Ro / Di
- Thread starter fareforce
- Start date
If you got the money it's definetly a great filter. 
Robby...it amazes me at how much bad info you pump out. Just like the last RO thread, I proved 3 or 4 of your Ebay Cheapy complaints as false.
A 5 gal bucket will need a 50 watt heater and a small power head. You dont leave it running 24/7. When you need it, you put warm water in it to start, and plug it in. When your done, you un-plug it. So let see, thats maybe 70 watts total? The heater wont run constant, just the PH will, so thats even less electric used. Even if he needed it running 24/7, it sure isnt going to use much electric.
For how much that would cost, look here ( scroll to bottom ):
http://www.city.saskatoon.sk.ca/org/electrical/energy_info.asp
They advise at 9.89 cents per kilowatt hour, a 60 watt bulb running 24/7 would cost about 14 cents a day ( $4.20 a month ). I pay just under 6 cents per KWh, so my cost would almost be 30% less than those figures ( about $2.80 a month, running 24/7 ). And thats running it 24/7, which I wouldn't do to start with.
Using the sump is a great idea also. If you got room, your already running the heater for your tank. My Ro/DI isnt by my sump, so the bucket options works better for me.
I already did the "tapping off the hot water heater " idea. It's not a good idea. Sometimes the hot water will outrate the cold, and you'll get hot spots. Too hot of water will kill a RO membrane. This is something I tried, it's not the route to go.
Heated by 27degree's? I'd bet most homes are at 65 degree's or more. I would bet 10 degree's is going to be closer.
A 5 gal bucket will need a 50 watt heater and a small power head. You dont leave it running 24/7. When you need it, you put warm water in it to start, and plug it in. When your done, you un-plug it. So let see, thats maybe 70 watts total? The heater wont run constant, just the PH will, so thats even less electric used. Even if he needed it running 24/7, it sure isnt going to use much electric.
For how much that would cost, look here ( scroll to bottom ):
http://www.city.saskatoon.sk.ca/org/electrical/energy_info.asp
They advise at 9.89 cents per kilowatt hour, a 60 watt bulb running 24/7 would cost about 14 cents a day ( $4.20 a month ). I pay just under 6 cents per KWh, so my cost would almost be 30% less than those figures ( about $2.80 a month, running 24/7 ). And thats running it 24/7, which I wouldn't do to start with.
Using the sump is a great idea also. If you got room, your already running the heater for your tank. My Ro/DI isnt by my sump, so the bucket options works better for me.
I already did the "tapping off the hot water heater " idea. It's not a good idea. Sometimes the hot water will outrate the cold, and you'll get hot spots. Too hot of water will kill a RO membrane. This is something I tried, it's not the route to go.
Heated by 27degree's? I'd bet most homes are at 65 degree's or more. I would bet 10 degree's is going to be closer.
Cripes...I will tell you one more time...READ THIS...
FilterDirect does have a toll free number for tech support.
The system arrrives completely assembled, not a box of parts.
I have more than 3 post.
What gets old is having to correct you every time you post. Look above, I just corrected 3 of your mis-informed statements...AGAIN. Same ol same ol, in every RO/DI thread you jump into.
FilterDirect does have a toll free number for tech support.
The system arrrives completely assembled, not a box of parts.
I have more than 3 post.
What gets old is having to correct you every time you post. Look above, I just corrected 3 of your mis-informed statements...AGAIN. Same ol same ol, in every RO/DI thread you jump into.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
This is a debate that will continue to go on and on. Unfortunately for those of you who choose to skimp on RO/DI units there really is a difference in quality. This is not a place to try and save money. If you ever have the opportunity to lay units out side by side and compare them I encourage you to do so. I will not go into name calling and bashing but I will never recommend the units some are promoting here as being great. The simple fact is they are not.
Great vendors do not have to misrepresent their products using inflated claims and incorrect math, its plain and simple.
I would seriously recommend 5 vendors who have close ties to the Reef community and sell products constructed with components from recognized manufacturers and backed by people who will be around tomorrow or next year.
www.airwaterice.com
www.buckeyefieldsupply.com
www.purelyh2o.com
www.melevsreef.com
and
www.thewaterguys.biz
All sell what I consider to be great systems based on my 32 years as a state certified water and wastewater treatment professional. I work with water systems for a living and come across all sizes and types of units and would not hesitate to buy form any of these vendors. They are not going to sell you a one size fits all drinking water filter and call it something else or sell you components that are substandard at best.
Great vendors do not have to misrepresent their products using inflated claims and incorrect math, its plain and simple.
I would seriously recommend 5 vendors who have close ties to the Reef community and sell products constructed with components from recognized manufacturers and backed by people who will be around tomorrow or next year.
www.airwaterice.com
www.buckeyefieldsupply.com
www.purelyh2o.com
www.melevsreef.com
and
www.thewaterguys.biz
All sell what I consider to be great systems based on my 32 years as a state certified water and wastewater treatment professional. I work with water systems for a living and come across all sizes and types of units and would not hesitate to buy form any of these vendors. They are not going to sell you a one size fits all drinking water filter and call it something else or sell you components that are substandard at best.
jdieck
New member
To the above list I would include www.spectrapure.com
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Absolutely but they are priced above the others, although for good reason. Spectrapure is the Cadillac if you are so inclined.
RobbyG
Active member
Addressing your points
1) Which 3 or 4 are false? This is news to me please explain?
2) I don't even understand the rest of the dribble you wrote, what is "The heater wont run constant, just the PH will," this makes no sense, what does pH have to do with this?
3) You will need to run it 24/7 if you fill a pressure Tank and have autotop off in the Tank, the RO can turn on at anytime so the water will have to be ready.
4) If you read his post you would realize that he is in Alaska and his pipe water may be near freezing point, so if he even fills a bucket with 85 deg water the hose will have 30 deg or colder water running in it. This would quickly lower the buckets temperature to near 50 deg or below, so the heater will always be trying to compensate for colder water, much colder than his room temperature.
5) Lastly I was referring to your backup buddy "Rick A B" who posted the original picture and only has 3 posts. So stop getting so paranoid
It's people like you that give bad info, you post these quick little ideas and don't think them through, Like "just run a hose in a bucket" No mention of Heater cost, Powerhead cost, Electric Bill, Insulated Containers, Methods of making sure the heater does not run dry. So some one follows this advice to save $80 and ends up with wasted time and having to buy the real thing later.
1) Which 3 or 4 are false? This is news to me please explain?
2) I don't even understand the rest of the dribble you wrote, what is "The heater wont run constant, just the PH will," this makes no sense, what does pH have to do with this?
3) You will need to run it 24/7 if you fill a pressure Tank and have autotop off in the Tank, the RO can turn on at anytime so the water will have to be ready.
4) If you read his post you would realize that he is in Alaska and his pipe water may be near freezing point, so if he even fills a bucket with 85 deg water the hose will have 30 deg or colder water running in it. This would quickly lower the buckets temperature to near 50 deg or below, so the heater will always be trying to compensate for colder water, much colder than his room temperature.
5) Lastly I was referring to your backup buddy "Rick A B" who posted the original picture and only has 3 posts. So stop getting so paranoid
It's people like you that give bad info, you post these quick little ideas and don't think them through, Like "just run a hose in a bucket" No mention of Heater cost, Powerhead cost, Electric Bill, Insulated Containers, Methods of making sure the heater does not run dry. So some one follows this advice to save $80 and ends up with wasted time and having to buy the real thing later.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
I was out of town for a few days.
This subject has been cussed and discussed no less than a million times here and elsewhere and some people will defend their lack of judgement to the ends of the earth rather than admit they made a mistake on what they purchased and move on. There is no getting through, so I choose to not get involved most of the time. If someone has a legitimate question I can help them with I am more than happy to pipe up but otherwise its just bashing and badgering and serves no real purpose.
I try to stay factual and use nationally published data provided by the manufacturers and independent testing labs and not the vendors claims to base my responses on.
This subject has been cussed and discussed no less than a million times here and elsewhere and some people will defend their lack of judgement to the ends of the earth rather than admit they made a mistake on what they purchased and move on. There is no getting through, so I choose to not get involved most of the time. If someone has a legitimate question I can help them with I am more than happy to pipe up but otherwise its just bashing and badgering and serves no real purpose.
I try to stay factual and use nationally published data provided by the manufacturers and independent testing labs and not the vendors claims to base my responses on.
In the last RO/DI debate ( that I was in ), you stated:
1: FilterDirect had no number for customer support.
I posted thier number for you to see. Yet in this thread, you repeated yourself, wrongly, again.
2: You stated they used a cheap plastic base.
I let you know they actually used a steel base.
3: Your claimed they had cheap white filter canisters.
I let you know they shipped my system with the clear canisters.
4: Your claim they had throw away DI canisters.
I let you know that they have re-fillable DI canisters.
There's your 4 items you wrongly stated, with the corrections. You shouldnt have even made those statements, if you didnt know what you were talking about. So who's the one speading false information?
The heater wont run constant = The heater will not be on continuous.
Since we were talking about heaters and Power Heads, = PH
I think you knew what I stated, you just wanted to act ignorant.
So what? I proved the point it shouldn't cost him morth than a couple dollars a month to run it 24/7, not the BUNCH of money you stated.....re-read my post.
Water freezes at 32 degree F. You wont find running ICE coming out of his faucet. ROFL.... Even in Alaska, I dont think the cold water will be much less than 40 degree F.
All you comments were directed to me, no reason I should have thought "1" other wasnt.
Re-read what you stated above and then honestly tell me who's giving bad advice and NOT thinking things through....like your 30 degree ( or less ) ice running faucet, your HUGE Cost to run something 70 watts or less for 24/7.
And for your info, even the Typhoon 2 needs to have warmer water or it will not work properly either. So there is more incorrect info your giving. There has to be some way to pre-heat the water for people in cold climates, period !
It has only been a week or so that they have come out with a double RO to help's with the huge waste from cold water. And then, I'm not too sure using a double RO is really a good idea. I could be wrong, but I read somewhere that you shouldnt force water that has already been rejected by the RO, to be fed into another RO. But, thats just something I read, may not be fact.
RobbyG
Active member
Sad but true, these 3 post FD sales people are just trying to wear out good reefers like yourself, but you should not give up, if anything people like FareForce prove that your teachings are working and given time things will be less confrontational. In the meantime I guess your past students will have to keep going and hopefully new guys will take over soon. It's nice to have you and Aquaman drop in once and awhile, it keeps the Troll population running.
Wait a minute here AZ.
The ONLY thing you or anyone else has proven that the $200 system was better than the $100 Filter Direct system was:
#1: The RO is a little more effiecent ( 98% over 96% ). This will save money yes, over the LIFE of the system. A person who needs to save the extra money now, the Filter Direct system is just fine.
#2: The Larger DI upright canister is better then the dual horisontal(sp?) canisters FD issues. Again, to the guy who wants or needs to save money RIGHT NOW, this is a minimum difference. DI doesnt cost a whole lot, it's pretty cheap. It would take more than a year ( for average water ) to make the costs of the cheaper system equal the more expensive system.
I have seen comments about the better connecters typhoon supplies, but have also read threads here about them leaking also. So in my mind, there isnt much of a difference there. Either type connectors do the job just fine. One might leak, but its a sinple fix.
Both have an RO flush valve, both use clear canisters, both have a metal base, both have toll-free phone support.
Now please prove me wrong other wise, AZ ( Not you robby ).
RobbyG
Active member
1) I called that number and got nobody, so I can only assume it's bogus just like there "email support".
2) My FD filters are in cheap white plastic housing, not clear.
3) MY DI filter is a sealed White Case about 1/4 the size of my AWI unit and there is no way to see the DI let alone change it.
The resin lasted about 3 weeks and then my TDS started to rise.
4) I have no idea what metal base you are tallking about!!
5) Ok so the water would be more like 40 deg. where I am we use metric system so my usage of Fahrenheit is not so accurate.
In any case the water coming into a rubber hose at 40 deg is going to cool the bucket of water very fast, the heater will be running a lot and it is all adding up on his monthly bill, a Bill that he would not have if he got the good stuff at the start. BTW I see no mention with the AWI Eskimo about heating the water.
6) "My Claims where directed to you" Do you have 3 posts? Did you post the picture of the filter direct unit?
Your Parenoid, maybe a bit shell shocked from previous RO discussions, you should skip one of these and let Rick A B take over.
BTW they may not be forcing RO into a second filter, they may be in parallel.
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2) My FD filters are in cheap white plastic housing, not clear.
3) MY DI filter is a sealed White Case about 1/4 the size of my AWI unit and there is no way to see the DI let alone change it.
The resin lasted about 3 weeks and then my TDS started to rise.
4) I have no idea what metal base you are tallking about!!
5) Ok so the water would be more like 40 deg. where I am we use metric system so my usage of Fahrenheit is not so accurate.
In any case the water coming into a rubber hose at 40 deg is going to cool the bucket of water very fast, the heater will be running a lot and it is all adding up on his monthly bill, a Bill that he would not have if he got the good stuff at the start. BTW I see no mention with the AWI Eskimo about heating the water.
6) "My Claims where directed to you" Do you have 3 posts? Did you post the picture of the filter direct unit?
Your Parenoid, maybe a bit shell shocked from previous RO discussions, you should skip one of these and let Rick A B take over.
BTW they may not be forcing RO into a second filter, they may be in parallel.
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