RO/DI install ?'s

I wouldn't have much problem sweating the copper and soldering pipe as I have done a good bit of brazing and welding. I never thought about the laundry room I could put a "Y" connection and a hose fitting to the washing machine line and run it from there. I will look into that option also.

Thanks for all the suggestions !:beer:
 
You can buy this at the bog box hardware store. It screws inline with your cold water and has a 1/4" outlet on the side.

IMG_4418.jpg
 
I have mine in the basement.. (however the tank is in the basement as well)
Connected to cold water line via saddle valve (I did put a shut off at the RO unit so I can shut off for maint without having to mess with the saddle valve).
RO waste goes in the basement sump pit.

I have a pressure tank for RO drinking (plumbed to 2x fridges for drinking and ice). When filling my Mix tank (Brute) and my ATO topoff resevour, I close the valve to the pressure tank as it outputs higher TDS.

Also great place for the QT.

QTTank.jpg


ROsystem.jpg
 
:lol:

It says it is harnessing the pressure of the waste water to pressurize the tank. And it is generating less waste water because of this. I just worry what it means to put backpressure on the waste water. Wouldn't this cause more of the tap to be forced through the membrane, causing it to be worn out more quickly? To think of it in extreme terms, what if you simply closed off the waste water line? How much restriction on that waste water flow is too much?

You better have 4x the waste water as RO water or you're on the membrane road-of-tears.
 
:lol: Are you a double agent and using RC to communicate spy stuff to someone else in the world? I have no idea what that means...
 
BTW the air gap faucet is a local plumbing code thing. It is not required everywhere.
The Check valve on the membrane housing prevents backup.
 
!!! If I told you in the clear I'd have to kill everyone!

No. The waste? You have to have 4 times the waste water compared to the RO water. You should measure it sometime. Put a measuring cup in your RO stream and time it for 1 minute. Then put the same cup in the stream and time it for 15 seconds. It should be the same or more.

So if they are running some sort of gimmick scheme that in any way reduces this ratio they're going to prematurely clog the membrane.
 
Their reasoning behind the permeate pump does make a little sense.
It is only useful if you are using a bladder storage tank. The tank is pressurized to dispense water faster but that pressure also creates back pressure on the membrane when the ASOV opens.

So the more back pressure on the product line equates to more waste water and less product water.

The pump removes this back pressure.
 
Yeah I really am trying to not use the saddle valve. I would like to run another pipe with a ball valve from the "in" line on my hot water heater with a faucet to hook up the RO/DI unit.
 
Yeah I really am trying to not use the saddle valve. I would like to run another pipe with a ball valve from the "in" line on my hot water heater with a faucet to hook up the RO/DI unit.

Your water heater presumably has a 3/4" NPT male thread sticking out of it. Onto this is screwed one side of a flex hose. You should be able to unscrew this connection. Screw on a reducing TEE. Screw into the top of the TEE another short nipple. Now you have the same thing your water heater had before you started. Screw the flex back onto this new nipple.

On the "reduced" side outlet of the reducing TEE screw in the smallest metal ball valve you can lay hands on. Then connect your RO rig to this ball valve.

Can you do this?
 
Looks like I don't have the threaded male end on my heater and the only flex hose is a gas line. Looks like I will be heading to the Depot for some copper plumbing supplies on Monday.
 
You must not be in Quake Land.

You can certainly replace the pipe heading into your heater with a flex connection.
 
widmer,

In reference to your back up question they may add an extra auto shut off valve in the setup. I sent several email back and fourh trying to figure out the best way to plumb the waste line to my toilet. Basically after talking with AWI I will have two shut valves in series on the incoming water. Whatever fills up first RO conatiner or the back of the toilet will shut off the incoming water. Good point on the air break. I will try and implement something although I am not sure it is required. I have heard multipl times that the toilet tank can be used in an emergency for water.
 
So what??? Every time you want some RO you have to flush the toilet? I don't see a happy result there.. :rolleyes: :lol:.

It's not going to work! Every time you flush the RO will start and the domestic water will fill the tank in about 1 minute and your RO will stop. If you somehow make it so the domestic shuts off, your toilet will take an hour to be re-flushable using only RO waste.

You would need a more complex system.
Store the RO waste.
If stored waste container is full stop RO production.
On a flush if there is RO waste block domestic and fill tank from RO.
Once RO waste is gone allow domestic to fill tank.

Using RO waste to fill your toilet tank is an outstanding use for it. Vastly superior to the blatant waste of running it down the sewer but it's dang difficult.
 
I have the advantage of living alone. I intend to shut the main line off. I just got the used system (100 GPD) and it creates 4 gallons of waste water in about 15 minutes and a gallon of RO/DI water. That is good for about 4 flushes. So about 5 minutes between flushes.

The TDS reads zero coming out, but I wonder if this system is operating properly. A bit of a hi jack, but any comments?
 
My RODI set up is in the basement where I hope to complete a fish room at some point for sump, fuge etc. I'd also like to plumb a separate system to my toilets to use the waste water. Currently I store waste water in several large drums for various uses depending on the season. For the waste water to toilet deal, I'd like to get a separate, fairly large pressure tank and tee into the cold water lines with a combination of shut off & check valves to make switching over from normal to waste on the toilet fairly quick & easy. I guess the tricky part will be transferring the waste from the large collection containers to the secondary pressure tank system. I reckon this can be done with a small booster pump & pressure switch combo. You could even recycle some of the other 'grey' water produced from showering/dishwashing this way, although a screen filter may be required & maintained for the dishwater depending on how 'lumpy' that gets.

Here's my set up in the basement, t'd into the washing machine cold line. Maybe I'm living in the past, but I like my copper piping. I have no problem sweating my own connections with copper fittings. I'm blown away at the price of the relatively simple looking pliers used to install some of the newer plastic pipe! I can buy a lot of solder, fittings & propane for the price of one of those.

You can see I managed to snag some larger JG type fittings to nicely adapt a pressure guage and go from the copper down to the 1/4 inch RODI tubing. I also tweaked the PRV in my house to give me between 82 & 86 psi, so the pressure guage at the input comes in handy. I have a second pressure guage installed at the RO membrane so when the differential pressure between the two gets into the mid 20s, I know it's time to start looking at the pre filters.
RODIConnection.JPG


A different angle showing the waste water collection drums
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The beginnings of my fish room. Note the funky colour of the pre filter in the far right of the photo, overdue for a change!
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I have the advantage of living alone. I intend to shut the main line off. I just got the used system (100 GPD) and it creates 4 gallons of waste water in about 15 minutes and a gallon of RO/DI water. That is good for about 4 flushes. So about 5 minutes between flushes.

The TDS reads zero coming out, but I wonder if this system is operating properly. A bit of a hi jack, but any comments?

Still not following your Fish. If your toilet only needs 1 gallon to flush isn't that going to force your RO back off as soon as one gallon of WW is pumped into the toilet tank? That would mean only one quart of RO was made. Sometimes I need 30 gallons of RO in one session! That would equate to 120 flushes.


Mike31154; Nice valve job.

Knox_Legend; We await your solution.
 
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