SC Aquariums Owners Thread

Typically the grade is important as it is different wood types used. IE base ply is a mix of cheap softwoods. Furniture grade gets into hardwoods with the cheaper ones being a mix and then getting into better grades as you climb. I am sure Dave can chime in with much more detail if you need.

Grade and type matter due to how they compress, handle weight, disperse water, ect. Different woods have different properties and yes even if you plan to simply paint they all matter. Grade isnt as important for staining as type of wood used is. IE Hickory has much different grain lines then Maple or Oak.

And no you could not build what SCA now offers for $100. Base cheap ply is $40 a sheet right now so add on hinges, paint, and screws and you are over $100.

Ok, make it $125, my God.....

And again, how do you know the stand for the 50gal is furniture grade?
 
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Ok, make it $125, my God.....

So build it yourself for $125. Count how many hours it takes you and what you feel your time is worth, then figure out the actual price. $450 for a quality cabinet is a steal, and I'm wagering will be nicer than what you can make. You got a fair deal offered to you.
 
And again, how do you know the stand for the 50gal is furniture grade?

I have called and asked as I wanted a stand for another tank. Plus he had pics and such on his FB page when they switched over to the new vendor.

Again do what you want but to talk down the price when you have never built a stand is not fair. I would wager the materials are a solid 150-200 depending on the type of ply used (again furniture grade has a ton of options. I believe he said maple which is on the cheaper side 50-60 a sheet but I would have to go back through emails to check) So he is selling it for 300. That leaves 100-150 to pay his labor, overhead, and still have any margin.

Good luck to you and I think many of us are eager to see your stand build...
 
He told me the stand is oak. Another one of the reasons I decided on the real wood stand is because it is also taller than the mdf stand.
 
He told me the stand is oak. Another one of the reasons I decided on the real wood stand is because it is also taller than the mdf stand.

What is the height on the wood stands? I intially wanted something taller than the 32" but now that I have it set up I'm glad it's the height it is. I'm 5'10" and I can just barely get my arm to the bottom of the 90g without a step stool
 
I have called and asked as I wanted a stand for another tank. Plus he had pics and such on his FB page when they switched over to the new vendor.

Again do what you want but to talk down the price when you have never built a stand is not fair. I would wager the materials are a solid 150-200 depending on the type of ply used (again furniture grade has a ton of options. I believe he said maple which is on the cheaper side 50-60 a sheet but I would have to go back through emails to check) So he is selling it for 300. That leaves 100-150 to pay his labor, overhead, and still have any margin.

Good luck to you and I think many of us are eager to see your stand build...

I'd say this is very accurate, and if you think you can build anything decent for $125 I'd sure like to see it.
I'm sure Soulpatch has a pretty good idea what's up since I do spot him both here and on SCA's FB page quite often assisting others in making decisions for no apparent reason other than just being kind and passing along the good vibes.
I always see people quote a wood only price for materials, often not thinking of top and bottom ply as well as face and doors, and yes good ply is about $40-45 a sheet, but what many forget are the miscelanious items like screws, glues, nails, sandpaper, caulking, hinges, blades, and of course primer and paint or stain and clear, and that alone comes to probably not far from a $100.
But hey, I understand, to each their own, we all have a different eye and budget in mind...there's always the cinder block and plank!lol
 
what is the height on the wood stands? I intially wanted something taller than the 32" but now that i have it set up i'm glad it's the height it is. I'm 5'10" and i can just barely get my arm to the bottom of the 90g without a step stool

36"
 
SCA MDF Canopy and Kessils

SCA MDF Canopy and Kessils

Hey folks,

Anyone out there with the MDF stand/canopy using Kessils? I have 3x 160we and was wondering how you ended up mounting them with the canopy in place. Currently I am running the tank w/o the canopy so am able to clamp the goosenecks onto the eurobracing but I would really like to use it with the canopy.

Thanks.
 
Argh!!!

Argh!!!

I have a little 16 gal running with a couple fish and anemone.
I performed my weekly 5 gal water change last night and was thinking how nice and clear the water looked.
Woke up this morning and the water looked a bit cloudy. I looked for the anemone and sure enough, it was sucked into my Hydor wave maker, head first. ARGH!
I pulled the pump apart to see if I could save the little bugger. There wasn't anything left to save. I'm feeling a bit crushed that I lost my anemone, but also concerned about my water quality at this point. Before my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate have been at 0. I just ran another water test and everything is at 0, but the bottom of my tank is covered with green glowing anemone tentacles. I'm mixing up another batch of salt water, and will need to buy some more salt to complete the batch.
About how long before the body part begin to break down? How long do I have before my water becomes toxic??

Ted
 
I have a little 16 gal running with a couple fish and anemone.
I performed my weekly 5 gal water change last night and was thinking how nice and clear the water looked.
Woke up this morning and the water looked a bit cloudy. I looked for the anemone and sure enough, it was sucked into my Hydor wave maker, head first. ARGH!
I pulled the pump apart to see if I could save the little bugger. There wasn't anything left to save. I'm feeling a bit crushed that I lost my anemone, but also concerned about my water quality at this point. Before my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate have been at 0. I just ran another water test and everything is at 0, but the bottom of my tank is covered with green glowing anemone tentacles. I'm mixing up another batch of salt water, and will need to buy some more salt to complete the batch.
About how long before the body part begin to break down? How long do I have before my water becomes toxic??

Ted

You probably want to post this in the Reef Aquarium Forum. Might get a quicker/better response than just having it in the SCA Owner thread
 
Progress with plumbing

Progress with plumbing

The main drain is on the right with the gate valve and 1 union. The return line is in the middle with two unions. The emergency drain is on the left with a union ball valve combo. I want to replace the 45 degree fitting with a 90 to give the skimmer more room.
I've got some cleaning up to do in the tank and sump and a couple of things here and there with the plumbing.
How far down into the sump do I want the drain pipes to go? An inch or two below the top of the glass??
If you spot something total off, please let me know.

Ted
 

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Pulled the trigger on a 150 this week. Sounds like it will be shipped out on Monday.

Hopefully meeting up with a buddy this weekend to start buying supplies for the stand.
 
The main drain is on the right with the gate valve and 1 union. The return line is in the middle with two unions. The emergency drain is on the left with a union ball valve combo. I want to replace the 45 degree fitting with a 90 to give the skimmer more room.
I've got some cleaning up to do in the tank and sump and a couple of things here and there with the plumbing.
How far down into the sump do I want the drain pipes to go? An inch or two below the top of the glass??
If you spot something total off, please let me know.

Ted

The main drain and emergency pipes should be 1" below the water level. I'm not sure why you would ever need a ball valve on the emergency drain. Is it possible for that sump to be turned the other direction? I think it would flow much better that way, in regards to the plumbing. Or does it not fit in the stand if you turn it? Or.... just put your skimmer in the middle chamber; what is in the middle chamber?
 
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Ryshark,

Unfortunately the sump only fits the one way. I thought it would be a good idea to be able to control all flow from the tank to the sump. I probably won't use it, but better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
I was going to use the center chamber for a refugium. The skimmer is too wide to fit in the middle section.


Ted
 
The main drain and emergency pipes should be 1" below the water level. I'm not sure why you would ever need a ball valve on the emergency drain. Is it possible for that sump to be turned the other direction? I think it would flow much better that way, in regards to the plumbing. Or does it not fit in the stand if you turn it? Or.... just put your skimmer in the middle chamber; what is in the middle chamber?

You would generally want the emergency drain to terminate above the water line, that way you will hear it splashing if something is wrong with the primary drain. Agreed with no reason for a valve on the emergency.
 
Ryshark,

Unfortunately the sump only fits the one way. I thought it would be a good idea to be able to control all flow from the tank to the sump. I probably won't use it, but better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
I was going to use the center chamber for a refugium. The skimmer is too wide to fit in the middle section.


Ted

Then putting a 90 on the emergency drain is fine. Your main drain is nice and straight, which is more important.
 
Is it possible for that sump to be turned the other direction? I think it would flow much better that way, in regards to the plumbing. Or does it not fit in the stand if you turn it?

Because the sump would only fit inside the stand one way, I sort of cheated. I gave myself front and side access to the sump.
 

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