Ro/di

sdsheeks

New member
I'm interested in an RO/DI. Anywhere around these parts I can get one at a decent price or should I just get one off ebay?

Dave
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6844078#post6844078 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bigbenji
I think ebay is the cheapest I've seen. I don't know if they're all created equally or not.

Me either. Ebay is cheap until you add in the shipping then it goes up over 100 for any decent one. I'm thinking they have to have some around here for that price...Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, somewhere :)

I'll have to do some research to find a decent one for my needs to make sure I don't get crap.

Dave
 
Dwayne , Jeff and I all have similar units form eBay, mine is a Water General 5 stage. I've had mine for a couple years.... I need to get one of the locals to bring hs TDS meter to check it
again...:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6844113#post6844113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hllywd
Dwayne , Jeff and I all have similar units form eBay, mine is a Water General 5 stage. I've had mine for a couple years.... I need to get one of the locals to bring hs TDS meter to check it
again...:D

I saw some TDS meters on ebay for like 10$.

Dave
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6844322#post6844322 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dubbin1
Do a ebay search for filterdirect. They have 6 stage RO/DI units at a really good price.

Zero results....Perhaps they are all gone.

Dave
 
Dave,

You will see a ton of threads on here debating the Ebay units against the Airwaterice.com Typhoon III unit... don't get sucked in...

The Typhoon III is a good unit-- has a 98% rejection RO membrane (DOW Filmtec) (removes 98% of everything) vs 96% for the latest Water General with the GE Desel membrane (this is at 50 PSI where the Filmtec achieves its 98%-- the GE Desel can achieve higher rejection if you can raise the pressure up higher.

I've posted this in several threads but everyone just kind of ignores it but it is a simple fact...

The worse your raw water is, and the more water you use, the better off you are with the Typhoon III... over the long run it will cost less to run because your DI resin will last longer.... but if you don't use a large amount of water and/or your raw water is not that bad... then it might take several years to recoup the added cost of the Typhoon III... if your water is bad and you use alot, you could recoup the extra cost in as little as 6 to 12 months...

the water general one isn't bad, just not as good as the Typhoon III.....

The RO stages job is to clean the water as much as possible before it gets to the DI stage..... the DI stage takes whats left and through an ION exchange removes any remaining dissolved solids...

For instance... my unit (a SPectrapure)

My raw water is 411 PPM TDS (I have well water)
My RO output is 8 ppm (98% reduction)
My DI output is 0 TDS....

If my RO membrane was a 96% rejection (reduction) then my DI resin would last 1/2 as long

If a 90% rejection, then 1/5th as long....

So as you can see the quality of the membrane does matter but like I mentioned above... it can take a while to recoup the cost of the better unit-- it is totally dependent upon how bad your water is and the amount you use... You should still be able to achieve 0 TDS with either unit, just the cost to operate them (replace resin is the main cost) is different.

Hope you found this informational...

Spuds/Bill
 
Very much appreciated. I try not to get sucked into this is better or that is better. I have Findlay city water if anyone wants to give me any information on the raw quality of the water. I've tested it for ammonia, nitrates, po's and it seems to be fine.

Dave
 
hmmm... $13.00 shipping. He has a bunch of them, I study it tomorrow, good prices on replacement filters for the RO/DI system too...
 
I have a filterdirect unit and really like it.

For the money saved I believe that I'll still come out ahead in the long run and when it's time to replace the membrane I can put in a FilmTec at that time.
 
Like I said...its totally dependent upon how bad your water is and the amount you use... I use about 1500 gallons per year...and my RAW water is over 400 ppm

Another variable is the size and orientation of the DI stage-- the vertical mounted ones tend to utilize more of the resin before non 0 TDS gets through... so long term it might make since to add on a vertically mounted DI stage with a refillable DI Canister...gets the cost per refill down to about $10 per refill...

My spectrapure had a vertical DI stage... the replacement DI canisters were about $30... I bought a refillable DI kit with (2 canisters and 5 pounds of resin for about $50) from AWI... this will be enough for 4 refills... 5 pounds of resin costs about $40 by itself....

So anyway, when you get to the point of replacing your DI, if the individual canisters are expensive or you just one that holds more you might want to consider the vertical add on stages....

http://airwaterice.com/category/di_deionization/
 
Findlay water is not really all that bad. Again I forget what I tested it at but it was only around 130 or so.
 
I definately prefer the vertical DI. My RO/DI originally came with a small horizontal DI and I changed it pretty quickly.
 
The question is, how much of the TDS is actually bad stuff? I'd like to see an analysis. Maybe were taking out stuff we're paying to put back in....:eek1:

Dwayne I'll bring a sample of mine tomorrow, I'd like to see how it's holding up...:D
 
Just checked:

Raw Findlay H2O = 180ppm
My RO = 8ppm
My DI = 1-2ppm

This is from my 2 year old $115 Water General 110gpd unit from eBay...:D
 
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