Ricky's 120 Stony Coral Garden

I'm surprised that the ATI actinic is throwing out as much par as UVL. I've always been using UVL actinic. Nice update for the new year.
 
Ricky is there any visual difference between the UVL and ATI Actinics? What about compared to VHO actinics?

Will be following the no skimmer action. :)

Yes, the ATI is much brighter and more white looking than the UVL but both make the colors pop.
 
Well I guess it's about that time. My tank is almost 9 years old and I discovered the lower seam is leaking water. I will be tearing down the tank tomorrow and I will either find a new tank or stay out of the hobby.
 
Well I guess it's about that time. My tank is almost 9 years old and I discovered the lower seam is leaking water. I will be tearing down the tank tomorrow and I will either find a new tank or stay out of the hobby.

Wow I've been following your builds for years, and your attention to detail and consistent coral growth really amazes me.

In my opinion it would be a real shame if you left the hobby. We all you know you'll be back so why not use this as an opportunity to try something different. Maybe a nano? a bigger tank? Idk something different! Either way good luck! Sorry to hear about the broken seal.
 
I hope you stay in the hobby; you're very good at this and your setups have been an inspiration for many. Sucks that the tank is leaking though.
 
The tank is coming down tonight. If the corals survive the transfer I will start over. If they die I will call it quits.
 
Everything is in two holding tanks. I will attempt to repair the seals with new silicone. If that does not work then I will look for a replacement tank.
 
Happy 2015, since my last post I have changed out my UVL Super Actinic T5's for ATI Pure Actinic 03. I borrowed a PAR meter and surprisingly the level was higher on the ATI bulb despite The Grim Reefer's findings in 2007. I have also taken the ATI Power Cone 250 I-Series offline because it does not pull out much waste and the frag tank I have running does not utilize a protein skimmer and the nutrient levels are 0 ppm even with daily feedings and fish in the tank. It is very nice not hearing the protein skimmer running anymore. I will keep everyone updated with my results.


The ATI has more PAR because the apogee PAR meter does not measure most of the light from the UVL. The UVL might very well have the same or more PAR than the ATI.
 
Everything is in two holding tanks. I will attempt to repair the seals with new silicone. If that does not work then I will look for a replacement tank.

Ricky, I don't ask this in jest or with sarcasm.. I'm wondering, do you know what you are doing when it come to repairing tanks?
From what I understand, simply adding silicone to the leaking joint is a flood waiting to happen....
Unless, of course, you are planning to dismantle the aquarium and glue the panes back together...
By just adding silicone to the joint, you don't actually strengthen the failing structural integrity of the tank..
 
Ricky, this is the third build of yours I have followed. myself I would buy a new tank. The tank my be the cheapest thing to replace. If you do get out and decide to come back, please post a note here. It has been quite enjoyable following your threads,
Good luck what ever you do.

Marty
 
Ricky, I don't ask this in jest or with sarcasm.. I'm wondering, do you know what you are doing when it come to repairing tanks?
From what I understand, simply adding silicone to the leaking joint is a flood waiting to happen....
Unless, of course, you are planning to dismantle the aquarium and glue the panes back together...
By just adding silicone to the joint, you don't actually strengthen the failing structural integrity of the tank..

+1

I would just pick up a custom tank if at all possible or get an off the shelf tank if the dimensions match your stand.

A repair job is quite involved and possibly a lengthy process unless you've built tanks before etc.
 
Craigslist usually has a lot of good deals cheap! You find where someone dumps a ton of money thinking this is their next new hobby only to find its not for them. I have also read threads here on RC where guys that have had similar situations,... cut themselves some nice frags then sell the colonies for quick cash to invest in their new system. Hope things work out,...good luck !---Rick
 
The ATI has more PAR because the apogee PAR meter does not measure most of the light from the UVL. The UVL might very well have the same or more PAR than the ATI.

Both are actinic bulbs that peak at 420nm, visually the ATI is brighter and the PAR meter shows it has more usable light (400 to 700nm) for corals.
 
Ricky, I don't ask this in jest or with sarcasm.. I'm wondering, do you know what you are doing when it come to repairing tanks?
From what I understand, simply adding silicone to the leaking joint is a flood waiting to happen....
Unless, of course, you are planning to dismantle the aquarium and glue the panes back together...
By just adding silicone to the joint, you don't actually strengthen the failing structural integrity of the tank..

I only have experience with making baffles for a refugium/sump. Do you have experience repairing a tank? I called a rep at Marineland and told him my situation and he said I should be okay with repairing the tank as long as it is first cleaned and dry. He suggested I wait 72 hours before filling it back up. I did notice the tank stand is not perfectly level after 9 years of use which could have caused the stress to the seals. The lower right seal that glues the bottom panel to the right side panel is leaking alone the black trimming. My biggest concern is will I be able to scrape off the old silicone without causing more damage. If I do decide to repair/replace this tank I will either need shims or to build a new stand. At that point I may as well go with a different size tank. Any suggestions?
 
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