RODI automation.

[DBR_reef]

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If you have an RODI unit you’ve probably forgotten to turn it off. That will result in a flood or a waste of DI resin. Or maybe you forgot to turn it on and ran your ATO dry. An automatic RODI does away with all that, turning on and shutting off automatically, along with performing basic flushing chores. There have been a few smart RODI threads and how to’s, but I thought I would throw one more out there that is perhaps a little simpler, but still gets the job done. And also includes all the programming. If you want an awesome alternative, BeanAnimals is pretty great. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/automated-rodi-water-filtration-system.aspx But for this one all you need is a controller, 3 open outlets, and 3 solenoids to make it happen. We are going to automate flushing the RO membrane, bypassing the DI stage, and producing water.

You will need:
A RODI
3 solenoids (either 12v or 120v) http://www.ebay.com/itm/301593136492

A tee fitting

We will start with a RODI with a properly functioning auto shutoff, as well as a membrane flush. We then replace the flush ball valve with a solenoid- this will be our flush solenoid. After the RO membrane we tee off the product line and attach another solenoid. This will act as a DI bypass, to eliminate TDS creep. We will call this the bypass solenoid. After the tee we place one more solenoid, that allows water to flow to the di. I called this the RODI solenoid. To start water production we want to first flush the membrane, then use the bypass to waste any tds creep, then turn on the RODI.

You will then need to figure out how often and for how long you want your RODI to run. I use about 4 gallons of water for top off and my kalk reactor per day, and I have a 2.5 gallon pressure tank for holding water. (I know that pressure tanks don’t do any favors for RO membrane rejection rates, but I did the calculations, and the difference is negligible- not even 1 tds). So I turn my RODI on twice a day for about an hour, which nearly fills my pressure tank.

There is also a manual mode, where you hit a feed mode button (in this case FeedA), and the RODI unit stays on for a set amount of time- in my case 12 hours. This requires a virtual outlet and a feed mode set to 3 minutes (to allow for flushing times)

My programming looks like this:

RO flush:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 15:00 to 15:01 Then ON
If Time 03:00 to 03:01 Then ON
If FeedA 000 Then ON
Defer 001:00 Then ON


Bypass:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 15:00 to 15:02 Then ON
If Time 03:00 to 03:02 Then ON
If FeedA 000 Then ON
Defer 002:00 Then ON


RODI:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 15:00 to 15:40 Then ON
If Time 03:00 to 03:40 Then ON
If Outlet ROtimer_A4 = ON Then ON
Defer 003:00 Then ON


ROtimer_A4 (virtual outlet):
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If FeedA 000 Then ON
Min Time 720:00 Then OFF

That’s the basics, but you can also add in additional shutoffs from leak detection, float, or pressure switches. Just put the code at the end of your RODI outlet code. I’m using a pressure switch http://www.ebay.com/itm/252790729128

I added the code “If Outlet presshigh_A5 = ON Then OFF” to turn off the RODI if the pressure tripped a pressure switch, which controls a virtual outlet called presshigh_A5.

That’s it, should take about 15 min total- Have fun!

 

[shiftline]

That's for the share. I bought a bunch of solenoids a while back with the intention of doing some arduino based automation one of these days


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[Redman88]

I automated my RODI last year thought I did a thread but looks like I didn't. Here are some pictures of the build

The wire up.

The mounting.

I don't have picture but I did add di. The only problem I have had had been algae build up on the main water line that will some times clog the first solenoid. That ends up just producing list of waste water. Need to run a line inside the house to the RODI tanks.

 

[ReefsandGeeks]

I've though about doing this before, but have always shyed away because I can still see something in the electronics failing and causing the same issues that people who plumb an RODI to their top off get. I think One addition I'd like to add when I eventually try this for myself is a light or alarm telling me to turn the RODI on or off, rather than it happening automatically. I'm thinking, RODI reservoir gets low...warning comes on which turns on red LED light by the tank...I see the light, and go turn a valve or press a button and the system starts up again. I feel I need to be at least a little bit involved to stop a flood from happening.

 

[Redman88]

A light or buzzer can also forgotten. And a flood happen.

 

[shiftline]

Been there done that....multiple times


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[DBR_reef]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xdHVXZQUzmo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[DBR_reef]

I automated my RODI last year thought I did a thread but looks like I didn't.

I don't have picture but I did add di. The only problem I have had had been algae build up on the main water line that will some times clog the first solenoid. That ends up just producing list of waste water. Need to run a line inside the house to the RODI tanks.

Nice looking setup! But how are you getting algae in the line to the RO? are you using clear tubing? Maybe some black tubing would do the job?

 

[n2585722]

I did this with my Archon also. I used 2 float switches and a solenoid. Since the only thing being fed by the RODI at this time is the ATO storage tank. I added the solenoid to the input to the RODI. I also added a float valve to the line to the ATO storage tank incase of a float switch failure. I also have a leak detector on the floor below the RODI. The leak detector is hooked to the Archon also. If for some reason a leak is detected the solenoid, ATO and autowater change pumps are shut off. All are within a few feet of each other so a leak at any will set off the leak detector. It has been running for around 2 years. I have had one failure but it was caught by the leak detector. A hose had poped off the ATO pump. When a leak is detected the Archon will send a email with the alarm name to alert me of the issue.

 

[DBR_reef]

I've though about doing this before, but have always shyed away because I can still see something in the electronics failing and causing the same issues that people who plumb an RODI to their top off get. I think One addition I'd like to add when I eventually try this for myself is a light or alarm telling me to turn the RODI on or off, rather than it happening automatically. I'm thinking, RODI reservoir gets low...warning comes on which turns on red LED light by the tank...I see the light, and go turn a valve or press a button and the system starts up again. I feel I need to be at least a little bit involved to stop a flood from happening.

For me this was a way to cut down on di resin use. And I need to make water daily, because evaporation is high and my storage is small. If you just need to prevent floods I agree- not worth it- to much to go wrong.

 

[Redman88]

Nice looking setup! But how are you getting algae in the line to the RO? are you using clear tubing? Maybe some black tubing would do the job?

Black tubing is short but the water hose is copper colored. Run out side in the sun.

 

[DBR_reef]

Black tubing is short but the water hose is copper colored. Run out side in the sun.

Ah, well you could try some uv blocking paint or split loom wrap over the hose, but it sounds like a new line would be better. RO systems like cold water, so a line in the sun is probably not ideal.

 

[Redman88]

Ah, well you could try some uv blocking paint or split loom wrap over the hose, but it sounds like a new line would be better. RO systems like cold water, so a line in the sun is probably not ideal.

Like I said I need to run it inside the house And out to the insulated room for the RODI storage.

 

[reefling]

same here

same here

That's for the share. I bought a bunch of solenoids a while back with the intention of doing some arduino based automation one of these days


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the arduino stuff about a year ago. 3 solenoids and a pressure thing, if i recall correctly. I also got a job box to put them in. I wanted to make something like that guy on youtube


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03n6-ORe8h0

 

[BlueRoofTang]

Floods can be prevented if a container has a bulkhead in the side near the top and the pipe goes to a drain. My sumps will NEVER overflow, for this reason. ...or unless a 1.5" pvc pipe gets a golf ball past the strainers and clogs them.

 

[reefling]

Floods can be prevented if a container has a bulkhead in the side near the top and the pipe goes to a drain. My sumps will NEVER overflow, for this reason. ...or unless a 1.5" pvc pipe gets a golf ball past the strainers and clogs them.

I think this has more to do with only having the unit on when you need it. you get a TDS dump when it first starts.

this device would flush the system. leave it on for a set amount of time(couple hours?) then, it would turn of off until prompted to start again.