RO/DI Units

ct_vol

Reefing On My Mind
Team RC
Just wondering how long most of you all go before replacing your membranes???

I've replaced the carbon and other filters, about a year ago... I'm still only getting about 3 TDS... But its coming out WICKED slow now... Takes like 2 or 3 days to come up with 25 gallons...
 
not sure if all are the same but i think most are good for like some godawful number of gallons . But if you have nasty water im sure it shortens the life. Check your tds that will let you now if it need to be changed
 
I don't test, bought a unit on ebay about 5 years ago....Unit is working faster now than ever....Guess that means something isn't right with it but I am still using....My problem is that it will not shut down after my top off bucket is full....I am going to replace the whole unit soon...They are pretty cheap on ebay..
 
My membranes last a little over a year. but that was when I was supplying Mell with MU water also.
 
acrodave by the way I have been itching to say this...

Mr tebow might have won the big deal but he still didin't beat auburn...AGAIN....Even with Leak you still coulndn't beat them...Must suck to go all the way to the end to know you will always have a loss to the loveliest village on the plains...Ha! (just a joke, I still want some frags soon)....Hard to find SPS folk in knoxville, it was so easy in the ATL a few years ago...
Clay
 
Its ok i can take it. I know fishdoc11,cee are hard core spsers and i belive awcurl and ct_vol are into them as well Chris at the CR is also . sorry i dont know what everyone keeps if i missed your name
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11618900#post11618900 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hesstondc
acrodave by the way I have been itching to say this...

Hard to find SPS folk in knoxville, it was so easy in the ATL a few years ago...
Clay

You should head to Nashville on Saturday:)

SPS are harder to get here but there are a few of us around......probably not the same selection as you will find in larger cities though.......of course we don't have 18 lanes of traffic going through downtown, only one lake that's drying up and rushhour isn't gridlock:)

We are having our first swap here in June so you may be able to find something then.

Chris:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11620084#post11620084 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishdoc11
You should head to Nashville on Saturday:)

I guess you already are.......forgot about that:rolleyes:
 
A year on the carbon and prefilter? What pore size on the prefilter? Sound like you could have a plugged prefilter or sediment leaked through the prefilter and plugged the RO membrane. Can you flush it?

I change prefilter and carbon every 6 months and membrane every 1-2 years depending on the pressure drop through the membrane.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11623891#post11623891 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cee

I change prefilter and carbon every 6 months and membrane every 1-2 years depending on the pressure drop through the membrane.

Ok... I'm due for a full change then... :D

Really I wasn't worried about it because I am still testing out at 3 TDS... Its just I'm not getting the product water I used to... Its drastically dropped just over the past few weeks...

I've had the pre-filter and carbon just about a year... Maybe a month or two less, and the membrane 2 1/2 years... :)
 
I missed the whole point of this thread....luckily I'm in the ETRC forum:D
Yes I change carbon and sediment filters every 6 months as well. Doing that will help preserve your membrane. If you have a newer DI cartridge or one you know isn't worn out and you are still getting 3 TDS your RO membrane is probably suspect. If you have an old DI cartridge relacing it might get you back down to 0 TDS. If it wears out fast your membrane is probably shot. You can also test your water right out of the membrane and I think it should be around 5 - 10 TDS before the DI cartridge.
This should help clear things up as well:)
I got about 3 years out of my first membrane but use a flush kit which I think helps some.....and it was a quality membrane.
Chris
 
Nope, ebay. 1 microns and Matrikx CTOs in bulk at pretty good prices ($50 for 12 if I recall).
 
buckeyefieldsupply has a nice selection RO/DI stuff. I use their bulk DI resin. I also change my sediment/carbon out after 6 months with the RO membrane every few years.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11628404#post11628404 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cee
Yes, I'm a full contributing member again!

Only took a year or so!!! :D Glad you're back in action... Thanks for the link...
 
I have one spare set of cartridges that needs to go in my under-sink / drinking water unit but if you're buying a bulk deal and want someone to take 2 sets off your hands I'm in.

I let my cartridges go for like a year or more with my 300 and no TDS meter. When I got a TDS I also got new cartridges. Realized I'd killed my RO membrane after I replaced the pre filters. I've probably done the same thing under the sink but I'm not so worried about that.

I highly recommend clear DI canisters with the color changing resign. You can see if there's any channeling and when the resign is used up. I use a dual chamber di mounted vertically to avoid channeling. When it was mounted horizontally, I could see channeling at the top of the chamber within weeks.
 
Re: RO/DI Units

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11617959#post11617959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ct_vol
Just wondering how long most of you all go before replacing your membranes???

I've replaced the carbon and other filters, about a year ago... I'm still only getting about 3 TDS... But its coming out WICKED slow now... Takes like 2 or 3 days to come up with 25 gallons...

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin â€"œ remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
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