RODSTAR'S REEF ROOM - 561G Display Tank

Good luck with the move... :)

I remember having to hire 9 people at the corner of Home Depot just to lift my 650 gallon tank into the stand, it was probably the most nerve wracking minute of my life IOI.
 
Good luck with the move... :)

I remember having to hire 9 people at the corner of Home Depot just to lift my 650 gallon tank into the stand, it was probably the most nerve wracking minute of my life IOI.

I know just what your saying i had 8 people that need to lift my 750 up about 12" off saw horses. We were about 2" away from top of stand when the tank started tilting and we started loosing grip. All of a sudden one guy got under the tank to try and lift with his back which tilted the tank more. We finally got it on the stand but i felt sick the rest of the day. Have more help than you think you need as you have to much to loose if something happens!

Best of luck!
 
And it's a no-go today. We did get the tank and stand off the truck, which is a start. But, it turns out that the fixed panel of my sliding patio door is not removable. Who knew?

So, the tank and stand are going to have to live outside (still in the crate), until we get new French doors installed.

Another 3-4 weeks...

Ugh...
 
Yeah, my wife decided we might as well. Because she wants to put a bar in and new couches and it will be a lot easier if we have doors that open fully

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
So i finally read the entire three pages, I'm basically at the same point with my build thread as you. Miracles made my tank as well and I picked it up from there. They have a nice size shop ... Thick glass is so sexy!

Couple questions though, I see you have spent a large amount on various pumps and equipment, however those pumps will cost a fortune to run them all. I have to agree with aquatron, using 1 pump to feed a manifold is much more efficient. Perhaps using a true sine wave pump or controllable DC would be even more efficient offering silient operation, lots of power and low energy when compared to typical centrifugal pumps. I'm using 3 pumps total in my entire system, 2 for closed loop which is way more than i need and one for return.

Your return should only flow as much as your skimmer is rated for, having more flow makes the skimmer less efficient. Therefore the ideal flow through most sumps our size would be about 800 gph. Again this is dictated by your skimmer,

Your sump design is a good choice. Having all inputs at one end is far superior and a better use of space under the tank. Couple things I would look to add might include bubble trap for incoming water from DT, filter socks mounting area (i am working on adding a piece of acrylic to hang filter socks on mine. You don't have to use them often but when your cleaning and making a mess, they clear up the water pretty quickly. The rest of the space can be used for many other items, skimmer section, return section, DSB refugium or a water change chamber.

The fishroom looks very well done, I look forward to seeing it all come together. I noticed you bought the litermeter, to do automatic water changes, I was initially going to do the same but i don't think you will find it as the best use of a decent dosing pump. Send me a msg when you want to get into more detail with this and maybe I can help you. I'm in the middle of building a sweet prototype :)

Cheers
Rob
 
So i finally read the entire three pages, I'm basically at the same point with my build thread as you. Miracles made my tank as well and I picked it up from there. They have a nice size shop ... Thick glass is so sexy!

Thanks! The thing looks awesome...in my backyard! :(

Couple questions though, I see you have spent a large amount on various pumps and equipment, however those pumps will cost a fortune to run them all. I have to agree with aquatron, using 1 pump to feed a manifold is much more efficient. Perhaps using a true sine wave pump or controllable DC would be even more efficient offering silient operation, lots of power and low energy when compared to typical centrifugal pumps. I'm using 3 pumps total in my entire system, 2 for closed loop which is way more than i need and one for return.

Turns out I am not using all of them. Instead of 3 separate Mag 18s I am using 1 Super Dart Gold. So, I only have three pumps on the system (plus Vortechs), 1 Super Dart Gold for returns, 1 Super Dart Gold for flow to other tanks, 1 Iwaki 100MD RLT for the skimmer.

Your return should only flow as much as your skimmer is rated for, having more flow makes the skimmer less efficient. Therefore the ideal flow through most sumps our size would be about 800 gph. Again this is dictated by your skimmer,

Yes, you are right. But my skimmer runs almost 2100 gph according to their specs and the recommended pump. I plan to move water more slowly through the refugium and eel tank.

Your sump design is a good choice. Having all inputs at one end is far superior and a better use of space under the tank. Couple things I would look to add might include bubble trap for incoming water from DT, filter socks mounting area (i am working on adding a piece of acrylic to hang filter socks on mine. You don't have to use them often but when your cleaning and making a mess, they clear up the water pretty quickly. The rest of the space can be used for many other items, skimmer section, return section, DSB refugium or a water change chamber.

I am definitely planning a series of baffles where the drain lines are. I just haven't gotten that far in my build yet. The question is the order of them: starting from the drain, do they go up, down, up or down, up, down (where down means the baffle is flush against the bottom of the tank and up means that water flows under the baffle? ???

The acrylic filter sock holder(s) will be a purchase/build down the road.

The fishroom looks very well done, I look forward to seeing it all come together. I noticed you bought the litermeter, to do automatic water changes, I was initially going to do the same but i don't think you will find it as the best use of a decent dosing pump. Send me a msg when you want to get into more detail with this and maybe I can help you. I'm in the middle of building a sweet prototype :)

Thanks! I owe the fish room look to GlassReef. His build was the inspiration for sure.

Definitely interested to hear about your prototype, but why don't you think I will be happy with the litermeter? I do have a backup system already plumbed where I can do manual water changes. I actually plan to do things manually until I get time to properly set-up and test the litermeter.
 
Litermeters are parastaltic pumps which require maintenance on a semi regular basis to ensure it pumps the same and correctly. Don't get me wrong, the litermeter is a great piece of equipment if maintained. However when you are pulling water out and in in small volumes over long time. The question of efficiency is brought up. There is the potential to pull some of the water you just replaced. When i started design water change devices i initially wanted this method as i felt that the shock on the system was always minimized. I like this method personally however it consumes more salt water to be changed in comparison to pulling a larger volume and then replacing that same volume.

I have a few designs that i think would interest you seeing your current equipment list. Ill send you a pm with a video or something in the next few weeks

There are other ways that are more crude but work well to get the same effect. One other wayhen i would b to ensure you have your fresh salt water warmer then ur system by 2 degrees. When its time to change water, you would pump that into the main DT towards the bottom. This will force the cooler water up over into the overflows and into the sump. Then if you have a bulkhead in the return section which has the lowest water level. Have that bulkhead sit just above your water line and plumb it to the drain. Once you add more water to the display the old cooler water will flow into the sump raising the lowest section water level thus going through the bulkhead to your drain until the level stabilizes.
I know its simple and crude but works

Let me know if you need any help
cheers
Rob
 
Yes however who doesn't run on backup power these days? Rodstar has a 10000 w backup generator wired in to his panel.

Not suggesting this is the way to go by any means. I personally like having a metering reactor instead
 
True, guess I always think of failure points, its my nature...

Anyway I'd love to see what you are planning Padrino, trying to get ideas for my build and one thing I want is an auto water changer, looking at a 450 DT, building the house / tank room now...
 
Just a quick update. The french doors are scheduled to be put in next week. I plan another attempt at getting this tank in the house on the 18th... hopefully.
 
Looking forward to reading through this when I get the time. I wish I had a bigger house for bigger tank like yours.
 
Back
Top