RODI has slowed way down, fast

[SirToppemHat]

I noticed my RO unit has slowed down to almost a stop. I checked my TDS which has been 0 both in and out, it read 5 so i changed my prefilter & carbon which I have been keeping up with the 3 years i've had this unit. Water production was still much different than usual, so I disconnected or bipassed the DI and still no improvement. TDS is now at 1 in and out which is usually undetectable, but my main concern is water production is very slow....

Maybe i'm due for a new membrane?

 

[hershell]

what make and model is it?

 

[SirToppemHat]

It's a KENT 35 GPH

 

[THE ROOK]

Supposedly that is the "tell tale" sign for a membrane change. I would look into a 75gph Filmtec membrane. Should be able to get one for about $40.00. Make sure to get the correct flow restrictor($4.00), too. Should be quite a nice increase in production for you.

 

[SirToppemHat]

Right, I was just reading that this morning, def going to upgrade to a 75 and replace restrictor. Thanks.
The change was pretty drastic, i figured it would be more gradual. hopefully a new membrane is all that's in order.

 

[SirToppemHat]

FYI
Filter guy Jim mentioned the drastic production stop is typical for a used up memebrane.

 

[Amoore311]

Let me hop in here quick oO

How long do membranes typically last? I've been having very low production problems as well.

I have this unit: (Air Water and Ice Typhoon 5 Stage)

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOON/Typhoon_5_stage_RODI_Reefkeeper_75_GPD.html


I have recently (within 3 months) changed out my filters. Air Water and Ice offers a package, which is what I purchased:

T Pack includes the following 10" filters:

*

1) 10 micron sediment filter
*

1) 5 micron Coconut Carbon Black
*

1) one micron Coconut Carbon Black
*

1) Full size vertical color changing DI Cartridge




Water in is 15-17 TDS on my Meter, out is 0 but the production is HORRIBLE. I'm assuming I have the same problem as the OP, however my unit is not even 2 years old. How long should the membranes last?

If my membrane is going bad pre-maturely, what can I do to fix that from happening again?

 

[rguyler]

Under most conditions a membrane should last 2-3 years. Some may get more some less but I usually can get 3 years out of mine. The water going in has something to say about that as well. Softened water will help quite a bit as does the quality of the prefiltration. There are also pH issues as well possibly but I think those might only be extreme cases. I've also heard too that low pressure could impact the life of the membrane although I ran mine for a long time with low pressure.

There are probably different quality membranes out there too so they may not all be equal. I just replaced mine and used a Filmtec as they seem to be the brand of choice for most people.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you have a pressure gauge on your system, and if it is installed in the correct location, you can use it to determine if your prefilters (i.e., all the filters before the membrane) are clogging.

We recommend you avoid a filter configuration like Amoore311 has (above). The idea of successive filters having smaller pore sizes is a good idea, but that only applies to sediment filters. In Amoore's arrangement, you have carbon blocks acting as sediment filters, so they will fill with sediment. You want carbon blocks free of sediment so they can better do what you want them to do - remove chlorine.

Amoore - without a pressure gauge you have no easy way of telling if its the prefilters that are clogged, or the membrane. A pressure gauge add on kit is inexpensive - might want to consider it.

Russ @
Buckeye Field Supply

 

[jimsplace]

What about your incoming water pressure? I get a drop off in production when there is a high water demand in the neighborhood during the summer.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yep - hard to tell w/o a pressure gauge...

 

[Amoore311]

We recommend you avoid a filter configuration like Amoore311 has (above). The idea of successive filters having smaller pore sizes is a good idea, but that only applies to sediment filters. In Amoore's arrangement, you have carbon blocks acting as sediment filters, so they will fill with sediment. You want carbon blocks free of sediment so they can better do what you want them to do - remove chlorine.

What would you recommend? The problem did turn out to be my RO Membrane, I swapped it out for the hell of it and production went right back up to normal.

I just bought what AirWaterIce sell as the replacement filters for the unit. If you guys have a better theory, I'd like to try your configuration from your company once these filters are exhausted.

 

[rguyler]

Jimsplace, my pressure is always low (I have a well) so I bought an Aquatec 8800 booster pump, which kicked my production from maybe 10gpd to the 100gpd rating of my membrane. If you want the name of the place where I purchased it feel free to PM me. BFS might also sell them.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15280465#post15280465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amoore311
What would you recommend? I just bought what AirWaterIce sell as the replacement filters for the unit. If you guys have a better theory, I'd like to try your configuration from your company once these filters are exhausted.

We'd love to help you!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15280497#post15280497 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rguyler
BFS might also sell them.

Yes sir. Aquatec 8800 adjustable pumps. We've not found a better pump.

Russ