SC Aquariums Owners Thread
- Thread starter OceanWolf
- Start date
homer1475
New member
Found the thread! It wasn't in the DIY section, but rather the reef discussion section.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2145395&highlight=lanthanum+chloride+pukani
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2145395&highlight=lanthanum+chloride+pukani
Thanks Homer
I bought some Pukani rock and some Lanthanum chloride from BRS this morning. I'll put it
in a plastic tub with a heater and powerhead for 8-12 weeks or until I'm satisfied
that its cured and cycled properly. Then I'll set up the new tank.
thanks for all your help.
I had diatoms in my biocube for about a week. I don't want to see them ever again
Oh, I added more chemi-clear extra and did a water change (tho I do them every 10 days anyway) the diatoms went away over night.
Mike
I bought some Pukani rock and some Lanthanum chloride from BRS this morning. I'll put it
in a plastic tub with a heater and powerhead for 8-12 weeks or until I'm satisfied
that its cured and cycled properly. Then I'll set up the new tank.
thanks for all your help.
I had diatoms in my biocube for about a week. I don't want to see them ever again
Oh, I added more chemi-clear extra and did a water change (tho I do them every 10 days anyway) the diatoms went away over night.Mike
soulpatch
New member
I disagree with the ball valve on the return. In MOST cases our returns are capable of pushing more then 950 GPH that 1" drains can handle. You will need to dial in the return in most cases and a gate gives the detail you need to perfectly tune the system. If you add manifolds and such it is even MORE important to go gate valves.
Obviously a ball valve is better then no valve but gate is the way to go. Add a union for easy removal and you are good to go.
texdoc77
New member
Soulpatch is right on. If you want to dial it in right, get the gate valve. The difference that very minute changes to flow makes is essential to getting it tuned in the right way.
texdoc77
New member
Quick question for other 150g owners. What do you think the dry weight of the tank and wood stand is? I was estimating about 400 lbs, but anyone have a better estimate? I am moving from slab foundation to pier and beam and the general contractor renovating the floor is asking for total weight. The water won't be too hard just trying to figure the glass and stand. Thanks in advance!!
soulpatch
New member
You can ping Steve as he would know shipping weights. I think you are likely looking at closer to 500 pounds. the main panels of glass for the tank alone is roughly 38 sq. ft. At 7 pounds a sq./ft. and you are at 266 pounds. Add on another 50 pounds easy for the eurobrace, overflow, and silicone and you are looking at 350 pounds. Add at least another hundred pounds for the stand, 50 for canopy and you are at 500 pounds give or take.
I think you'll be happy with the skimmer. I have the same setup and the skimmer has worked fine for the last year with no maintenance. There are of course fancier skimmers out there but in the end they are all pretty much a cone that makes bubbles. I don't really notice the noise people complain of from the pump. With the cabinet closed I can barely hear the skimmer.
homer1475
New member
Yeah I never think of throttling down the return as I bought a pump that does not need to be throttled, and only have the ball valve to shut off the return from the overflow.
But yes, Soul is spot on with the gate if your pump is oversized.
FLSharkvictim
New member
Maybe someone can help me! I just bought a SC150 gallon Rimless tank, stand and canopy and I am wondering what size Bulk-Heads did your tank come with on the returns?? The reason why I ask is the ones they sent me for my returns will not fit a 3/4'' Locline or PVC pipe and they are not 1/2'' in size.
Here is a picture of diameter of my returns on my 150 which is 1 3/8'' See attachment!
Here is a picture of diameter of my returns on my 150 which is 1 3/8'' See attachment!
Attachments
Ok, I realize this is an SC owners thread so..likely biased input to come but...I'm considering an upgrade from my SCA 66 PNP to the 150g. But...I'm not 100% sure. Price of course is always a factor, my pockets are not bottomless as much as I'd like to think so.
But...$800 for a 150g from SCA or I can source a 120 (48x24x24) rimless locally for $500.
Steve quoted a stand at the same price as the tank which is terribly steep IMO. $800 for a stand...
I can also purchase locally a steel 6' stand that would fit either tank for $300 or less.
My issue is that I would have to find someone to get the stand for me and would need help moving it, which is hard to come by where I live. Not really any other hobbyists around my rural area.
Or..I build one myself which I've done before but I'm not good at the finish work so would have to keep it relatively basic in that regard.
Equipment wise I am not sure there's really an advantage of a 4' tank vs a 5' tank. My current light fixture is the 15" 150 SE MH pendant from Reefbrite, which I'd probably opt for the 36" version which should accommodate either tank.
Sump size, pumps etc would all be relatively the same I believe.
Now, if you've hung in there this far, my main driver for considering an upgrade is to better accommodate some of my fish. Or..I will have to sell off fish most likely in order to stick with the 66g.
This has turned into a bit of a ramble but...anyone with insight, ideas, opinions?
I guess ideally I'd upgrade to the 150 just so that I was accommodating everything without needing to upgrade again (I don't want any fish that end up needing something bigger than a 150), but the 120 is cheaper....
But...$800 for a 150g from SCA or I can source a 120 (48x24x24) rimless locally for $500.
Steve quoted a stand at the same price as the tank which is terribly steep IMO. $800 for a stand...
I can also purchase locally a steel 6' stand that would fit either tank for $300 or less.
My issue is that I would have to find someone to get the stand for me and would need help moving it, which is hard to come by where I live. Not really any other hobbyists around my rural area.
Or..I build one myself which I've done before but I'm not good at the finish work so would have to keep it relatively basic in that regard.
Equipment wise I am not sure there's really an advantage of a 4' tank vs a 5' tank. My current light fixture is the 15" 150 SE MH pendant from Reefbrite, which I'd probably opt for the 36" version which should accommodate either tank.
Sump size, pumps etc would all be relatively the same I believe.
Now, if you've hung in there this far, my main driver for considering an upgrade is to better accommodate some of my fish. Or..I will have to sell off fish most likely in order to stick with the 66g.
This has turned into a bit of a ramble but...anyone with insight, ideas, opinions?
I guess ideally I'd upgrade to the 150 just so that I was accommodating everything without needing to upgrade again (I don't want any fish that end up needing something bigger than a 150), but the 120 is cheaper....
If it was me, I'd go with the 150g. I love the 5 foot length of it. Lots of swimming room and you get a better spread for the rock and corals. I read that you mentioned you won't have much in the way of help to move things. The SCA 150g tank weighs about 325lbs, so you will need to consider how you are going to get help to move the tank onto the stand much less into the house. I bought two of those dollies from Lowe's to move the tank into the house and myself and two guys moved it onto the stand. Just a thought on the labor help part. As far as the SCA stand and canopy go, SCA provides a really nice set but if you could make one it would definitely be cheaper. I bought the SCA stand and canopy because I just don't have the time to get things done in a timely manner. A steel stand would be sweet but again you would have to do the finishing and fine tune the look. If time isn't a factor, then I would build it. I would recommend that you get a canopy for this size tank as the light pollution coming into the room it in sits can get bad. The SCA stand is 36" high and the 150g tank is 24" high, so that's 5 feet without the light being over it. I'd say you are right about the equipment to support either size tank but of course that depends on the quality of that equipment.
I probably would end up just purchasing the stand as my skills aren't that great and I want it to look decent.
My current fixture is the 15" Reefbrite MH pendant. I'd go for the double 36" pendant for the 150g tank. Would that work in a canopy or would I need to leave it open?
I could round up some moving help if needed, just wouldn't be hobbyists. But, that's ok as long as they have strong backs and ideally only needs to be moved around once and done. In the house, onto the stand.
I think that would work but I would get the dimensions of it to be sure. The canopy that SCA builds has an opening in the top that is 45"Lx12.5"W. I rest my light fixture on top of that opening and my Reef Brites are mounted inside the top of the canopy. Should you get the SCA 150g, get a 1/4" yoga mat to place on top of the stand so the tank has a flat even surface. There will be a thin Styrofoam pad that comes with the tank but I threw it away as I thought it was packing material. Steve (SCA) told me to get the yoga mat which was better anyway.
I checked Amazon and didn't see the yoga mat that I bought. The important part is that it is no more than 1/4". I bought a brown one and trimmed the excess with an X-acto knife. It squishes down to the point you can't even see it's there. I actually bought two of them and used one for the interior of the cabinet for my sump and other equipment to rest on.
I checked Amazon and didn't see the yoga mat that I bought. The important part is that it is no more than 1/4". I bought a brown one and trimmed the excess with an X-acto knife. It squishes down to the point you can't even see it's there. I actually bought two of them and used one for the interior of the cabinet for my sump and other equipment to rest on.
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