SC Aquariums Owners Thread

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I was on vacation for about 3 weeks. I had a house sitter but instead of relying on her abilities, I used my Reef Angel to monitor my tank. Two automatic feeders provided the food. My major issue was the ATO. Never make last minute changes to the code. ATO did not want to work. I was able to manually turn on the ATO pump from Germany whenever it was below 25%.
10 gal was enough for about 18 days. No major issues in the tank it seems like my wandering RBTA found a new location.
 
SCA requested photos as proof and quickly accepted to refund me for the stand…however, I'm now negotiating with them for a fair amount.

Great customer service. My warranty claim was settled last week, and I was fully refunded for the damaged cabinet. As stated, SCA's customer service is great…only drawback was I could only contact them via email…while a bit frustrating, I do think documenting claim related issues protects all parties (customer and vendor). I'd gladly do business with them again…I just wish they would change the included tank plumbing/bulkheads to standard instead of metric.

Now, I need to decide if I want to put the energy toward fixing/reinforcing the cabinet or building one from scratch! I can't wait to get water in the tank…the rock has been cured and fully cycled (fishless) using liquid ammonia (Dr Tims). :beer:
 
can someone post pictures of the tank's silicone seams and overflow box.. i need more details before ordering one.. thanks.
 
80G System. I'm using two Jebao RW-15. Waiting on Premium Aquatics to get their Tropic Eden Reefflakes shipment in. It's a slow build, but I have learn to be patient,with this hobby.

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Hello all,

I ordered an 80g setup back in November and received it this week. I had porcelain tile installed in the corner of the living room where the aquarium will sit so I don't have to mess with the setup when/if we replace the carpet in the room. I've assembled the stand and am wondering if I should leave the feet on or off. I'd think the weight would be better dispersed amongst the tile with the feet removed, however I suspect the cabinet doors will drag on the carpet if I remove the feet. Not sure if I should place a pad of some sort between the tile and stand or what. Maybe like a rubber stall mat like you can buy at Tractor Supply? Any advice from the forum?
 
Hello all,

I ordered an 80g setup back in November and received it this week. I had porcelain tile installed in the corner of the living room where the aquarium will sit so I don't have to mess with the setup when/if we replace the carpet in the room. I've assembled the stand and am wondering if I should leave the feet on or off. I'd think the weight would be better dispersed amongst the tile with the feet removed, however I suspect the cabinet doors will drag on the carpet if I remove the feet. Not sure if I should place a pad of some sort between the tile and stand or what. Maybe like a rubber stall mat like you can buy at Tractor Supply? Any advice from the forum?

I thought of the same. I didn't think of the door issue which you are absolutely right, I thought if there is a leak of some kind it would be easier for me to clean it up. The cabinet had 6 feet so the weight is distributed. It is not causing a problem on my floating wood floor.

Onur

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I caught my Mexican Hermit Crab (1") eating the sand sifting starfish. Starfish moved to the sump, he is ok for now. A lot of activity in the tank.
 
The cabinet had 6 feet so the weight is distributed. It is not causing a problem on my floating wood floor.

Onur

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I guess I'll just leave the feet on mine, too. My tile has a breaking strength of 500-750 lbs so the 6 feet should divvy up the weight well below those weights. I figured it would be best to have the weight on the entire bottom of the stand but guess I should put some trust in the SCA engineers. Hadn't read that anyone else had removed the feet. Probably over thinking it.
 
66 gallon build

66 gallon build

It has been slow build but I have been waiting for Reefledlabs Vega100 and they have been delayed. Since I live in California I thought a little steel reinfocment frame inside would make it a little more earthquake friendly. I also put a lip on the bottom and glued PVC sheet on the interior and sealed it with silicone. I changed out the bulkheads to US sizes and then used a true Durso pipe. Since I split the output flow and am diverting part of the return threw a carbon/phosphate chamber I upgraded the return pump to a Jebao 6000 DC pump. I also went with a sea sweep on the return, I am hoping it will give me enough circulation- will see. I broke down and went with the Apex controller it is getting pretty crowded in there. I would like to thank all the other poster on this thread they have been most helpful with my build. It passed its first wet test, It is pretty quiet until I increase the pump above 3/4.

Bill
 

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Looking good!

I have ordered my 66gal. How long did it take you to get after you ordered it? I am very excited to get mine, get it plumbed, and to move everything into it!
 
Sca 66

Sca 66

I too just joined the SCA owners club. I ordered mine on Monday and should have delivery by next Monday. This thread has helped a lot with various ideas. I"m sure come Monday I'll have tons of questions.
 
I picked mine up will call, was a 3 hour drive. I did have an issue with the silicone not being consistent, probably only cosmetic. There was no problem exchanging it just had to make the drive again.

Bill
 
I should get mine between Monday and Wednesday, unfortunately currently live in Illinois so no way to do a will call.
Anyone know if the drilled holes fit schedule 40 or 80 bulkheads?
 
Pardon my ignorance, but I need some help plumbing this bugger. I have the 80G setup and have a few questions ...

1. Bulkhead gaskets - I'm guessing that they go on the inside of the tank overflow between the flange and glass but am wondering why one side of the gasket is smooth and the other ribbed. Which side should be against the glass?

2. Standpipe and return pipe inside the overflow - do I just press those in? No adhesive or sealant of any kind?

3. Drain question - the flexible tubing supplied doesn't fit on the drain bulkhead, so I assume I'm to use the plastic elbow that was in the packaging? That seems to be a nice tight fit into the bulkhead but I'd guess you'd want some sort of adhesive/sealant on that to keep it from working it's way out. But if it's glued in place, I'd not be able to get the nut off the bulkhead if I ever needed to.

Again, sorry for all the questions. I've never had a built in overflow before. Thanks in advance!
 
Anyone know if the drilled holes fit schedule 40 or 80 bulkheads?

Read up higher...it's discussed in this thread. They will NOT fit. You can fit a 1in and a 1/2in ABS bulkhead. ABS is the key, because the holes are smaller due to being metric. ABS bulkheads are smaller than schedule 40.

I plan to expand the 1/2in bulkead slightly so that I can fit a 3/4in ABS bulkhead.
 
I purchased the bulkheads supplied by Drs Foster and Smith they claim to be PVC and I glued them with PVC glue. Then you can use standard US fittings and hoses. Of cource you will need to build or buy a new Durso pipe, but this will allow you to oversize it witch they claim to be quieter.

Bill

18985**1" SLIP BULKHEAD KIT
18983**1/2" SLIP BULKHEAD KIT
 
Added a filter sock mount and sock, removed the filter floss / sponge mechanical filtration that was stock. Removed the additional bio-filter ceramic rings included.

Huge improvement overall.
 
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