SC Aquariums Owners Thread

How does this plumbing job look? For Sca50 in custom stand. Left is emergency drain, middle is return, need to add another union and 45 degree just above pump and right is main drain..Still needs a union above the filter sock holder. Manifold has a valve for feeding the reactor and another for future use....Any updates or changes I should make?
 

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If this is dry fit here is what I would change.

But first I assume that the large 3" pipe in the back is for your home correct? Looks like an access so I would be leary blocking that.

1. Add another 45 to the end of the emergency or throw a 90 on there. You want that going straight down else you could have a serious mess should you need it to go full siphon.
2. You will want gate on the return. With Herbie you will likely need to dial back the return pump and with you running a manifold off of it as well you will need to edit the flow as media gets clogged or you add items to the manifold. IE I took my reactor offline for a bit and had to dial back my pump. gate valve should be after the t for your manifold as you need to adjust water to the tank only. I would sub it for that small straight piece you have between the 45s

3. spa flex or masterflex. Use that to attach the pump so you dont get additional head loss but still have the anti vibration benefits

4. Get the push connect adaptors from BRS for the manifold. Makes attaching things super easy.
 
Yes, it is dry fit.....The large 3" pipe is inside the stand, using it as a pass thru to the side of the stand where I am keeping all the electronics. I am also going to use a Jebao DC pump so I will be able to adjust the return flow that way. I did get the murloc fittings from BRS and the silicone tubing to keep it quiet. I will use the spa flex(currently on the emergency drain....See the orange line on the pipe😁) to finish the plumbing to the pump to reduce vibrations.
 
You cant use the DC pump in that way. Sure you can adjust flow from the pump to the return line but that is total flow. You can not fine tune the flow to the tank easily that way especially since you have a manifold on the line. You need to use a gate valve for that. Teh flow will change too much with the manifold to keep your desired levels in the tank only using the dc return pump controls. And the Jabeo is nice but it doesnt have minute enough differences in flow like a gate valve affords. I use one on my skimmer.
 
Question about water flow from the sump to the tank.

I purchased a Sicce pump rated for a little over 500 gph. When I set up the tank and added water, I noticed I had to really dial down the gate valve so the main drain wasn't sucking so much air. The gate valve was over 3/4s closed. I replaced that pump with the stock pump, rated at a little over 600 GPH and the gate valve only needed to be closed less than 1/2. I definitely see much better water movement in the tank and sump which leads me to believe I have pretty good flow. However, I do not see any way to increase or decrease the flow on the stock pump. I'm looking at a Sicce pump rated for over 700 gph. This for a 50 gal cube. Is this too much? I don't want to blow my fish all over tank. I was thinking it would be better to open up the gate valve and dial down the pump. That would give me greater flexibility for future pump demands.
Thoughts??
Ted
 
water sock holder

water sock holder

While I though I was being wise in ordering filter socks, I realized I needed to come up with a way to hold them. I created a stand using a 4 inch PVC pipe. I drilled four x one inch holes about two inched from the top. I used a saw to cut vertical slots from the holes to the bottom of the pipe, creating four legs or four opening for water to flow through.

I stretch the top of the filter sock enough for it to fit over the side of the PVC pipe. So far its working out great.
 

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you ever add the gate valve to the return line like I mentioned? If so use that gate to edit flow to the tank. I wouldn't recommend limiting a drain as doing so gives a platform for gunk to build up and whatnot which can cause issues longer term. With a valve on the return pump you can better tune the water returning to the tank from the pump and also go larger pump for things like a manifold.

IE I have a Fluval SP6 on mine which is more then I need but with the manifold and such it is nice to have extra bandwidth. I do have the gate on the retun line closed about 1/4 of the way to limit the flow to the tanka nd balance the system.
 
Question about water flow from the sump to the tank.

I purchased a Sicce pump rated for a little over 500 gph. When I set up the tank and added water, I noticed I had to really dial down the gate valve so the main drain wasn't sucking so much air. The gate valve was over 3/4s closed. I replaced that pump with the stock pump, rated at a little over 600 GPH and the gate valve only needed to be closed less than 1/2. I definitely see much better water movement in the tank and sump which leads me to believe I have pretty good flow. However, I do not see any way to increase or decrease the flow on the stock pump. I'm looking at a Sicce pump rated for over 700 gph. This for a 50 gal cube. Is this too much? I don't want to blow my fish all over tank. I was thinking it would be better to open up the gate valve and dial down the pump. That would give me greater flexibility for future pump demands.
Thoughts??
Ted

The Sicce Syncra's can be dialed back on the pump itself. The max head pressure has a lot to do with the flow coming out and in to your tank.
 
I am looking for info/input on taking delivery of your tank if it was freighted to you. Did the driver take the pallet(s) off the truck for you and put them wherever you asked? (driveway, garage, etc) Or did you have to unload it from the truck yourself?

And if you had free shipping, did it cost you something to have it taken off the truck and placed on your property?

Just trying to prepare for eventual delivery of my own tank.
 
I didn't have to pay anything extra. The driver put it right in my garage and let me inspect everything before signing off. I'd email Steve and make sure you're getting the same service. But it really only took 5 minutes max. The driver had it off the truck and in my driveway before knocking on the door. Super straight forward.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
it all depends on the freight company that serves your area. Some charge for lift gate service and "curb side" whereas others do not. Before delivery you should get a call from the company and you can ensure everything with them. If they do charge for liftgate ping Steve and he will pay it typically.
 
I had mine delivered by Estes with the free shipping option. Guy wheeled it right in my garage, no charge, called before arrival, and let me open everything up and inspect it.
 
Thanks all. Sounds like it shouldn't be too big of a hassle. I'm not terribly concerned with a charge for lift gate service, just want to be prepared.
 
@soulpatch....And others.... How does this revised plumbing job look for my 50g? Any suggestions / changes needed before I start to glue?
 

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