return pump manifold design question...

dflint

New member
I almost have my basement sump finished up. It's filled and cycling with the pump plumbed. Just need to make a return manifold for it and open the valves up.

I have clear PVC flex run up to the display tanks, it's 1 1/2" ID.
My return pump is a posieden T4 at about 10ft of head pressure.
I wanted to split it off into at least two returns. should I reduce it
to 1" or 3/4" at the tee connected to the PVC flex, or keep it 1 1/2"
on both returns?

could I connect locline to a homemade PVC manifold?

anyone wanna post their designs to give me some ideas...

thanks!
 
I would carry the 1 1/2" as long as possible and reduce it down just before the connection to the tank. I ran 1 1/2" up through the floor and into the cabinet. I Tee'd it off at 1 1/2" and ran that right to the returns. I dropped it down to 3/4" at the closest point to the tank.

As far as locline, they have all sorts of fittings that will allow you to tie into PVC. You should have no problem finding a fitting to tie into a PVC manifold. I used it in my frag tank and it was really straightforward.

Here are some drawings of my setup:

Note: On the first drawing, I used 1.5" all the way to the end. I never stepped down to 1" (to lazy to update the drawing)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=138463&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=138878&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

PM me if you have any questions. You're more than welcome to stop by if you'd like to see it in person.
 
where did u get clear flex PVC?
or is it the clear hose that u use for barb fittings?
only reasond i ask is cuz with the barbs u are loosing head right off the bat.
do u have pictures?
 
Also if the pipe is clear don't you get algae build up in the pipe?
but as far as the size goes keep it as large as possible as far as possible then reduce. The only problem i found was getting the drains to drain as fast as the pump can pump. Put some water on the floor the first time i turn the pump on full tilt.
 
I got the clear PVC tube at home depot. it's the braided kind. I have some real thin walled pvc that fits inside the flex stuff to make it rigid where I want to glue it to unions. which is what I did on the pump end. the barb for the pump is 1" ID so I have about an inch or so of 1" which goes into a 1 1/2" fitting/shutoff valve.

here's some pics:
the pump output w/valve
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/dflint/IMG_1076.jpg

the feed line
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/dflint/IMG_1075.jpg

side view
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/dflint/IMG_1074.jpg


the clear tubing is probably only gonna be behind the tank, not under the lights so hopefully it won't get algae buildup on it. I was gonna make the manifold out of regular PVC and locline.
 
keep on eye on that pump cuz overtime the cement will crack & it will start leaking from vivration, that hose is not ment for what u did trust me i know from experience i did the same thing 4 years ago.
 
i put thin walled pvc inside the flex hose to keep it rigid and get a solid glue contact pint all around. I will keep an eye on it though... how did you re-do it so it doesn't leak?
 
i used flex PVC 1.5 up to the sea swirls & front spraybar.

DSC02979.jpg
 
I have a question about this as well..

John.. Is the 3" PVC that you have all the unions hooked up to the manifold? Why do you need that? Is it just an area to hook up more lines as needed? or to control the flow better?
 
Brian, the 3" manifold allows me to divert the flow from the pump to the different things I have running off of it while minimizing head-loss due to friction.
 
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