Rimless glass build help

[jsjonesrdh]

For uncleof6 or anyone else with professional aquarium building experience-

I am planning a custom rimless build with dimensions around 24" x 20" x 20" using 3/8" glass. I will be using rtv100 series adhesive ( haven't decided on color)

This will be my 1st build but I may consider a smaller custom sump 1st for practice. I have a few questions and most likely more in the future.

1. I have seen photos and recommendations of using corner clamps and others while building an aquarium. I have also seen people build tanks using painters tape only. Given a tank of this size, are parallel clamps on the sides needed? I am concerned with the possibility of squeezing out too much silicone from the seams.

2. To create the inside seam, is it recommended to flatten the inner squeeze- out to create the seam or is a second inner seam a better option?

3. I saw someone post that cleaning the class prior to silicone with acetone should be done cautiously due to acetone residue weakening the silicone adhesion. Is this something to be concerned with?

4. I have most of the clamps I would need from my woodworking exp. if warranted. I have an extremely flat cabinet saw table I plan to complete the build on. My garage is unheated and at what temperatures should I be concerned with regarding the silicone curing properly?

Thanks for the input.
Justin

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

For uncleof6 or anyone else with professional aquarium building experience-

I am planning a custom rimless build with dimensions around 24" x 20" x 20" using 3/8" glass. I will be using rtv100 series adhesive ( haven't decided on color)

This will be my 1st build but I may consider a smaller custom sump 1st for practice. I have a few questions and most likely more in the future.

those are nice dimensions for a first tank, and obviously a great choice of silicone...although i am not a comercial builder i have built a couple tanks...

1. I have seen photos and recommendations of using corner clamps and others while building an aquarium. I have also seen people build tanks using painters tape only. Given a tank of this size, are parallel clamps on the sides needed? I am concerned with the possibility of squeezing out too much silicone from the seams.

corners clamps are pretty much the only way to properly build a tank...it is absolutely necessary for the silicone in the joints not to be disturbed in anyway while it is curing...you dont necessarily want to clamp the glass tight enough to squeeze out the silicone, you just want it clamped so it doesnt move...you want to leave approximately 1-1.5mm of silicone in the joints.

2. To create the inside seam, is it recommended to flatten the inner squeeze- out to create the seam or is a second inner seam a better option?

i prefer to remove the squeeze out and apply a continuous inner bead in one shot after the structural seams have cured for 2 days...( this is particularly more for tank tanks built over a couple days, or for larger tanks...since i only have 2 corner clamps i build all my tanks in pieces over several days.)bar clamps are also a very good idea around the bottom third of the tank...straps or tape cannot properly hold the glass in place...i would tape the inner seams of the tank to prevent the squeeze out from getting all over the glass...remove the tape after the tank have been clamped and the squeeze out is still gooey...once RTV or any silicone for that matter starts to skin over it should not be tooled any further, and it just better left to cure and removed later with and exacto knife if the need arises.

3. I saw someone post that cleaning the class prior to silicone with acetone should be done cautiously due to acetone residue weakening the silicone adhesion. Is this something to be concerned with?

acetone evaporates, and although i wouldnt lick the glass after it is cleaned with it, i am pretty sure there is no significant residue left behind, just leave an appropriate amount of time for the acetone to evaporate ( i often leave it a good hour or so)

4. I have most of the clamps I would need from my woodworking exp. if warranted. I have an extremely flat cabinet saw table I plan to complete the build on. My garage is unheated and at what temperatures should I be concerned with regarding the silicone curing properly?

curing temps will be indicated on the tube, it will need to be above freezing though throughout the curing process...if possible i would do the build in the basement, the smell isnt that bad, and this is a fairly small tank (2 or three tubes of silicone) as for your saw table, perfectly flat is nice, but you also want it level...

 

[uncleof6]

3. I saw someone post that cleaning the class prior to silicone with acetone should be done cautiously due to acetone residue weakening the silicone adhesion. Is this something to be concerned with?

In addition to acetone, just prior to laying down the bead, clean the area with alcohol.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

uncle isnt referring to the bottle of rye you will be drinking while building this tank though...use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) you can get it at any pharmacy

 

[uncleof6]

Would not surprise me, that at some point, someone would try that.......

 

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Ethanol would work just as well, if you have some Ever clear handy

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

silly post after i though about it for a second.

 

[nanolover80]

Ya know .. i like the look of rimless tanks, but it scares the be Jesus out of me .. :| .. makes me think its going to go...BOOM all over the floor.

 

[jsjonesrdh]

Thanks for the replies. I'll post pics when I get started.

 

[jsjonesrdh]

I am currently putting together a cut list for my glass and I am curious how thick of a silicone gap do I need to account for. I will be clamping the lower 3rd as suggested with parallel clamps. I was planning on a 3/8 bead for the 3/8glass. I realize the gap will be a result of bead diameter plus clamping force. My bottom pane of glass will be inside of the 4 sides.

 

[peppie]

1/16''

 

[uncleof6]

I am currently putting together a cut list for my glass and I am curious how thick of a silicone gap do I need to account for. I will be clamping the lower 3rd as suggested with parallel clamps. I was planning on a 3/8 bead for the 3/8glass. I realize the gap will be a result of bead diameter plus clamping force. My bottom pane of glass will be inside of the 4 sides.

Don't know where your info is coming from, but who said clamp the lower third? Corner clamps at the top, and bar clamps upper third and lower third would be more reasonable--if we want to talk thirds. Painters tape is really insufficient, and is internet garbage advice, with some proviso to it. (from your previous post.) How this proceeds is really a question of experience. What I can safely do, is not really what someone with no experience can safely do. Your biggest enemy, however will be time. You have about 5 - 7 minutes before the silicone skins over. Movement after that, and you are done with "this" attempt, and start over.

As peppie said, 1/16" seam allowance, and since it is all metric, not imperial, it is 1.5mm. The glass is metric as well: 1/2" nominal is actually 12mm, and 3/8" nominal is actually 9mm or 10mm (both are considered 3/8".) Make sure your cutter knows what the deal is, or your cuts will be off.

 

[jsjonesrdh]

Thanks guys. I have 2 sets of Bessie parallel clamps that I can use that will clamp a majority of vertical height of the tank. I also will plan on using 4 corner clamps for alignment. I will probably need to use some makeshift supports for the clamps that I use on the upper
1/2 of the tank as I speculate that the force I would need to keep the clamp from sliding may be a bit tighter than I am looking for.

I have read here and multiple locations that the working time with the silicone is only a few minutes so I will be practicing my application on some scrap prior to my attempt. Is it acceptable to make a few MINOR adjustments in alignment after the pieces are together or does it need to be perfect within the 5-7 min estimated. I understand that having the pieces together at least is crucial to bong strength. I don't really anticipate needing too much more than that as I will have all seams taped and in position to application. Although every 1st project seems to throw a few surprises, I am trying to prevent that.

 

[Addict0Reef]

I have a couple of questions for the experienced, thought I could jump in here...

I am planning to build a 6 foot x 30" wide x maximum height rimless tank. What could the max height be with say 15 mm and or 19 mm starfire glass?

When working with 19 mm glass, or any glass pane sufficiently heavy enough, do you need spacers to maintain a consistent gap at the silicone bead between pane members? (similar in purpose as the spacers that ceramic tile installers use for accurate grout like placement)

Thanks for the responses

 

[peppie]

Not sure of the max height of the rimless you are building, But Uncleofsix will be a able to give you the correct info. ( may want to start a new thread ) It will more likely catch his attention, as he has already given info on this thread.

I do know you WILL need to maintain a 1/16'' gap on ALL seams!!

 

[jsjonesrdh]

Not to be rude addict but I don't want this thread being scattered between multiple builds.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a substrate to lay under the tank during construction? I have some 6mil poly. I imagine that it would peel off quite easy from the squeeze out of the bottom panel?

 

[peppie]

Not to be rude addict but I don't want this thread being scattered between multiple builds.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a substrate to lay under the tank during construction? I have some 6mil poly. I imagine that it would peel off quite easy from the squeeze out of the bottom panel?

Its all GOOD info. Maybe you will learn more than you asked for. Hope this doesnt sound rude!!

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

6mil poly is what i use, just be careful though that the squeeze out doesnt get on the poly and then smeared on the side of the tank...

and as for the spacers question. you will need someway to maintain the gap of 1/16th inch...there are little rubber stoppers you can by that are adhesive on one side and work really well...

 

[calbert0]

6mil poly is what i use, just be careful though that the squeeze out doesnt get on the poly and then smeared on the side of the tank...

and as for the spacers question. you will need someway to maintain the gap of 1/16th inch...there are little rubber stoppers you can by that are adhesive on one side and work really well...

And where would one purchase these 1/16'' spacers with adhesive on one side? Do they have a name brand?

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

i am pretty sure you can find them at lowes HD, etc in the hardware section