if you had some kind of copepod die off if you don't have an ammonia test laying around then yeah I wouldn't use it if you do have an ammonia test and it test is 0 then I wouldn't know what would be wrong with it

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It could have high ammonia if you had some kind of copepod die off if you don't have an ammonia test laying around then yeah I wouldn't use it if you do have an ammonia test and it test is 0 then I wouldn't know what would be wrong with it

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I threw an ammonia alert tag in the sump so I will see what that says tomorrow.

now after throwing that tag in there I see that because there was no flow in the sump that all the drippings from the dosing pump are sitting like snow on the sump floor. Vacuum those out or mix them with the water if the Ammonia is undetectable?
 
If the dosing pumps were still running in the sump I would dump all the water and add fresh. The chemistry in the sump water could be way off. Also depends on if you have any live rock, media, ect that had bacteria growing in the sump to keep water quality good. I assume skimmer was still running so oxygen kill off should not be an issue.
 
Don't chance it. Consider doing a small sump volume water change.
 
Don't chance it. Consider doing a small sump volume water change.

Yeah I mixed up 50 gallons last night and I am changing out the sump water now. I am trying to suck the cloud of stuff from under the drip lines out.

The skimmer was on until wednesday but I turned it off because my tank sitter said the bubbles were blocking her view of anything going on in the sump. I think when the water level changed in the sump that the skimmer went crazy and bubbles were filling the whole sump.
 
Is your pump okay, or totally dead? I use the Fluval SP6 with Italian Askoll motor block and they've been solid for 2 years almost.

https://www.fluvalaquatics.com/us/product/sp6-aquarium-sump-pump/

I'm taking it apart now. I don't know what the issue is but i suspect a bad power supply. Neptune has not responded to the email I sent last Tuesday but I was pretty vague on what the issue was and I said I was out of the country. All I could see on the Fusion screen was that there was a voltage error. Restarting the pump did nothing, restarting the apex did nothing, and now I will see what taking it apart does.
 
If you need a pump I've got a new Fluval SP4 and SP6 if you're desperate.
 
I have a panworld back up for just this situation but I didn't want my tank sitter to try to install it. I think I have a bad power supply. I will see if a store will let me swap or buy one from them.
 
I have a panworld back up for just this situation but I didn't want my tank sitter to try to install it. I think I have a bad power supply. I will see if a store will let me swap or buy one from them.
I know all my DC pumps I can use a standard laptop power supply from an old laptop in a pinch they are typically 19 to 20 volts. the power supply that comes with it is 24 so it may not push as hard but it will work. It does need to be from a real laptop not a netbook so any of the 19 to 20 volt 3 to 5 amp power supplies will work.

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Well, just as suspected, the power supply is bad. I just figured out that the 1link module for the Wav pumps has the same power supply and pin. I swapped them out for a test and it started right up. I sent Neptune an update and I will see what they will do for me.
Water change in process then I will cannibalize the power from the wav to get the cor back up and running. Lesson learned. I will have a back up power supply ordered since I can use it for multiple pieces of my system.
 
i know im late for this but i have to offer (borrow) an inline pump. So you can pump out the water of the sump. doesnt need a shyphon
 
just curious if anyone knows of a place to get a back up like this that wouldn't be $50.
209623_1linkpowersupply_1.jpg
 
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