Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

Read this slowly through the week. Thanks to all that put their systems here for us to learn from! I am getting started with a pair of 150 gallon verical tanks from Kentucky Tank that I was able to get picked up by someone driving by and not pay shipping! I have seen it asked a few times but never answered on how to deal what the TDS spike that comes at the start of turning on the water to the RODI system. I have come up with an idea to automate it using a small Plc working with Russ at Buckeye Hydro. I will be using a Iwaki size 55 as that is my skimmer pump and this gives me a backup that I can live without for a couple of days. Build will commence when RODI automation is complete! Quick question, since you guys are turning these every week, long tem who's true Union ball valves are the best value for the money?
 
This is how I deal with TDS creep.


Redman88 said:
So I know I have hard water so a preflush of the RO membrane is a must and something I have been doing. So I want to automate my RO container fill and flush the membrane before I start filling my containers. Most of the auto shutoffs don't flush and the ones that do are for industrial systems so the price is outside of my range. This auto fill/flush system is going to use 5 solenoid valves at least one time delay relay, and a manual override switch. Nothing drawn up yet but I will update. Yes I could do some kind of micro controller but I am not that good at programming and learning what I needed would take longer then I am willing to wait. I also still need to run a dedicated circuit out to my porch where my water change/ RO containers are.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Redman! I have read flushing of the membrane should be done periodically during long runs. I was also thinking of flushing at start up but Russ says doing it at shutdown is much better so that your membrane isn't potentially sitting with scale, etc on it during the down times. I have also been told that any old solenoid will not last on for the DI bypass that will be required to allow the TDS creep effected water to drain. Can you tell me what solenoid you went with here and how you wired your system up?
 
muttley000 said:
Read this slowly through the week. Thanks to all that put their systems here for us to learn from! I am getting started with a pair of 150 gallon verical tanks from Kentucky Tank that I was able to get picked up by someone driving by and not pay shipping! I have seen it asked a few times but never answered on how to deal what the TDS spike that comes at the start of turning on the water to the RODI system. I have come up with an idea to automate it using a small Plc working with Russ at Buckeye Hydro. I will be using a Iwaki size 55 as that is my skimmer pump and this gives me a backup that I can live without for a couple of days. Build will commence when RODI automation is complete! Quick question, since you guys are turning these every week, long tem who's true Union ball valves are the best value for the money?
Click to expand...

I am using Cepex true union Sch80 valves. Pricey but they are easy to adjust with the provided tool. I also have a couple of Hayward true union Sch80 valves that work well so far, but don't have as much history with those. They are much less expensive.
 
WLachnit said:
I am using Cepex true union Sch80 valves. Pricey but they are easy to adjust with the provided tool. I also have a couple of Hayward true union Sch80 valves that work well so far, but don't have as much history with those. They are much less expensive.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the reply!
 
I have a quick question. So I have my AWC station all set up and ready to go. I will be filling new tank in the next couple of days. What is everyone's opinion of when to start the AWC? It will be with a DOS and about 1.5 gals a night. Thanks and here are is a pic of my setup.
65f06d376ef091f3eb5cb0a358a7ed56.jpg
 
Nice set up !
Are you using cycled live rock and live sand?

If so, you can start your AWC right after you do your large water change when your cycled
 
I am using cured/cycled live rock, live sand and 10-20 gal from an established tank. There is one fish and 3 pieces of coral being transferred over.
 
Perfect, you may not even see a cycle, I'd expect it in a day or two to show Nitrate to let you know your cycles complete
My 60 gal redsea I did the same, and it was so quick I missed it

I'd wait a week or two to let everything stabilize before the AWC start
You can add fish etc right at the end of the cycle

I waited 2 days after my cycle, which was cycled in 2 days, and 2 days later I added fish

Good luck !
 
Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.
 
dustinc said:
Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.
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I had to have mine shipped to me from PA. But I think tractor supply has some 35 gallons and under.
 
Mixing station

Mixing station

In progress. Plumbing under slab going to the sump
 

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dustinc said:
Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.
Click to expand...

You can often find food grade plastic barrels on Craigslist for a good price.
 
My station is fairly simple. I've used what's in the below picture for the past two years. I've recently changed the bottom SW 25g container to black one that is 55g. Clear/white lets too much light in. When I had a MH light on in the same room I started to get some algae growth. Not good. The 25g SW container will be used for ATO water without kalk that I'll use for my frag tank. I've found that using kalk dosed ATO water in a 25g open top, high evaporation, frag tank doses way too much kalk. My RODI unit is a 5 stage Spectrapure. I use a pressure pump as my water is from a well and relatively low pressure, around 50-60 psi.

The top container is 45g and used for kalk dosed RODI water. I do not auto start my RODI filtration. I like to do it in large controlled sessions to help elongate the filter use. Because I put kalk in my ATO container I do not pour water from the top container to the bottom. That was my original intention before I began using kalk. I simply move the RODI output tube from one container to the other when filtering water for storage and use.

I have primarily use Spectrapure, however I gave Avast's ATO setup a shot. I was disappointed as the water needs to drop about an inch before it fills. Avast did replace a pressure tube once, and they had to replace the insides of the pump because of failure. It still isn't as good as the Spectrapure for a similar design. I had been using the Litermeter 3 for my AWC on my 120g, but bought a Genesis Renew AWC for my 260g.

waterstation.jpg
 
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