Return to the Large Tank forum with a 210G Elos
- Thread starter Fliger
- Start date
CAreefer
Premium Member
Ditched the RL bulbs alltogether for the Helios. The 12ks were okay. But short lived on the HQI ballasts. The Helios seem to be holding up well.
One more thing on the lights, and then I'll let it go. I don't feel this would be a bandaid at all. Just a difference in the power source between Italy and the US and the design of the fixture. I think this would have solved Chad's problem too. After looking at the pics again, adding the fuses would be a 5 minute job. You've got the fuses already, just pic up the holders at AutoZone or Kragen. Without the schematic I can't be sure, but it looks like all you'd have to do is use a butt connector between the white wire from the power cord and the black wire from the back of the current fuse holder. Snip the 2 blue wires and put the inline holders on the blue wires. They are not directional so it matters not which way the power flows through the holder or the fuse. 5 butt connectors and 4 snips with the wire cutters to fix the problem. Again, I agree totally with Alessandro's diagnosis. I just wish he had mentioned this to Chad. 2- 250 watt ballasts trying to fire through a single 15 amp fuse ain't going to work. No matter how "slow blow" the fuse.
I do understand your frustration, but heck try it while you're waiting for the E-ballasts. I couldn't agree more, after one or two attempts at troubleshooting, you and Chad both should have had new fixtures. I'll drop the subject now and let the thread get back onto the tank build which is looking great BTW. Love the pics. Keep em coming.
CAReefer
One more thing on the lights, and then I'll let it go. I don't feel this would be a bandaid at all. Just a difference in the power source between Italy and the US and the design of the fixture. I think this would have solved Chad's problem too. After looking at the pics again, adding the fuses would be a 5 minute job. You've got the fuses already, just pic up the holders at AutoZone or Kragen. Without the schematic I can't be sure, but it looks like all you'd have to do is use a butt connector between the white wire from the power cord and the black wire from the back of the current fuse holder. Snip the 2 blue wires and put the inline holders on the blue wires. They are not directional so it matters not which way the power flows through the holder or the fuse. 5 butt connectors and 4 snips with the wire cutters to fix the problem. Again, I agree totally with Alessandro's diagnosis. I just wish he had mentioned this to Chad. 2- 250 watt ballasts trying to fire through a single 15 amp fuse ain't going to work. No matter how "slow blow" the fuse.
I do understand your frustration, but heck try it while you're waiting for the E-ballasts. I couldn't agree more, after one or two attempts at troubleshooting, you and Chad both should have had new fixtures. I'll drop the subject now and let the thread get back onto the tank build which is looking great BTW. Love the pics. Keep em coming.
CAReefer
clownnrnd
New member
Great looking stuff David. Did you see the guy who goes by bluetrigger on zeo? He has a thread going over there called "few pics of my zeo tank" or something like that. He has a pic of a Acan on there that is truely mind blowing. I've never seen so many different colors on a Acan.
OK, I see what Alessandro is saying. Right now both ballast combos are running off the single fuse. He would like you to add another fuse holder (one to fit fuses you can find locally). My ballasts drew a total of 4A's each (250w=3A's and the 70w=1A). I'm not sure what they would draw on startup. That would probably be enough to pop the 10A fuse. 15A I don't know. How many other fixtures have been sold in the states? With the way the wiring is configured you would think everyone they have in the states would have the same problem.
Would it work? I don't know. The way my fixture was configured I had a dedicated fuse (10A) for each of my bulbs. Each bulb/ballast combo drew 4A's. So 4 amps on a 10 amp fuse. funny thing is I only blew fuses on 1 bulb. The other 2 never had a issue. I figured maybe it was a short somewhere in the wiring for that bulb. When I took it apart I never did find anything that looked suspicious.
Honestly, I was a little nervous of changing the ballasts. I liked the idea of being able to switch from 250w > 400w or back w/o issue but honestly since changing to IC's I have not been happier. I love those ballasts and it's nice to know that IC is second to none w/ customer service.
I would think you would be very happy w/ the IC conversion. The fixture is absolutely top notch. I love the reflectors-nice wide spread of light.
If you decide to switch to IC's let me know. I can send as many pics as you would like to help w/ the conversion.
Just so you know, you should have a transformer for your T-5's in between one of the reflectors in the fixture. I would imagine you just wired direct to the mogul sockets bypassing all the transformer stuff.
You may actually be able to install the IC's in the fixture if you were to take out the MH ballasts and the T-5 transformer. That would be very cool. You would'nt even be able to tell you dont any work to it
Chad
OK, I see what Alessandro is saying. Right now both ballast combos are running off the single fuse. He would like you to add another fuse holder (one to fit fuses you can find locally). My ballasts drew a total of 4A's each (250w=3A's and the 70w=1A). I'm not sure what they would draw on startup. That would probably be enough to pop the 10A fuse. 15A I don't know. How many other fixtures have been sold in the states? With the way the wiring is configured you would think everyone they have in the states would have the same problem.
Would it work? I don't know. The way my fixture was configured I had a dedicated fuse (10A) for each of my bulbs. Each bulb/ballast combo drew 4A's. So 4 amps on a 10 amp fuse. funny thing is I only blew fuses on 1 bulb. The other 2 never had a issue. I figured maybe it was a short somewhere in the wiring for that bulb. When I took it apart I never did find anything that looked suspicious.
Honestly, I was a little nervous of changing the ballasts. I liked the idea of being able to switch from 250w > 400w or back w/o issue but honestly since changing to IC's I have not been happier. I love those ballasts and it's nice to know that IC is second to none w/ customer service.
I would think you would be very happy w/ the IC conversion. The fixture is absolutely top notch. I love the reflectors-nice wide spread of light.
If you decide to switch to IC's let me know. I can send as many pics as you would like to help w/ the conversion.
Just so you know, you should have a transformer for your T-5's in between one of the reflectors in the fixture. I would imagine you just wired direct to the mogul sockets bypassing all the transformer stuff.
You may actually be able to install the IC's in the fixture if you were to take out the MH ballasts and the T-5 transformer. That would be very cool. You would'nt even be able to tell you dont any work to it
Chad
Fliger
New member
(copied from another thread where I seem to get no love)
Thanks Chad (everyone). Can someone tell me where the capacitors are and what they look like? I keep hearing to watch out for them but have not been told this by Sfiligoi.
I just can't help but keep thinking .... isn't this exactly why I go with products like Elos, Sfiligoi, H&S, etc? So that I don't have to do these things?
But I'll try it. I just need to know where the capacitors are, and if there is any other risk of injury. I truly thought that as long as the fixture was unplugged, I would not be at any risk of injury.
Thanks,
David
ps - I did see that thread. I just wonder if the vendor (wickedfrags) uses HIS photo or the other way around. There's a guy here on RC with the same photo but he finally got one of his own. Its a niiiice Lord.
pps - If its a "load" issue, wouldn't all 2x400W fixtures have this issue?
Thanks Chad (everyone). Can someone tell me where the capacitors are and what they look like? I keep hearing to watch out for them but have not been told this by Sfiligoi.
I just can't help but keep thinking .... isn't this exactly why I go with products like Elos, Sfiligoi, H&S, etc? So that I don't have to do these things?
But I'll try it. I just need to know where the capacitors are, and if there is any other risk of injury. I truly thought that as long as the fixture was unplugged, I would not be at any risk of injury.
Thanks,
David
ps - I did see that thread. I just wonder if the vendor (wickedfrags) uses HIS photo or the other way around. There's a guy here on RC with the same photo but he finally got one of his own. Its a niiiice Lord.
pps - If its a "load" issue, wouldn't all 2x400W fixtures have this issue?
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Nuuze
New member
Capacitors should be the round cylinder looking things, it may be inside your fixture. The pictures above are the 115v to 220v transformers. Reason why we're saying be careful because they are like batteries and can hold a charge until you ground out the hot leads accidently touching wires together or fingers in between.
Remember back in the boomin car stereo days? The black round overized battery looking things in peoples trunks so their headlights don't dim when the bass goes boom?
Those are very similar. They hold a jolt of charge in reserve to juice equipment steadily. It's the amps that will kill ya not the volts. Volts just make your arm tingly and numb for an hour or so, amps will make your heart literally skip a beat like a heart defibrillator.
Just be careful and wear latex gloves. Oh, and take off your ring.
I was thinking the same...If Sfiligoi claims to be the high end company they are then why don't they resolve your problems already. It's not like you bought it used or anything. Wouldn't this be bad press for them? I mean if it were my company I would of sent you a new one and called the bad one back to see what the heck went wrong so I know which of my employees to scream at. That's the same reason why I buy Sfiligoi, Elos, etc...
At least with Elos, Jesse is less than an hour of driving from me and I know he has parts! J/K Jesse, you're the best!
Remember back in the boomin car stereo days? The black round overized battery looking things in peoples trunks so their headlights don't dim when the bass goes boom?
Those are very similar. They hold a jolt of charge in reserve to juice equipment steadily. It's the amps that will kill ya not the volts. Volts just make your arm tingly and numb for an hour or so, amps will make your heart literally skip a beat like a heart defibrillator.Just be careful and wear latex gloves. Oh, and take off your ring.
I was thinking the same...If Sfiligoi claims to be the high end company they are then why don't they resolve your problems already. It's not like you bought it used or anything. Wouldn't this be bad press for them? I mean if it were my company I would of sent you a new one and called the bad one back to see what the heck went wrong so I know which of my employees to scream at. That's the same reason why I buy Sfiligoi, Elos, etc...
At least with Elos, Jesse is less than an hour of driving from me and I know he has parts!
J/K Jesse, you're the best!
CAreefer
Premium Member
Nothing mind blowing, but much better than it was witht he Phoenix or Hamiltons. Growth has never been an issue in my tank. I really would like to have some pics to back up my claims, but I've reaquascaped twice, and now with the split seam, there just hasn't been time. I'll look through what I have though. The Reeflux 12k wasn't a bad bulb (colorwise) at all. Decent growth as well. It was SE 400 watt version however. The 10k DE 250 watt version did absolutely nothing for me.
CAReefer
boozeman
Member
IMHO at this point it really is shamefull the way Sfiligoi has behaved in this situation. It is suposedly a ''high end'' component for which you payed a premium price for and should have a certain level of company support associated with. I'm sure that the way they have turned a blind eye to this will sour many future potential buyers of Sfiligoi products.... it has surely done so for me 
Fliger
New member
Made some progress on lighting. The T5 ballasts blew the first day (entire ballast) so Reefgeek sent me a new ballast & plug. I completely bypassed the internal ballasts and rewired the ballast remotely. Its easy to do, but extremely tedious and time consuming (and beer consuming).
The light is good. They are run to spec with this ballast so its bright - but not super bright like a 660. Still - the tank is pretty darn bright with just the four T5's.
May I introduce to you ... FRANKENLIGHT
Fuses are still poppin with the MH - AO said he'd send me a modded dual fuse box. I am really hoping it comes soon!
More to come over the next few days ....
The light is good. They are run to spec with this ballast so its bright - but not super bright like a 660. Still - the tank is pretty darn bright with just the four T5's.
May I introduce to you ... FRANKENLIGHT
Fuses are still poppin with the MH - AO said he'd send me a modded dual fuse box. I am really hoping it comes soon!
More to come over the next few days ....
clownnrnd
New member
So I'm guessing that's not the look you were after when you bought this fixture 
:lol: .
I was wondering fliger.... Did you take the fixture out and blow off a couple fuses for the kids on the 4th of July?
That ballast blowing would of been a good way to end the show .
Just kidding buddy, I could'nt resist
Any word on when you will get the reconfigured fuse box?
Kudos to reef geek for taking care of the T-5 ballast.
Chad
:lol: .I was wondering fliger.... Did you take the fixture out and blow off a couple fuses for the kids on the 4th of July?
That ballast blowing would of been a good way to end the show
.Just kidding buddy, I could'nt resist
Any word on when you will get the reconfigured fuse box?
Kudos to reef geek for taking care of the T-5 ballast.
Chad
Dudester
Premium Member
David, your patience and diligence are truly commendable. There's a lot to be said about DIY projects; you can save a bunch of cash, and you have the satisfaction of having created something yourself. But when you buy a fully equipped light pendant, you're not buying a DIY project, you're buying something that should be perfect right out of the box. I love doing things myself, but there's no way on earth that I would have the huevos to take something like that apart and try to repair it. I would have demanded an exchange the moment it didn't work on day 1. I truly hope this works out for you. If you grow tired of it, why don't you consider one of the Elos light fixtures - I think they're bad a** and that would complete the look of your system quite nicely.
On another topic, your coral frags are just beautiful, and I can't wait to see them growing out in your well-lit tank.
On another topic, your coral frags are just beautiful, and I can't wait to see them growing out in your well-lit tank.
clownnrnd
New member
Dudester- I have the 6' version of this fixture and the same problems as David. I asked for a replacement fixture after we had tried a couple different things to correct the problem and I was told Sfigiloi would not send me a new one. seems at some point someone would get a little nervous having all of this faulty equiptment running in peoples homes.
AO eventually ended up buying me 3-400w IC ballasts to switch out my HQI's. During switching ballasts I noticed my T-5 frames are bent pretty bad. To the point where it is hard to take the bulbs out and replace them. I knew the fixture was racked but did'nt dawn on me that this was what was going on. I asked AO if I could get replacement frames w/T-5 mogul sockets and wiring but have'nt heard back from them yet.
I'm sorry but I believe when you pay for something like this there is no way we should be expected to make this kind of repair. I saved money for a long time to get this fixture, you don't know how disapointing it is when you get it and have these kinds of issues.
David- Have you got your reconfigured transformer boxes?
Chad
AO eventually ended up buying me 3-400w IC ballasts to switch out my HQI's. During switching ballasts I noticed my T-5 frames are bent pretty bad. To the point where it is hard to take the bulbs out and replace them. I knew the fixture was racked but did'nt dawn on me that this was what was going on. I asked AO if I could get replacement frames w/T-5 mogul sockets and wiring but have'nt heard back from them yet.
I'm sorry but I believe when you pay for something like this there is no way we should be expected to make this kind of repair. I saved money for a long time to get this fixture, you don't know how disapointing it is when you get it and have these kinds of issues.
David- Have you got your reconfigured transformer boxes?
Chad
You are the MAN!!!
You are the MAN!!!
Just when you think, I am remodeling my house and it sure would be nice to add a new light fixture to the tank and change things a little, and then you read this thread, this is outrageous!!!This is like purchasing a bubbleking and the red dragon pump goes out and RE says throw a sedra 9000 with an adpater kit on it until we figure what is wrong???, dude no WAY!!!, you have way more patience than I have, good luck. The geissmann fixture is looking a lot better for my modern renovation of the house!!!
That really bites
:eek2: :eek2: :eek2:
You are the MAN!!!
Just when you think, I am remodeling my house and it sure would be nice to add a new light fixture to the tank and change things a little, and then you read this thread, this is outrageous!!!This is like purchasing a bubbleking and the red dragon pump goes out and RE says throw a sedra 9000 with an adpater kit on it until we figure what is wrong???, dude no WAY!!!, you have way more patience than I have, good luck. The geissmann fixture is looking a lot better for my modern renovation of the house!!!
That really bites
:eek2: :eek2: :eek2:
