RO/DI pressure
- Thread starter Meshmez
- Start date
40psi is usually the minium most RO/DI need to function, at 20PSI (if that is a real reading) you will need a booster pump.
20PSI, you would notice at your faucets that your pressure doesnt look right.
Might check the gauge too. How may GPD is is rated? and how long does it take to fill up a 1G container?
Its a 75gpd unit. I havent measured out 1g. The pressure at the faucet isnt great, but I had hoped for better than this :-/ I was just hoping it was normal to get low reading at first and that once it kinda flushed the system out and started running the pressure increased.
It most likely won't change. Your pure water/waste ratio is going to go up because of the pressure. I would use a booster pump, your ro membrane won't function effeciently at only 20psi.
At 40-45psi I am just cutting it.
aandfsoccr04
Active member
It might change but it definitely won't go higher. Mine has gotten slightly lower in the past month or so and I want to get mine up to at least 50 PSI so a booster pump is unfortunately going to be needed for both of us.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/aquatec-8800-booster-pump-kit.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/aquatec-8800-booster-pump-kit.html
Ugh... this sucks!
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Hi guys. After selling these pumps and the various accessories for years, here's some food for thought.
We've found Aquatec booster pumps to be the cream of the crop.
You can't adjust the pressure on many low quality pumps.
Booster pumps will beat the tar out of a dry pressure gauge very quickly - use a liquid filled gauge. You really have to have a gauge to run a booster pump in order to avoid over pressurizing your system. An Aquatec 8800 for instance can take pressure up around 120 psi.
If you place the pump AFTER the prefilters you won't expose those prefilter housings to the boosted pressure. It is an especially good idea with clear housings.
If you place the pump after the prefilters, or before the entire RODI, place a strainer immediately upstream of the pump.
It you want the pump to turn itself off when flow out of the DI tube is stopped (by a float valve for instance), use a pressure switch (shown below) which clips right into the Aquatec wiring.
If you want the pump to turn off AND stop all flow of water to the RODI when flow out of the DI tube is stopped (by a float valve for instance), use a pressure switch AND shut off solenoid (shown below) which both clip right into the Aquatec wiring.
And lastly, DON'T use a self piercing needle valve to supply water to a booster pump.
If you have any questions - we're happy to help.
Russ
513-312-2343
We've found Aquatec booster pumps to be the cream of the crop.
You can't adjust the pressure on many low quality pumps.
Booster pumps will beat the tar out of a dry pressure gauge very quickly - use a liquid filled gauge. You really have to have a gauge to run a booster pump in order to avoid over pressurizing your system. An Aquatec 8800 for instance can take pressure up around 120 psi.
If you place the pump AFTER the prefilters you won't expose those prefilter housings to the boosted pressure. It is an especially good idea with clear housings.
If you place the pump after the prefilters, or before the entire RODI, place a strainer immediately upstream of the pump.
It you want the pump to turn itself off when flow out of the DI tube is stopped (by a float valve for instance), use a pressure switch (shown below) which clips right into the Aquatec wiring.
If you want the pump to turn off AND stop all flow of water to the RODI when flow out of the DI tube is stopped (by a float valve for instance), use a pressure switch AND shut off solenoid (shown below) which both clip right into the Aquatec wiring.
And lastly, DON'T use a self piercing needle valve to supply water to a booster pump.
If you have any questions - we're happy to help.
Russ
513-312-2343
Similar threads
