SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I️ run a jebao dcp 10000. It's perfectly fine but if it died on me or I️ could do it over again I'd get a fluval sp4. AC pumps will actually use LESS energy than DC pumps on this skimmer, and the only benefit to a dc pump is turning it down. Just keep in mind that the Venturi can handle a max flow of about 1600 gph. Any more than that it's just wasted energy, and the less you use, the less foam you'll get


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I️ run a jebao dcp 10000. It's perfectly fine but if it died on me or I️ could do it over again I'd get a fluval sp4. AC pumps will actually use LESS energy than DC pumps on this skimmer, and the only benefit to a dc pump is turning it down. Just keep in mind that the Venturi can handle a max flow of about 1600 gph. Any more than that it's just wasted energy, and the less you use, the less foam you'll get


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The Fluval SP4 says it's rated at 1822 gph. Is that not a bit overpowered? Based on your 1600 gph max?


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The Fluval SP4 says it's rated at 1822 gph. Is that not a bit overpowered? Based on your 1600 gph max?


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A tad bit. You can dial it back a touch with a gate valve or a ball valve


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I have a DC12000 on my lifereef. I typically run it darn near full power but prefer DC for the reason that at times I feed heavier or feeding corals and I can turn the pump down a few notches on the controller to ensure it doesnt pull anything out of the water column but it continues to supply O2 to the water. Also when and if I run something like chemipure I can change the flow rates without messing with valves

That all said the default pump sent with the lifereef is a mag18 which is 1800 GPH...
 
Anyone know if you can do a Bean Animal setup on the 50g PNP and add an additional hole or two for the return?

Yes! Steve does custom tanks so he should be able to do that no problem. Just give him a call. He will probably ask for a drawing of some type to know the location for the return hole(s)
 
The best laid plans, eh. After I had decided on getting a shadow overflow and a custom tank from SCA, they put the 90 gallon PNP on sale. Since I can get the stand, skimmer, tank, sump and return pump for less than the cost of the custom tank and overflow, it's hard to pass on the sale.

So, it looks like I'll be ordering the 90 gallon PNP system soon. That being said, I know some of you have told me to upgrade the return pump, which I will do and eventually replace the skimmer in the future. I'll upgrade the pump right away.

My question is for homer1475 and anyone else who upgraded the bulkheads. I think homer told me he did. What did you use? Arent the holes 1" in the PNP? Did you upgrade to the schedule 80 double threaded 1" bulkheads. Since I have to order rock and other things, I wanted to get the bulkheads and some plumbing now to save on shipping later.

I'm going to get Pukani dry rock and cure it in a bucket for 10 weeks, then set up the tank with live sand and the cured rock. I'll run it with the new setup for a week or so and put in some snails, then add a few corals after a couple of weeks. I figure since the rock should already be cured and cycled, I should be ahead of the curve in adding livestock to the tank. After about 3-4 months of only coral and snails, I'll add the 2 clowns from my current tank and start to populate with other fish, one each week until I get to about 6 fish and then let it settle for a couple months. Then I'll add a few more. That's the plan, I hope it works. It's a 12 month plan.

Thanks
Mike
 
The bulkheads that come with the PNP system are fine, just a little thin and flimsy.

I got the 1" slip x thread ABS bulkheads from BRS.

I prefer slip on the flange/head side as you can just friction fit your drain lines in the tank and be able to easily pull them if you need to access something in the overflow. Where as threads on the underside assure no leaks and can still be unscrewed if need be.
 
I cannot stress this enough!!!

MAKE SURE YOU TREAT THAT PUKANI FOR PHOSPHATES WHILE CURING!!!!

I did not treat my dry pukani long enough and have been battling horrible GHA for over a year now. It's so bad, I've lost several LPS from the algae strangling it out.

I'm rebooting my tank with new LR and new sand.
 
I cannot stress this enough!!!

MAKE SURE YOU TREAT THAT PUKANI FOR PHOSPHATES WHILE CURING!!!!

I did not treat my dry pukani long enough and have been battling horrible GHA for over a year now. It's so bad, I've lost several LPS from the algae strangling it out.

I'm rebooting my tank with new LR and new sand.

How would you go about treating for phosphate?
 
Lanthanum chloride, or phosphate remover for pools. Seaclear is a specific product that can be bought online or at a pool dealership.

There is a thread I believe it's in the DIY section on how to treat dry pukani for PO4.
 
Lanthanum chloride, or phosphate remover for pools. Seaclear is a specific product that can be bought online or at a pool dealership.

There is a thread I believe it's in the DIY section on how to treat dry pukani for PO4.

Thanks. Currently have about 50lbs of dry pukani curing in a trash can. I'll have to read up this.
 
Hey thanks Homer,

I was under the impression if I cured it in a bucket for 10-12 weeks, changing the water every week or so and adding a small piece of live rock to seed the bacteria, I would be good to go. I'll check into the phosphate remover. Thanks for the tips.

Did you put a valve on every line, or just the main drain? I'm thinking of putting a union and a valve on all 3 lines, or all 4 if I make it a bean animal system.

thanks again
Mike
 
Gate on the siphon line for fine tuning the return to the siphon. Just a simple ball valve on the return line only to be bale to stop the overflow from daining completely if I ever need to pull the pump.

No valve on your emergency! That is just asking for a flood. It's called an emergency for a reason, and if anything crawls down it and blocks it up, you no longer have an emergency drain.
 
Hey D805,

How big is your tank? I'm trying to figure out how much Pukani I'll need for 90 gallons. I know most say .5-.75 a pound since its so lightweight, but was curious of your thoughts.

I've been collecting some really nice coral fossils off our local beach after the hurricanes and plan to put some of that in there too. That's already been bleached and sun dried for weeks, but I'm going to cure that for 10 weeks too. Its pretty dense stuff, but the patterns are great and I don't see many builds with coral fossils. I'm looking for something a bit different.

Thanks
Mike
 
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