RODI replacement filters

AZDesertRat,

From what I understand, TDS meters are conductivity meters. TDS meters use conversion factors to convert microsiemens/cm2 into ppm using the scale that mimics the type of water tested. So it is measuring the total electrical charge of a given water sample. I don't think it differentiates large particles from tiny particles.

I think if my RODI water reads 0 by a TDS meter, I think it's generally good enough for the use in our reef tank. I used to use lab grade DI water for my tank since I am allowed to get as much as I want free of charge. I switched to an RODI filter simply because I was tire of lugging so much water every week. Since then, have I noticed any difference in my corals and fish? No. They are thriving just as well.

My whole purpose of starting this thread is to find a good inexpensive source for my filters. Thank you very much for giving us a good lead and some extra good information.

6Speed -

I ended up purchasing the filters from Filter Direct since they were kind enough to match their prices to PurelyH2O's. Their sediment filter is a 5 micron filter. I don't remember what it was for two carbon block filters, but they may well be 1 micron filters (He might have mentioned it, but I cannot remember now.) On top of it, I am getting DI resin enough for three fillings instead of one filling. I am also getting a clear tube for DI resin to replace my white tube free of charge. I think I've got a pretty good deal from Filter Direct after all.

Tomoko
 
I don't know if anyone has checked this place out or not but I buy a lot of stuff for my RO unit from them because I found they carry most everything and I can get better rated filters and the pricing seems to be cheaper than most out there.

Here is the site:

http://www.wateranywhere.com/

HTH's,
Bill
 
FD does not advertise the micron rating on their carbon blocks so you can bet money they are 10 micron or larger as the others cost more money. As for the DI resin you got enough for 3x6 oz refills. PurelyH2O refills are 24 oz each so you got taken for a ride on both accounts. It pays to shop around and listen to those here on RC who have experience in things like this. Again I would avoid that vendor as much for their deceptive sales techniques as for their inferior products that they try to pass off as being as good as or equal to others that time and agin prove out to be superior.
 
No, I was comparing the prices on PurelyH2O's set that has only one charge of DI resin not a 3 x 6 oz refill bag. FD was actually willing to match the filter by filter on the rating for the same price.

I wonder if I can install a different RO membrane and other filters as long as the dimensions are the same. I don't know if they uses different size flow restrictors or not.

Tomoko
 
Flow restrictor should be the same. All filters are also the same dimensions. I would concentrate more on replacing the DI filter if it were me, the others are going to give you almost the same performance its the DI that really falls short. What Purely calls a single refill is 24 oz of resin vs. FDs 18 oz of resin which they call 3 refills so you get more from Purely. It fills a vertical refillable cartridge which holds 24 oz.
When it comes time to replace the membrane get a 75 GPD Dow but don't worry about it as long as the one you have now is performing well.
 
My membrane lasted 11 months vs. Harry's 6 years. I expected my membrane to last a bit longer when the hardness of my water is only 140 ppm to start with rather than 500. This is a huge difference (unless his button on his Spectrapure RO membrane is faulty.)

Of course I do weekly to biweekly 12 gallon water changes and I need as much every week for top off plus a bit more for drinking water. Harry on the other hand uses 10 gallons (5 gallon for each of his two tanks) a week for his water changes if I recollect correctly. I don't know how much he uses for his top-off, etc., though.

Tomoko
 
AZDesertRat I have to disagree with you.. The TDS between the prefilters and the Ro membrane does start going up when the filters get old.. Infact last time I changed my filters the water after the prefilters tested higher then the Tap water lol.. I'm guessing the carbon starts leaching things into the water over time.. But at anyrate it will start going up when they get fowled.


Tomoko.. Just start keeping an eye on your Prefilters and your Ro membrane should last longer. I've knoticed when the prefilters get fowled they start letting alot more junk through.. I'm guessing thats one of the reason why harry has had such good luck.. He changes his prefilters the second they stop doing there job.. Harry if you want to check that your light is working next time you go to johns take some of your RO water to him and let him check it with his TDS meter..
 
Sorry to hitchhike into your club but I think I may help with your filter replacement issue.

I also have a Water General 6100 RO/DI unit. I replaced my filters ( i got from FD) on 10/11/05. I replaced all of them the sediment, carbon, membrane, and I replaced the in-line carbon (6th stage) with another DI cartage, so I have 2 DI filters.

So I notice the other day that my 100GPD system was only producing about 25GPD. Thinking my pre-filters needed changed I went to Lowe's to install some PSI gages on the input side and after the last carbon filter (3rd stage) to see if they where clogged. I had 70psi going in, and 70psi going out (after the 3rd stage). So that tales me that my membrane is clogged. So I took AZ'z advice and ordered some quality filters from purely H2O. The filters haven't came in yet but I can tell you from first hand the replacement filters from FD are junk.

Using H2O's live chat the lady walked me right through the right filters that I was to need, and since I am going from a 100gpd to a 75gpd system they even through in a new flow restrictor for free.

Also I must apologize to AZ for bashing him in a different thread about the WG filters. You live and learn

You should all listen to AZ, he knows what he's talking about.

Sorry AZ

Dave
 
Judging from the TDS readings I was getting, DI resin is not the one that was failing. (This was somewhat surprising knowing the pretty high CO2 level in Madison water.) Three weeks ago, both RO water and RODI water was reading 0. Since the water pressure dropped slightly about two to three months ago, I knew either my sediment filter or my RO membrane was getting clogged. I should have disconnect a pipe to test the sediment filter (written in the manual), but I had too many things that distracted me.

8Ball -

Have you been replacing your filters every 6 months or so? I know you said somewhere else that you membrane was still fine after one year. I will start replacing my filters more often to stretch the life of my membrane :)

Tomoko
 
Just woundering dose anyone know anything about very large RO Systems? I have one that I am looking at for my greenhouse it is a 2600 GPD with water softener. They tell me it will work better and last longer.
 
The only place I know that has a large RO system near here is Wetlands Edge Environmental Center (http://www.weec.dcs.edu/1WEEChome.htm). You can ask the director there (Marc Slate) about his system and why he got the particular one. I understand that Tennessee Aquarium helped them a lot to set up the place initially.

As you may know, some companies use DI system. It's a hassle to recharge DI resins, but I understand that the running cost is a lot cheaper than an RO system.

Tomoko
 


As you may know, some companies use DI system. It's a hassle to recharge DI resins, but I understand that the running cost is a lot cheaper than an RO system.

Tomoko [/B]
Click to expand...


In Anthony Calfo's book he said that. And I have heard other people say that. But when I call to buy one everone tells me that what I want is a ro system with a di stage. So I have no idea. I so I called spectra pure and they told me the same thing I need both, to get value priced water.

What to do?????
 
Unless you have very clean almost pristine water to begin with a DI only is a PITA to recharge and expensive if you are replacing cartridges instead of recharging. To recharge hazardous chemicals are used and its not worth the risk. DI will not remove some constituents also if they are not positively or negatively charged.
 
DI resins (deionizing resins) removes the charged particles (ions) by ion exchange. We have lab grade DI water produced in a massive amount at work. It's just as clean as my RODI water. The process at work requires absolutely clean water free of metal ions and RO system can produce such water. It's pretty much hydrogen and oxygen molecules (water) and a minuscule amount of sodium ion coming from ion exchange with the type of resins used. We can confirm that there is no heavy metal atoms under scanning electron microscope. We can confirm that it's clean by GC as well. However, it does not remove any bacteria like an RO membrane can, but there should not be bacteria in our chlorinated source water...

Now recharging them is simple, but requires careful handling. Lye is not the worst chemical out there. If handled properly (with goggles and gloves) and carefully (no splashing), you can recharge the resin. However, it's a PITA to have to do it often. I recall hearing about some people getting too small a unit that it requires recharging once a week.

You may want RODI anyways because of the hassle associated with the resin recharging if your water is hard or rich in CO2. Anthony should be able to shed some light on how often he is having to recharge. He has a forum in Marine Depot site and he usually answers questions pretty quickly.

Tomoko
 
Philip -

Aquatic Eco-System has various commercial size RODI systems. airwaterice.com also has a commercial size system as well.

Tomoko
 
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