Rhodes19 180 Build

[Rhodes19]

Well, yesterday was fun. I spent most of the day modifying the drain and return in an attempt to quiet the sump down. After about 8 hours and 5 trips to Lowes and a lfs, I finally have an almost finished product. I took Frankie's advice and modified the Herbie style drain but it took longer than I expected. I tied the 2 overflow lines (1") into 1 1/2" lines that met at a T, added a 1 1/2" ball valve (can't find a gate valve anywhere) to the T, and another 1 1/2" pipe into the sump about 4" below the water. I then ran some flex line from the pump side to a horse shoe made from 2 90 deg elbows, into a 1" T and to 2, 3/4 locline. Not the prettiest set up but it works. At one point I thought I had cracked one of the 1" bulkheads and had to run to a lfs to buy one. This time it was threaded. The noise in the sump is quieter than it was before and that was with the ball valve all the way open. I turned it down to reduce flow, got the overflow to a higher level and the sump became a little more quieter. I can't dial it in t where I want it until I get a gate valve but it is working better. Now I just have to fix a leak between the bulkhead and the threaded adapter. I had plumber's tape on it and it leaked. I removed the threaded adapter and added more tape and it leaks less but still leaks. I can't get to it until tomorrow night then I'll add more tape and see it that stops it. I'll take some pictures of it tomorrow when I get my camera batteries recharged.

 

[Rhodes19]

Oh, and I also did a 85 gallon water change. I'll check the parameters tomorrow.

 

[Rhodes19]

I emailed you, but thought I should ask the same thing here in case someone else down the road needs the same question answered. I am about to build a stand for this same size tank. I am following the same design you used for the base of the stand. My tank has the same kind of overflows yours has with 2 holes in each back corner. My question is this:

Did you make the 2x frame the exact dimensions as the tank (plus tank trim) or did you oversize the frame a little as long as the frame of the tank sat square on the top frame? I was wondering if by making the stand the exact size of the tank you had any issue with the bulkheads being too close to the stand frame? I hope I made that clear enough.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Good question. I actually over sized my stand a little bigger than the diameter of the tank. I made the frame a 1/4" longer from right to left and that gave me 1/8" of space on either side. The elevated top trim hides it well. I think I did it more as a precaution to make sure I didn't cut it to short. The front is almost flush to the front edge of the frame but I made the stand wider so I would not run into the problem of getting the bulkheads too close to the frame giving little to no work space. I made the width about an 1" longer so the plastic edging of the tank is sitting close to center. It worked out well. I actually got the idea from some of the other build threads here. I leaned from others mistakes. Heaven knows I make enough of them. LOL HTH. Do you have a build thread for your tank yet? Would love to see what you have done so far.

 

[Rhodes19]

Ok, here are some pics of the new Herbie system.

The stand pipe is 1" at the bottom and opens up to 1 1/2". I put rain gutter guard around it to stop things from going into it. Unfortunately, the zip ties I got from Lowes don't work worth a darn, so I'm going to return the package a try another brand.

Here is the top of the stand pipe.

Bottom of the stand pipe.

The 2 lines coming out of the bulkheads are both drain lines. The 3/4" bulkhead opens to 1" and the 1" bulkhead opens to 1 1/2" near the sump. The return goes from pvc to a flexible 1" tube.

Here is the back of the tank with the return hose terminating into a horse shoe shape HOB return. I made it using 2 1" 90 deg elbows and tied it into a 1" T.

Front view of the T return. The locline is 3/4".

Here is where the 1 1/2" drain lines come to a T and drain into the sump. The 2 old return lines are now emergency back ups in case the main drain lines become blocked. The main drain goes under water about 4-6" and has made the sump quieter without cutting back on the pump. The emergency drain lines are above the water so they will make noise if they get used.

Once I can get a gate valve, I will replace the ball valve. That will give me the ability to fine tune the overflow level.

Well, over all, not the prettiest looking plumbing job but its functional.

 

[AkaSlyGuy]

I noticed you place plywood UNDER your stand, instead of on top of the bottom frame. I like this idea. Gives extra room under the tank, would not create a raised hollow box that could resinate sound, and it seems as though it would keep the bottom frame from bowing any. My stand for my 180 will be sitting on carpet. Any issues you could see with this?

Anything you would change about it? Would you do it again?

Joe

 

[Rhodes19]

Ok. So I picked up 1 1/4" gate valve from a local Ace hardware and played with it a couple of times over the weekend. It worked at getting the water levels to where I wanted them in the overflow box but you could hear the water rushing through it as well as an increase in some bubbles in the sump (not worth doing anything about). Its quieter than no valve on the drain but the current 1 1/2" ball valve is perfectly quiet and makes no bubbles. You can't even hear the water going through it. So for now, I am leaving the 1 1/2" ball valve in (friction fit) until I can find/get a 1 1/2" gate valve.

Also, I do not like the Finnex titanium digital control heater HMD 500 I got. I think its performance is weak compared to my expectations but what really did it is when we loss power. It resets to the factory default of 80 deg and I want my tank at 77. Time to start looking for a controller (which I thought this one had. Ops).

 

[DolphinLVR]

Ok. So I picked up 1 1/4" gate valve from a local Ace hardware and played with it a couple of times over the weekend. It worked at getting the water levels to where I wanted them in the overflow box but you could hear the water rushing through it as well as an increase in some bubbles in the sump (not worth doing anything about). Its quieter than no valve on the drain but the current 1 1/2" ball valve is perfectly quiet and makes no bubbles. You can't even hear the water going through it. So for now, I am leaving the 1 1/2" ball valve in (friction fit) until I can find/get a 1 1/2" gate valve.

Also, I do not like the Finnex titanium digital control heater HMD 500 I got. I think its performance is weak compared to my expectations but what really did it is when we loss power. It resets to the factory default of 80 deg and I want my tank at 77. Time to start looking for a controller (which I thought this one had. Ops).

Look at the Ranco controllers! I have a Dual that I will be using as a primary controller and the use the heaters controller as secondary.

Jeff

 

[Rhodes19]

I noticed you place plywood UNDER your stand, instead of on top of the bottom frame. I like this idea. Gives extra room under the tank, would not create a raised hollow box that could resinate sound, and it seems as though it would keep the bottom frame from bowing any. My stand for my 180 will be sitting on carpet. Any issues you could see with this?

Anything you would change about it? Would you do it again?

Joe

Hi Joe,

The only issue I can see is if you butt it up right against the wall. The back bottom of the stand could rest on the carpet tack strip that holds the carpet in place against the wall and is about 1/4" tall. That would knock your tank out of level. Normally, the tack strip should be right under the molding but that is not always the case. I would check and see where the tack strip is and make sure you don't put your stand on it. Other than that, you should be good to go. HTH.

 

[Rhodes19]

Look at the Ranco controllers! I have a Dual that I will be using as a primary controller and the use the heaters controller as secondary.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Will do.

 

[AkaSlyGuy]

Thanks for your opinion on the plywood bottom. Several people have told me that cross braces were needed from front to back on the bottom frame. I just hated to waste the space if I did not have to.

Joe

 

[hulley]

Lookin real good! Taggin along.

 

[Rhodes19]

Thanks for your opinion on the plywood bottom. Several people have told me that cross braces were needed from front to back on the bottom frame. I just hated to waste the space if I did not have to.

Joe

Hi Joe,

A cross brace from front to back is a good idea. Justs makes sure there is no spreading going on. If you use plywood on the bottom like I did, it will act as a cross brace so you won't have to use a 2x. For the top frame I used the same size 2x as the top frame itself. As far as the design goes, I think the only change I would make is instead of skinning the left and right side with Luan, I would leave it open and put doors on it for better access. Other than that, I'm happy with the out come.

 

[Rhodes19]

Lookin real good! Taggin along.

Thanks hulley. I'm hoping to start putting live stock in there next month if the water parameters are good.

 

[hulley]

I took down my 180 about 1.5yrs ago. My wife and I had the house for sale and "knew" it would would sell, well, we were wrong! I'm missing my little slice of the ocean pretty bad. We are gonna try and sell the house again this spring, if it doesnt sell, I'll probably get the tank up and running again. Big tanks take alot of patience, your doing very well, much better than I.

 

[Rhodes19]

Hi hulley,

I'm sorry to hear about that. Yeah, the market isn't doing all that well. It is really slow down here. A Realtor I know said it is starting to pick up a little but that might have something to do with Boeing opening a plant down here too. Hopefully things will pick up and you will get your house sold. Then you can get your 180 back up and going. I am in the process of setting up a quarantine tank and am going to start moving some of my fish into it from my other 2 tanks. I want to make sure nothing devastating will get into the 180.

 

[DolphinLVR]

coming along great Rhodes! Slow n easy is the way to go thats for sure!

 

[Rhodes19]

coming along great Rhodes! Slow n easy is the way to go thats for sure!

Thanks Dolphin. Now that I am getting close, I'm starting to chomp at the bit. I'm going to see if I can get the quarantine tank going this week if time permits.

 

[Antonais1391]

looking awsome rhodes. makes me exited to do my 180. sadly though itll be a few years cause of school. what kinda lighting you using?? have you got a stocking list?? also what corals you planning on throughing in there??

 

[Rhodes19]

looking awsome rhodes. makes me exited to do my 180. sadly though itll be a few years cause of school. what kinda lighting you using?? have you got a stocking list?? also what corals you planning on throughing in there??

Hi Antonais,

Thanks. My current lighting is a 72" PC light that came with the tank. Its ok for fish but I need something better. I would like to replace them but $$$ is an problem at the moment. I would like to do either a T5 retro kit or go MH. I can the lights I want for good prices but just can't get them yet. For now, I will use the PC and use the T5s I have on my 29 and 10 gallon tanks. I'll post some pics once I do it. Probably post them in the getto rig thread as well.

Here is my fish list:

Currently have:
4 ocellaris
1 royal gramma
1 common fire goby
6 green chromis
1 Six line wrasse

My wife's requirements (happy wife, happy life)
Yellow tang
Blue tang
Anemone with a clownfish

Would like to have:
Diamond sifter goby(s)
Scooter blenny(s)
Mandarin goby(s)
Red fairy wrasse(s)
Sail fin tang
Various shrimp
Some various other wrasses. McCloster was nice.
Clams
CUC

Initially, I was going to have a mixed tank of softies, LPS and SPS but as time has gone by, lots of reading, and preference changes I think I am going with LPS and SPS. The more I see them the more I want them. I can t say the same things for the softies though. However, I do like morphed zoas so I will collect them. I have some nice GSP that I'll put in as well but that will be it for softies.

What do you do for school? Any idea how you want your 180 set up once you can get to it? I've been enjoying setting mine up.

 

[Antonais1391]

im not in school currently but im starting the application process. im going to be studying game art and design. i took a year of after graduation to work and save money, wich has been going good after i got my 55g set up lol. id prabaly what i want to do for my 180g is a SPS dominated system with some Lps and other zoas paly muchrooms. here a wrass suggestion http://www.reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/32-fish-profile- there really interesting fish ive had mine sence christmas and hes a happy guy a tid more agressive then the profile says but could just be my fish :] heres some lights i was looking at as well http://www.marinedepot.com/Captive_..._Kits-Captive_Sun-CP4212-FILTRTRMSEHS-vi.html