Return pump help & opinions

frankDtank

New member
I've been doing tons of research on what type of return pump works best for my system. But that seems to be the problem, not every system is entirely the same. I'm building my own refugium sump for my 90g tank and don't want to drill into the glass. So, I want to get a submersible return pump. The one I have been looking at getting is the Sicce Syncra Silent 5.0. With that be too much???
My tank is located in a hallway close to my master bedroom and a living room area. Looking for something quiet and runs cool.

90g display (mix fish and corals)
SCA 302 skimmer
40g breeder refug sump (currently building, which I also need help with)
3 1/2 - 4 ft head height
 
will work just fine for flow, what kind of drain or overflow do you have and what sizes? A durso will not be quiet with that much flow.
 
You want something that will do about 700 to 900 go at the head loss you will have. I use a mag 9.5 on my 75 but I have 2 returns.
 
I have an internal overflow box with a durso pipe 1 1/4iinch. And I also have it split into 2 returns. Should I go with the sicce 4??
 
I have a 100 gal DT and 40 gal sump. Very similar to your set up. I have the Sicce Syncra 4 silent. GREAT PUMP! very quiet.

HOWEVER... when I T'd off my return line for some reactors (GFO/carbon), I realized that the pump wasn't strong enough. When my carbon reactor run on max volume, the return can't handle the drain. I'm planning to upgrade to Sicce Syncra 5. I use Bean Animal style drain.
 
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Ok I also plan on making a T off the return for my refugium. So maybe I should stick to the Sicce 5. Will my Durso be an issue?? Which brings up another subject, it seems that there is a TON of Refugium designs, what truly is a simple bit good design?? I will post my ideas in a few.
 
usually the basic sump design is | Drain | Fuge | Return.

Skimmer, heater, socks, reactors in the drain section...

rocks, chaeto, lights in fuge,

return pump in return..

everything else depends on you.. make sure your sump can handle your tank's overflow in case accidents happen. Also make sure your skimmer sits on the right water level. If the sump is too deep, you may need to design a skimmer stand. your sump water level will depend on the height of those bubble traps

durso is ok. It's a bit loud for me.. sounds like a toilet. Bean Animal is the safest route and also silent!
 
Aha yes SCA recommends the skimmer sit in 6-7" of water. So I have to lower the baffle size to at least 7" in the skimmer section.

As for the Ref/sump set up, are you saying ideal set up is either #1 or #2?? I have also heard that it's better to run cleaner water into the refugium section by adding a T from the return.
 
Aha yes SCA recommends the skimmer sit in 6-7" of water. So I have to lower the baffle size to at least 7" in the skimmer section.

As for the Ref/sump set up, are you saying ideal set up is either #1 or #2?? I have also heard that it's better to run cleaner water into the refugium section by adding a T from the return.

I can't comment on which one is better.. not experienced enough. but the idea of the fuge is to grow pods and chaeto, and mine is working great. Also it's easy for the pods to get sucked back into tank

I like to have more water volume, so I made the baffles 10".. then made a 2" acrylic stand for the skimmer
 
You can use a gate valve off the return if the flow does end up being a bit too much. Reducing it some on the output side won't harm the pump (I did a lot of research on this when I was deciding on my return pump), and going with a bigger pump will also give you the option if you want to run a manifold for media reactors or T-off for the fuge.

I don't run a fuge in my sump (it's a separate tank), but if you do decide to run a bit higher water lever, a skimmer stand is very easy to build out of some egg crate and zip ties... I'm a girl, and I made one in about 15 min = )

Having a little bit higher water level will also you give you more flexibility if you ever decide to change the skimmer. Of course, nothing wrong with the skimmer you've picked out... I'm just a big proponent of flexible design.
 
Ok so I like the idea of having a "T" from my return pump to the refugium. I think it will help me get more flow thru the fug if I do the plumbing just right. And also gives me room toke the baffle taller on just the refugium section. Here are the 2 ideas I have on that. The only difference is making the baffles taller on option #2, and putting my skimmer on a stand to achieve the optimal working height.

Also having my return with a "T" may help with the fact that the return pump I plan on getting may be a little too much for my Durso, by lowering the gph.
 
I like #1 best but you really only need 2 baffles between skimmer and fuge. L-H with bottom exit in high wall. The only thing the walls do is get rid of micro bubbles.
In #2 how are you going to get water out of the last fuge. Water flows to the path of least resistance. Once the fuge is filled, it is going to be very difficult for fuge water to overcome the flow coming from the pump, to reenter the pump chamber. My thought is the fuge chamber will rise and could overflow
 
Aha yes SCA recommends the skimmer sit in 6-7" of water. So I have to lower the baffle size to at least 7" in the skimmer section.

As for the Ref/sump set up, are you saying ideal set up is either #1 or #2?? I have also heard that it's better to run cleaner water into the refugium section by adding a T from the return.
Or you can rise the simmer uo so that the water level will be correct for the skimmer. Use egg crates or panes of glass or acrylic
 
I like #1 best but you really only need 2 baffles between skimmer and fuge. L-H with bottom exit in high wall. The only thing the walls do is get rid of micro bubbles.
In #2 how are you going to get water out of the last fuge. Water flows to the path of least resistance. Once the fuge is filled, it is going to be very difficult for fuge water to overcome the flow coming from the pump, to reenter the pump chamber. My thought is the fuge chamber will rise and could overflow

Are saying to maybe use 2 pieces of glass and leave a small 1/2" gap between them( on the fug baffle)?

I was planning on using a "T" off the return to fill the refugium and have the plumbing hit the wall on the left side of the refugium section. Creating some water movement and ultimately over flowing back into the return section.

Will that not work??
 
I recently upgraded to a Jebao branded DC pump (virtually all of them regardless of branding are identical mechanically) . It's even quieter than my old 1262, and moves a lot of water. Powerful enough to run a manifold for all my reactors, so it also cut my pump electrical use to about 30% of what it was.

I'd strongly suggest you consider running a Herbie drain over a durso + return configuration. IMHO, having an overflow without an emergency drain is begging for major trouble. A Herbie drain is also silent and much higher flow.
 
I'd strongly suggest you consider running a Herbie drain over a durso + return configuration. IMHO, having an overflow without an emergency drain is begging for major trouble. A Herbie drain is also silent and much higher flow.

I have simulated a power outage nervous times by unplugging my return pump and skimmer and because the Durso is high, there isn't much water that gets returned into the sump. I'm new to this addiction so is there another emergency I should be wary of when using a Durso?

Can I convert my Durso into another method? Or do I have to drill out my glass again for another set of bulkheads and lines??
 
I have simulated a power outage nervous times by unplugging my return pump and skimmer and because the Durso is high, there isn't much water that gets returned into the sump. I'm new to this addiction so is there another emergency I should be wary of when using a Durso?

Can I convert my Durso into another method? Or do I have to drill out my glass again for another set of bulkheads and lines??

I don't think you can convert the Durso. The whole point of Herbie/Bean Animal is to have more than just 1 drain opening (hole) for emergency.

You tested your sump for power outage. That's good. However, if a snail or fish or fish poo blocks that Durso, you may have a problem with tank flooding. A Herbie / Bean Animal prevents that with emergency drain holes
 
I considered a Durso at first until I heard it in real life.. I would highly recommend switching to Herbie or BA. It's not very hard to drill more holes or remake the overflow box. Do it before your tank is filled with fish..
 
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