SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[drew930]

I don't think the eurobrace will affect aquascaping. The only way I think it will affect lighting is if you were planning on using a light that has a top tank mount. A lot of lights are being hung or attached inside a canopy. Other than that if you are talking about the penetration it still won't be an issue. I think the brace is only 2-3" wide.

Don't quote me on this but I think most of the standard tanks are made to order ... so you could even ask if he would give you the same price and drill 2 holes in the back for return lines.... just in case you decide to go without canopy.

 

[strat1960s]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NNd3cngD0Y&list=PLARBSOwKOnHkw1lxTuCAsFCTgnLAY9d1S&index=3

 

[ryshark]

I thought I'd join in on the fun. I picked up a used 90 cube. I took out the center overflow and modified the sump to fit my needs. I'm using an Eshopps Eclipse for the overflow. For the return pump, I picked up a Jebao Dcp-6500. Here's some pics

looks good, how do you like the dual gyre's?

 

[Willy315]

looks good, how do you like the dual gyre's?

They are great. I have both of them hooked up to the advanced controller. I have them set at 70% anti sync pulse mode. Another thing I like with the 130/230's, is that with them hooked up to the controller you only need one power supply.

 

[strat1960s]

At a little over a month and a half, I believe my tank is nearing the end of its initial cycle.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: not quite 0 (Showing more yellow than orange on API test)
I have some diatom algae growing on the rocks which the critters are enjoying.
I'm going to continue to hold off on any more fish till March. I'd like to add a Bi-Color Angel and a Fox Face Rabbit Fish (a month apart). I am going to start working on the water parameters (testing and such) to be sure the water/tank is ready for some corals.
I've gotten mixed comments on water changes. Some say I should be doing water changes while others tell me to wait. As long as the water I am add is the same salinity as the water in the tank I don't see any problems. Do any of you see a problem??

Ted

 

[soulpatch]

If you are zero on ammonia and nitrites then you will need water changes for the nitrates. The only way to get rid of nitrates early in the life cycle for a tank is to export via water changes. The anarobic (misspelled I know) bacteria that will help handle nitrates take a while to populate.

For the fish please make sure you look up TTM and QT. You went through all this trouble for the tank so m ight as well ensure no disease into the tank at this point.

 

[strat1960s]

Soulpatch,

Took some searching, but yes, I need to get a couple small tanks ($ per gallon sale) for this.

Thank you.
Ted

 

[pfan151]

Soulpatch,

Took some searching, but yes, I need to get a couple small tanks ($ per gallon sale) for this.

Thank you.
Ted

IMO. Rubbermaid tubs are better for TTM than glass tanks. Just easier to pick them up and dump them out than having to siphon water out of a glass tank.

 

[soulpatch]

IMO. Rubbermaid tubs are better for TTM than glass tanks. Just easier to pick them up and dump them out than having to siphon water out of a glass tank.

That is what a cheap $10 mj pump is for.

 

[strat1960s]

Salinity vs PH

Salinity vs PH

I was running my salinity a little on the high side (35 to 37). I noticed the PH had dropped below 8.00. I realized the error of my ways and began reducing the salinity. Now my PH is just above 8.00.
How much does salinity affect PH? Or could the PH be affected by the brand of salt I use?
My salinity is now at 34.6 and the alarm trigger on my Apex is set for 32.0 to 35.9. I may narrow that down even further as I figure out the Apex and my ATO. I would like to try to dial my salinity in to where it is at a constant, only fluctuating a point or two when the ATO adds RODI to the sump.

Ted

 

[strat1960s]

Update on the salinity range. I discovered even 35.9 was a bit high. I've adjusted the Max down to 33.9 (1.0255).
Lets see how that goes.

Ted

 

[ReefCowboy]

Received the 20" Overflow for the 150... build coming together. Fits perfectly

 

[brownbearhair]

Received the 20" Overflow for the 150... build coming together. Fits perfectly

When you ordered you tank did you have to contact them to have them still for that box?
Also did you have to pay extra for it? And if so how much did it spoke the price up?

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

 

[ReefCowboy]

When you ordered you tank did you have to contact them to have them still for that box?
Also did you have to pay extra for it? And if so how much did it spoke the price up?

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

The tank is sold factory pre drilled to accomodate the synergy overflow 20" box.
It is not a custom tank, it is the 150 gal rimless version.
You would buy the box separate from Synergy Reef.

 

[brownbearhair]

The tank is sold factory pre drilled to accomodate the synergy overflow 20" box.
It is not a custom tank, it is the 150 gal rimless version.
You would buy the box separate from Synergy Reef.

Oh. Very nice
Great looking tank keep updating on your progress

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

 

[ReefCowboy]

Thanks brownbearhair,

Picked up the custom stand also...solid built



Sump going inside...

 

[strat1960s]

That sump is awesome!

 

[brownbearhair]

Is the stand by a custom builder or is it the new wood ones that sc now supply?
That is one seeexy sump man.

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

 

[pfan151]

That is what a cheap $10 mj pump is for.

I guess. Still easier to just pick the tub up and dump it down the drain but I guess whatever works.

 

[ReefCowboy]

That sump is awesome!

Thanks strat1960s,

The DT will hold very little LR, mainly sps growing on the sand. Ive added 2x marine pure media trays that will hold 8x4x4" blocks each. I was going to place the blocks on the sump bottom but with the trays the blocks will be suspended allowing water to go through them. The top block will stick outside the water by 1" so aerobic bacteria can carry nitrification. The bottom one will get low flow with low o2 so anaerobic can also process nitrates.




The trays can be removed and the holes were made to hold frag plugs so I can hold frags. If I remove both trays I will have the space for any other equipment I need there. I will pumb the GFO reactor suspended on the return pipe, so I can have more room in the sump.