sanjay overburn

[Kip]

i ran 175saki14s before i got 175Ush14s.... the saki's had a grn tint to them to my eye.

also... has it been mentioned that the nepturion 14k is the same as the ushio 14k (aqualite)

 

[cashman95]

Ya I put my Iwasaki's in a friend of mines tank for a day and they had a green tint in his tank as well, but the same bulbs in my tank are perfectly 15K. It must have had something to do with the ballast. I am using ARO electronic and he had cap and coil.

 

[Kip]

i ran mine saki14s on ARO too (or saki 15 or whatever you call em)

 

[nyvp]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9970623#post9970623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by waynesworld
I would go with the 400 but what I was saying for the atinic is to light it when the 400s are not on I wouldn't think you would need 8 to get coverage just to look at the tank but I will find out soon as that is what I will be doing on my large one it is 12' long 3' wide and just under 3' deep. I want to view this tank at least 15 hours of the day but not to run the 400s the whole time.

Looking at par #'s and wattage we may be better off going with 250/w xm10's and actinics to get more par and a lower wattage usage. then 400's

 

[cham]

My only beef with the xm 10k's are the yellow. It looked pretty bad in my tank.

 

[nyvp]

what were you using for actinics?

 

[cham]

Two 48" URI 110w Super Actinic R VHO's

 

[nyvp]

and even with those you thought the tank looked yellow? I was thinking of using one of those on each side of my tank 3 sided peninsula and 4 - 24" going across the short way

14k hamilton 250 in LUM III atm. LOve the color

 

[cham]

Yeah, after a few months I sold them to get 20k's. Those turned out way too blue and the PAR was awful.

So I now have the Iwasaki 15k's.

Three sets of MH bulbs in 6 months sucks.

 

[cham]

Holy jeez. I just saw the pic of your tank.

Wow.

Yeah, its going to be a tough choice for ya. Maybe try ordering one bulb and see what you think of it. I certianly thought it was yellow but you may have a completely different experience and taste.

 

[nyvp]

goto love this hobby. Do you think adding the extra 4-24" vho actinics ( going across/between each refector) would change the color? Its hard to beat the par vs wattage on those 250/w xm10k( with pfo HQi its 185)

 

[JB NY]

I've seen the Hammy 14K as well as the helios 20K in person. I like the look of the helios the best. It's a really nice color blue.

Personaly I like 10K lamps for my tank. But If someone likes blue lamps, I do really like the look of the helios 20K.

 

[cham]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9973609#post9973609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nyvp
goto love this hobby. Do you think adding the extra 4-24" ( going across/between each refector) actinics would change the color? Its hard to beat the par on those 250/w xm/10k

Yes, adding the actinics will help, but you may be left with the yellow hue.

The par on the 250w 10k is nice, but its actually a little less than my 175w 15k . But changing out lighting for a color spectrum isn't very smart either. Big $$$

I dunno boss. Maybe looking into some of the T5 actinics will help you. They can give your PAR another shot in the arm too.

Here is a great thread on T5 lamp readings.http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=918935

 

[nyvp]

so you think the T5's 59w overdriven to 80 W vs Vho 110 w would have more brightness ?

 

[Sparkss]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9973609#post9973609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nyvp
goto love this hobby. Do you think adding the extra 4-24" vho actinics ( going across/between each refector) would change the color? Its hard to beat the par vs wattage on those 250/w xm10k( with pfo HQi its 185)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9973632#post9973632 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cham
The par on the 250w 10k is nice, but its actually a little less than my 175w 15k .

Cham
Are you trying to say that the iwasaki 15k's have better PAR than the XM 10ks ? Last I checked the PPFD on your bulbs were in the 80s (around 85 IIRC), that is over 100 PPFD below the XM 10ks. Maybe I am just reading your post wrong ? Which 10K bulb were you referring to ?

 

[nyvp]

from sajays site the par on a 175 is 71-89 for that bulb and on xm 250 it's 115 - 180's depending on ballast

 

[cham]

Sorry guys, central FL has been not able to access reef central for the last 3 days.

Sparkss,
Yes you read my thread correctly. Apparently in my haste I made a mistake somewhere along the way. The XM 10k does have 115 PPFD and the Iwaski 175w 15k has 86. So the XM does have 29 PPFD higher.

My mistake.

Nyvp,
Yes, IMHO the overdriven T5 will give you quite a bit more punch than the VHO's will and will use less power doing it. I just switched out a giesmann 11k for an ATI blue plus and this bulb is awesome.

It is VERY blue and has the same or more PAR than the other mfg's mid day lamp.

Very cool lamp that grimreefer recommended to me.

 

[Mahlhavoc]

Sparkss,

How do you like the look and growth on the 400 watt BLVs? Do you need actinics to blue it up a bit? I made a mistake and purchased the XM 15k and the par on them is not very good (E Ballast XMs are 75 and the BLVs are 140) though the color is very nice. What are your thoughts and where did you purchase them from?

 

[mano1192]

just switched from the reeflux 15k, really bad par, to the XM 10k and it does take a while to adjust to the whiter look but now I really like it! Cant beat the growth... without going to a yellow 6.5k.

 

[JB NY]

The XM10K is not a yellow bulb. Put a white piece of paper up and look at it in the light of the XM10K, it will look white. It is your tank water that is making the bulb look yellow.