Ro / Di

Even the "Eskimo" will waste huge amounts of water, if the water isnt heated first. The only difference here is instead of 1 gal per hour from a single RO, customers will get 2 gal per hour with a dual RO.

Dont believe me? Call them and ask. An RO will NOT produce a lot, if the water is too cold to start with, NO MATTER WHICH $200 SYSTEM YOU BUY .
 
I have the Typhoon III which I am happy with. The water here in Seattle is pretty cold. Maybe not like Alaska but cold enough. My unit produces water albeit at a slower rate than it will in the summer. It's typical of any unit.

I have a 90 gallon tank and 2 brute 44 gallon cans and it produces all the water I need and more. Even at the cold tempatures I still get plenty.

Regards,

Pat
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6953202#post6953202 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Then they should state that on there web page, I guess Walter has not got around to it.

Now they have it stated:
We put a different size flow restrictor on these membranes. These new flow restrictors are tuned to the production difference colder water makes.

Now I was under the impression that they are not supposed to increase that flow. If this is possible, then they can up the rate on the normal units and produce even more GPD. And they can't say it can only be used with cold water, because they even state these sell great in Florida.

Something doesnt seem right here, maybe someone who knows RO's well, can explain this to me.
 
Okay, time for me to chime in.. First off..

If you dont live in Alaska you have no clue what our water is like!
Our water during the winter can easily push 30 degrees or lower, and only gets to about 38-40 during the summer.

Now, lets talk about that for a second. Water freezes at 32 degrees right? Yes and no!!! Pure water (H2O) will begin to freeze at 32 degress if standing perfectly still. I don't know about you, but we don't have pure H2O up here. If we did I wouldn't be looking for an RO/DI now would I? Also, I hope to god that my water isn't standing still. This is also why on really cold days you have to leave you water trickling in your faucet so it doesn't freeze.

To prove this point lets look at an example. If you live where there is snow an ice, you will notice this. It can be sunny outside and 15 degrees and the ice and snow by the street or on your house is melting. Yes, I know there are a lot of factors such as the sun's reflection, impurities, risidual heat, etc. but that is my point. There are a lot of different factors.


Next, if you don't know what the cost of electricity is in Alaska, dont try to tell me it wont be that much $$ per month. I am not saying you are very wrong, but it would be approx 7.53 per month. Not the few $$'s you were stating. I am not saying that $7-8 would break the bank as if it did... I am in the wrong hobby!

Waste water is not a problem up here as we don't pay per gallon. We pay a flat fee per month for as much water as we can use. Another thing that a simple search would have told you.

Basically all I am really trying to say, is before you start running your mouth telling people what to do and how to do it... Try a little bit of research..

Now, to clear up a few more things... I am not saying the FD makes bad filters, they are just not the quality that I personally would like in a RO/DI. I give you props for at least taking the initiative to use a RO/DI. That being said, if you are on a very tight budget and that is all you can afford.. Then get it.. Just know that in the long run your operating costs will be higher. At least you are using something other then tap water.

Do I think that air water ice makes a better RO/DI unit? You bet, hands down..

Think of it this way.. If someone offered you a brand new typhoon III or a brand new FD RO/DI.. Which would you take?

P.S. And no we dont live in Igloo's

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6952786#post6952786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
The heater wont run constant = The heater will not be on continuous.
Since we were talking about heaters and Power Heads, = PH
I think you knew what I stated, you just wanted to act ignorant.



So what? I proved the point it shouldn't cost him morth than a couple dollars a month to run it 24/7, not the BUNCH of money you stated.....re-read my post.



Water freezes at 32 degree F. You wont find running ICE coming out of his faucet. ROFL.... Even in Alaska, I dont think the cold water will be much less than 40 degree F.

Re-read what you stated above and then honestly tell me who's giving bad advice and NOT thinking things through....like your 30 degree ( or less ) ice running faucet, your HUGE Cost to run something 70 watts or less for 24/7.

 
One quick quesiton that I have for JimR..

Do you ever have, or ever have a saltwater tank? I was looking at your sig and noticed it said "Current Tanks: 55Gal, 29 GAL, 10 GAL... All fresh water comm."

I am not saying that is bad, I am just corious..
 
We are talking RO/DI's. That I have up and running, so I have personal knowledge on this subject. I bought the Filter Direct system, so I have personal knowledge of thier system.

I am just setting up a SW for the first time, but have been reading and study up for over a year now.

Please do me a favor and call your electric company and ask how much you pay per Kilo-watt-hour. The example I gave was Northern Canada, and they charge almost double what I pay ( 9.8 cents vs. 5.8 cents ). Thier example was $4 a month. You would have to be paying close to 20 cents per kilo-watt-hour to cost that much.

And as for my Sw tank. I JUST received my sump system in the mail , so I will finnaly be setting up my tank. I have been ( piece by piece ) buying what I needed.
 
I just called Anchorage Municiple Light & Power ( 907 ) 279-7671...Your currently paying .094760 per Kilo-watt-hour used. So 9.5 cents per. Thats right inline with the $4 per month figure I posted.

I also called Anchorage Water & Waste ( 907 ) 564-2700...and was told your water temps run 48 degree's to 58 degrees F year round.




Next time you say this to someone:
Basically all I am really trying to say, is before you start running your mouth telling people what to do and how to do it... Try a little bit of research..
Maybe you should heed your own words..ROFL, sorry, just had to say that.





Also, if I was giving the choice for free, I'd pick the Typhoon 3 !!! I never ever said they didnt put out a great system. My whole arguement is a person who needs to save mony, can get by just as well with the Filter Direct system. Sure, it might cost a llittle more in the LONG run. But when your putting together a reef tank piece by piece, and trying to do it as cheaply as possible, then the FD model is better than not buying the $200 system because you cant afford it....Get my drift?

And if your wondering, I get free long distance, so a couple phone calls to Alaska is no big deal...LOL
 
Ok,

According to my last bill (recieved a few days ago) we are paying 11.5 cents per kwh. I used the RC electric calc to figure. The only thing is I put the heater as 24x7 as it will be for top-off use. I dont have the option to use ML&P as they do not provide service in my area of Anchorage, but after hearing what they charge... I wish they did!!!

As for AWWU. When leaving thier plant I am sure it is that temp, but when run through the ground for miles in sub freezing weather it tends to cool down a little bit. According to my thermometer my water is the temp stated. Last night my water was at 33 degrees after running for about 1 min.

So, I guess we are both right.

I am not trying to start a let crush everyone type thread. I was asking for peoples opinion, so I guess that I asked for this. So, since no one is getting along. Maybe the thread should be locked by a mod.

So, here is the deal. If everyone quits bashing everyone else, and we can all have a civalized discussions about RO/DI units I will do nothing. If this continues to be a flame thread, I will request that it be locked by a mod.


So, is everyone going to be nice and behave???


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6961580#post6961580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
I just called Anchorage Municiple Light & Power ( 907 ) 279-7671...Your currently paying .094760 per Kilo-watt-hour used. So 9.5 cents per. Thats right inline with the $4 per month figure I posted.

I also called Anchorage Water & Waste ( 907 ) 564-2700...and was told your water temps run 48 degree's to 58 degrees F year round.




Next time you say this to someone:

Maybe you should heed your own words..ROFL, sorry, just had to say that.





Also, if I was giving the choice for free, I'd pick the Typhoon 3 !!! I never ever said they didnt put out a great system. My whole arguement is a person who needs to save mony, can get by just as well with the Filter Direct system. Sure, it might cost a llittle more in the LONG run. But when your putting together a reef tank piece by piece, and trying to do it as cheaply as possible, then the FD model is better than not buying the $200 system because you cant afford it....Get my drift?

And if your wondering, I get free long distance, so a couple phone calls to Alaska is no big deal...LOL
 
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I wont comment on his electric bill because I have no idea what he would pay, but if I put a 20 Watt powerhead and a 70 watt heater and run that 90 watts at even $5 a month, that is still $60 for the year! Now you can see that any savings he was getting with the FD model and a bucket is quickly being used up.

As for his water Temp, you really are making a crazy statement. Even if his water company puts the water in the pipe at 100 deg it would reach his house at close to or exactly the ambient temperature of the ground outside.

Jim for the most part this has been a civilized argument, which is really odd because most of these spin out of control fast, so we should all be commended.

I think that I finally understand you a little better, I did not realize you where just starting to set up your tank! I will give you 6 months and we should talk again, I bet you will learn what I did, "Don't buy anything but the Best or close to Best" Every single purchase that I tried to skimp on ended up being that one piece that kept breaking or failing.

So your saying "What if I don't have the Money" Well my response is don't buy it till you do! I would say to anybody that if they are going to go cheap they will regret it, if they have $90 saved for an RO unit, just wait till you have $150 saved and buy it then, if it means delaying your Tank setup by 6 months, just wait! There is nothing worst than having your Tank up and running and then have problems occur that requires a Cash out lay to solve. You simply have no choice you just pay up or let the Tank Die. That's a dilemma that can often be avoided by getting high quality items at the start.

Many people who drop out of this hobby are the one's who get frustrated by constant problems and the constant work. Some people say to themselves at the start "I'm not wasting $100 on a RO system, my pipe water is fine" Then 6 months later you see posts "Help hair algae is everywhere", then 6 more months "Equipment 4 Sale".

I understand the economics of those who want to do this on the cheap but I caution against it, the looser is going to be your Fish and Coral. This hobby requires a good amount of cash and is not something to get into if $50 is an issue, I bet most people here have spent over $4,000 setting up their Tanks.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6961580#post6961580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JimR
I just called Anchorage Municiple Light & Power ( 907 ) 279-7671...Your currently paying .094760 per Kilo-watt-hour used. So 9.5 cents per. Thats right inline with the $4 per month figure I posted.

I also called Anchorage Water & Waste ( 907 ) 564-2700...and was told your water temps run 48 degree's to 58 degrees F year round.




Next time you say this to someone:

Maybe you should heed your own words..ROFL, sorry, just had to say that.





Also, if I was giving the choice for free, I'd pick the Typhoon 3 !!! I never ever said they didnt put out a great system. My whole argument is a person who needs to save mony, can get by just as well with the Filter Direct system. Sure, it might cost a llittle more in the LONG run. But when your putting together a reef tank piece by piece, and trying to do it as cheaply as possible, then the FD model is better than not buying the $200 system because you cant afford it....Get my drift?

And if your wondering, I get free long distance, so a couple phone calls to Alaska is no big deal...LOL
 
Farforce my friend you need to look at some of the past RO threads, this one is like a bunch of English Guys Sipping Tea!
Most of these blow up into some serious stuff, I have seen none of that here, you and Jim just had a little sparing match. Ask BeanAnimal or DesertRat what it's like to do the full 10 rounds :D
Where still trying to patch up AZ :) His last one was like Rocky II


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6962007#post6962007 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fareforce
Ok,

If this continues to be a flame thread, I will request that it be locked by a mod.


So, is everyone going to be nice and behave???
 
I'm glad somebody understand me a little more...rofl

I was one of the guys who argued that my tap water would be fine. After all, it's kept my FW friends fine for years ( Nitrates .5, no clorine, PH..cant remember now ). Anyways, it was from reading here and another forum that changed my mind of an RO/DI. Look at my join date ( Nov. 2004 ), and my tank still isnt up and running ROFL...I have done a whole lot of reading.

As for the cost to warm up the water...I still feel this is something needed to be done, unless you have 60lbs or better water pressure. Other wise it's a big waste of water. This is something that was recommended to me by several of the water guru's. I have low pressure 35-40# AND cold water 45F.
 
I have to agree that you do need to buy the "best" gear you can afford. Unfortunately most people do not have the patience to wait until they have the resources. Not all, but most reef tanks take anywhere from $30.00 to $50.00 per gallon investment to be successful and some extreme reefs even more.

It sickens me to see the threads "all my fish are dying" or "help massive algae outbreak" or "This is my stocking list" and it's a list of 15 fish that get "BIG" in a 20 gallon tank, or the classic "I give up".

You can see hundreds of threads like that and some worse practically everyday here on RC.

But alas all the Conscientious Marine Aquarist can do is lead the horse to water. You cannot no matter what you do make the horse drink. And until people are something more than human we will always see these types of threads. Hopefully we can continue to educate and reduce the number.

Off my soapbox now.

Regards,

Pat
 
And if I remember right, the pipes have to be barried 48" deep, to be under the frost line in the colder states. I could be wrong on that figure, but I'm close. The earths temp stays a constant temp, under the frost line. Something like 56F. I'm sure someone here will remember the temp. So the water should stay at that temp, until it comes up into the house. Thats why in the heat of the summer, you usualy get a cooler water by running your faucet open a few minutes. All the warm pipe water gets flushed out and the cooler ground temp water gets pumped out.

Of course, I could be wrong on some of this. Its not something I work with day to day.
 
Man I wish out pipes were only 48" deep.. To be to code up here I believe all natural gas, and water lines have to be 120" (10 feet) below the surface!! I believe our frost line reaches 5 feet or so on cold winters..



So we are all sippin tea then??? lol


Just so you guys knwo the real reason I started this thread, is I am in the planning stages for my 500gal reef!!!! Total water volume after sumps and everything will be a little over 1000 gallons. Hence why I need a good RO/DI...

When you are planning on spending $3000 on a skimmer $300 for a RO/DI isn't much, but at the same time you can see why I am worried about the price..

I dread hearing back from the company who is going to make the tank!
 
PAT
So True PAT It really is tough to see all the posts of people who are in trouble or leaving, so many of them started out with such Joy and Happines and ended up disgruntled and angry. I guess for people like yourself who have done this awhile you can see the problems coming from the very start, you just cant get into this hobby without proper resources and extreme Patience, I would say that Jims slow startup demonstrates he has the Patience but he still needs to make sure he has all good durable stuff. I admire his confidence in the FD system, just hope it does not let him down.

FareForce
500 Gallons, my God!! I Cant wait to see the startup thread! BTW take a look at the Poll I posted http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=801412

Your heart still beating? 500 Gallons x $?? = Holly Cow
If your LFS is run by a woman go out and marry her it might be cheaper :D after all you can divorce her when your tanks setup and you'll still get 250 Gallons out of the settlement :)

BTW
"I dread hearing back from the company who is going to make the tank!"

Why do you dread it? The $$
 
Just heard back from the company.. Not as bad as I thought it would be..

Tank size= 96" long, 36" wide, and 30" tall.. The overflows are on the back side of this, and are 22.8 gaallons each!!


I SOOO CAN'T WAIT!!!!!


This was my request:The dimensions would be 96ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ long x 36ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ wide x 30ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ tall. That would be the main
tank, and it would have 2 - 30ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ long x 10ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ wide x 16ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ deep overflows off the back
with a 18ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ gap between the two. Each overflow would need 4 ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Å“ 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ holes drilled in
it. 2 on each side of the overflow. I would like the front glass to be starfire,
and the back wall to be black.

Here is the answer! I was planning on $7k-$8k..
all edges machine polished
3/4" glass all around
starphire front
tempered back with 2 notches
2 external overflows with 4 holes in each
1/8" black acrylic adhered to inside of back panel, teeth routered where notches are
located
4-1/2" eurobrace with polished edges
shipping to 80501 included, client is responsible for offloading aquarium from trailer
$ 4495.00
 
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