Ro / Di

[RobbyG]

Babylon 5 Qoute

"And so it begins"

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6929824#post6929824 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rick A B
I bought this one and it works fine. I tested the water coming out and it is perfect. Produces about 5 gallons per hour for me. I have had zero problems with it.

~Rick

 

[fareforce]

Why don't we pick this RO/DI apart.. Hmm from what I have learned, It is only a 5 micron filter instead of a 1 micron. The RO unit is to small, and uses the wrong memberane. The DI chamber is to small, and uses a second grade resin.
Need I go on?

See, you guys have taught me well!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6929824#post6929824 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rick A B
I bought this one and it works fine. I tested the water coming out and it is perfect. Produces about 5 gallons per hour for me. I have had zero problems with it.

~Rick

 

[RobbyG]

You are ready young Jedi

 

[Rick A B]

Simmer down fellas, I didn't insult anyones sister. This is a funny concept: If you don't buy the best you're an idiot!

I also drive a Ford. I know you can pick that purchase apart as well: motor too small, will need constant repairs..... I should have gotten the BMW or Ferrari, on and on it goes.

Here is the deal that makes sense to me. I wish to save money where I can. That RO/DI unit cost $69! My water tests perfect with my Salifert kits. NO ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, organic phospates.

I understand it might break prematurally. I understand it is not as good as other units. I took the risk with these things knowingly and so far I am glad I did. It may cost me more in the long run with cartidge replacements but I paid $69 for this thing!

Conclusion again: It works fine for me.

PS> jdieck, very informative post.


~Rick

 

[JimR]

Well said Rick A B

I personaly think Typhoons are a decent unit. BUT, I like my Ebay cheapie just find. I didnt get the $69 one, I got the Dual DI $95 unit. The one with clear Canisters and DI's ( refillable ). FilterDirect has them.

It gets old when certain people always jump in these threads and start bashing the "cheaper" units, instead of just giving positive feedback on the unit they want to recommend. Its almost as if they have to "Prove" thier manhood or something..ROFL

 

[JimR]

Fareforce:

As for your colder water. Buy an extra 25' of water line at Home Depot for $2. Hook it up to you main supply, and place the hose coiled up, into a bucket or tank that is full of water with a heater in it, keeping the water at 78 degree's F. Then the other end hooks up to your RO/DI. Now you have a constant supply of heated water to allow the RO to work better.

 

[fareforce]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6938016#post6938016 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
Fareforce:

As for your colder water. Buy an extra 25' of water line at Home Depot for $2. Hook it up to you main supply, and place the hose coiled up, into a bucket or tank that is full of water with a heater in it, keeping the water at 78 degree's F. Then the other end hooks up to your RO/DI. Now you have a constant supply of heated water to allow the RO to work better.

Out of everything I have learned in this post, this is by far the best!! Why didn't I think of this!! doh!

 

[funloven]

Great Post eveyone! This is exactly the information I have been looking for. WK referred my to a RO/DI FAQ link that I also found very helpful for getting started and now this Thread has topped it off. The RO/DI FAQ says that you really don't want a unit that does more than 25 gpd because as tje GPD rating increases the water purity decreases. I took a peak at the TyphoonIII which has a 75 GPD rating.

What is the opinion on this? :rollface:

 

[fareforce]

75gpd is really where you want to be at

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6938270#post6938270 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by funloven
The RO/DI FAQ says that you really don't want a unit that does more than 25 gpd because as tje GPD rating increases the water purity decreases. I took a peak at the TyphoonIII which has a 75 GPD rating.

What is the opinion on this? :rollface:

All Filmtec membranes up to 75 gpd have the same rejection rate, in other words you get the same purity ut to that range. The 100 gpd has a lower rejection rate so you will get less purity out of the membrane.

Having said that, regardless of the TDS concentration comming out of the membrane, if you use DI cartridge the DI will remove whatever is left so in theory you get the smae purity with any unit size.
The only difference is that if the membrane has lower rejection (Higher TDS in the membrane output) the DI cartridge will have to remove more impurities and because of its fixed removal capacity the DI cartridge will last less than if the input to the DI had lower TDS.

 

[funloven]

Thanks for the help, guys!:rollface:

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6937460#post6937460 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rick A B
Simmer down fellas, I didn't insult anyones sister. This is a funny concept: If you don't buy the best you're an idiotPS>
~Rick

Rick, I got to apologize. It was not my intention to critizise your system or decision.
I just tried to state what I know so whomever buys any RO/DI unit is better informed on what else is out there just to make a more informative decision.
If you noticed my review of the unit is in the second post before we knew you had one as by cooincidence that was the unit fareforce was asking opinions about in the very first post (See the link he posted) and I think he is just repeating what I said in the second post.
In any case I am the first in recomending that unless you are nuts about technology (I know I am) do not buy anything you do not think you need. As a side note I think this issue about RO/DI purity is a bit overstated anyhow. Coral farms can not aford using RO/DI given the waste of water and they do as well with just a basic regenerable DI Cati/Ani system.

By the way Welcome to Reef Central!

 

[PatMayo]

I use the typhoon III and it is a great system. I have had it for a couple of months. I am very happy with the purchase and am extremly glad I bought it. Have changed out the di cartride once since I have had it.

You would not go wrong buying this unit.

Regards,

Pat

 

[RobbyG]

This thread kind of slipped by and I did not see this reply.

The issue you are refering to has already been proven beyond doubt in other threads, so I will not go back to it in detail, but in summary it is not just an issue of buying the best it's an issue of long term Savings and better water quality. The cheaper $69 units cost much more to run over a period of 2-3 years and they also use RO membranes that filter less impurities. The reading on a TDS meter is not the whole story, but I am not going to delve that deeply since a simpe search can reveal pages more of better worded info.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6937460#post6937460 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rick A B
Simmer down fellas, I didn't insult anyones sister. This is a funny concept: If you don't buy the best you're an idiot!

I also drive a Ford. I know you can pick that purchase apart as well: motor too small, will need constant repairs..... I should have gotten the BMW or Ferrari, on and on it goes.

Here is the deal that makes sense to me. I wish to save money where I can. That RO/DI unit cost $69! My water tests perfect with my Salifert kits. NO ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, organic phospates.

I understand it might break prematurally. I understand it is not as good as other units. I took the risk with these things knowingly and so far I am glad I did. It may cost me more in the long run with cartidge replacements but I paid $69 for this thing!

Conclusion again: It works fine for me.

PS> jdieck, very informative post.


~Rick

 

[RobbyG]

FareForce this is actually a very bad idea!
Yes you will have heated water but at a price that will blow your mind! Just think of how much electricity it is going to take to keep a 5 gallon bucket of water heated to 78 deg 24 hours a day in Alaska. The sad part is that the RO unit will not be running most of the time so your heated water will be costing you big money and not doing anything. You would save a lot of money by just buying a unit that can handle the cold or maybe somehow tapping off your hot water heater and mixing the water.

If you do decide to do it your going to need a bucket big enough to hold 25 feet of hose, so about 5 gallon container, you will need to insulate it properly and seal the top, you will need a method to monitor the water level in the bucket so your heater does not run dry. You need a powerhead to circulate the water so that the whole container is heated and not just the Top 5 inches.

For a 5 Gallon bucket to be heated by 27 Deg F it requires a 75 watt heater, In other words if you have the thing in the basement and the Temp in there is 50deg you would need a 75 watt heater to get 5 gallons up to 77deg. I am not even sure how you would calculate it based on water that is in a hose at eg. 30 deg and room temp of say 70 deg, but one thing for sure it wont be cheap and may require an even bigger heater.

You see how much work and money this is going to be.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6938016#post6938016 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
Fareforce:

As for your colder water. Buy an extra 25' of water line at Home Depot for $2. Hook it up to you main supply, and place the hose coiled up, into a bucket or tank that is full of water with a heater in it, keeping the water at 78 degree's F. Then the other end hooks up to your RO/DI. Now you have a constant supply of heated water to allow the RO to work better.

 

[RobbyG]

My Manhood is just fine, what gets old is people telling others how great a product is with simple lines like "It Works Fine For Me" or "Zero TDS is Zero TDS" without telling them all the downsides to saving a Buck now! They also forget to mention that the people they are buying from have no tech support, no working phone numbers and that the unit may be complicated to hook together because it is a box of parts.

Lastly the people who come into these RO threads pushing FilterDirect almost always have a super low post count like "3" and the coincidence of that seems strange to me.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6937965#post6937965 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
It gets old when certain people always jump in these threads and start bashing the "cheaper" units, instead of just giving positive feedback on the unit they want to recommend. Its almost as if they have to "Prove" thier manhood or something..ROFL

 

[funloven]

O.K. I hope everyone is calmed down now. :sad2:

I had my spouse read this post and he was quite impressed with the info. We can't say enough, as newbies to this hobby, how much we appreciate specific threads like this that are informative. We checked out the web link for the Typhoon III and made a purchase today. Can't wait to get it hooked up. We were looking a a Kent Marine and this looks like a better RO/DI unit for less money.

So, thanks again! :rollface:

 

[fareforce]

I have actually decided (well wife has) that we are going to sell the tank so we can move out of state.

But, I am okay with that for now. I am still going to buy the Neptune as we are moving somewhere that has warm water! (yeah)!!

The real reason I am ok with selling my tank.. Look at my sig!! Ohh yeah baby!!!!! 500gals coming my way (hence why I need the Neptune over the Typhoon III!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I soooo can't wait!

BTW for those of you who don't know what the Neptune is.. It ia basically two Typhoon's hooked together!

 

[wdragon4l]

Hello everyone,
I have a new 75 gal tank and am in the market for a RO/DI unit as weel and It sounds like the Typhoon III (75 GPD) is the top choice for the price, however I would like to know if anyone thinks KENT MARINE is a good RO brand??? or is the Typhoon still the way to go?

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6944844#post6944844 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
FareForce this is actually a very bad idea!
.

Actually I might have another bad idea. Put the coil in your sump!
Great chiller for those high heat MH lights, pumps and powerheads.
I have been running my tank for over three years now and I have yet to see the heaters going on but my chiller, once every hour or so!