Yup. You're right. So I took a bunch today. Will try to post them tomorrow.Always good to take pics anyways so you can see growth?
scolley's Big Little Nano – yet another build thread
- Thread starter scolley
- Start date
ctreefer
New member
Today!!! pics time!
Sounds like the tank is coming along really nice. can't wait to see the pics.
Are you going to the frag meet next month up in Storrs?
Good way to avoid "brown shipped' corals. I'm pulling my hair out waiting for that meet but I will say it's made me double up on tank maintenance and planning getting ready for it.
Sounds like the tank is coming along really nice. can't wait to see the pics.
Are you going to the frag meet next month up in Storrs?
Good way to avoid "brown shipped' corals. I'm pulling my hair out waiting for that meet but I will say it's made me double up on tank maintenance and planning getting ready for it.
Not sure... I may have blown my frag budget for the short term. Will see if the wifey is interested in a long drive. Give it a 50/50 chance.
OK, pics. But they are AWFUL. Between problems with focus and white balance. I should really hold off for my figuring out how to use my camera better. But that would look like more foot dragging. So here goes...
FTS
The new fish, including the Clown Goby peeking out from the Dendro.
And the tube anemone from my local reef club bud.
Here's a number of badly focused monti's...
Sunset Monti from a bud in our reef club.
Green Mountain from Pacific East
Spongodes Monti I snagged cheap from my LFS
True Superman from Vivid, plus a Blasto merletti from PacEast, and my "Killer" acan echinata
And I'm thrilled to report that my Meteor Shower Cyphastrea is recovering really, really, well. Not only has almost all of the dead looking skeleton filled back in, but it's encrusting in every direction around that plug, including directly under it in constant shadow.
Unfortunately you can also get a really good look at the cyano in that shot. It's driving me nuts. The right hand rock has it bad, and now it's cropping up on the left one too.
FTS
The new fish, including the Clown Goby peeking out from the Dendro.
And the tube anemone from my local reef club bud.
Here's a number of badly focused monti's...
Sunset Monti from a bud in our reef club.
Green Mountain from Pacific East
Spongodes Monti I snagged cheap from my LFS
True Superman from Vivid, plus a Blasto merletti from PacEast, and my "Killer" acan echinata
And I'm thrilled to report that my Meteor Shower Cyphastrea is recovering really, really, well. Not only has almost all of the dead looking skeleton filled back in, but it's encrusting in every direction around that plug, including directly under it in constant shadow.
Unfortunately you can also get a really good look at the cyano in that shot. It's driving me nuts. The right hand rock has it bad, and now it's cropping up on the left one too.
Picked up a button coral (Cynarina lacrymalis)from Divers Den. I bought it for the color in their pics, but have not seen anything close to that under my lights.
Here's the Pink Stylophora colony that Vivid sent when I only ordered a frag.
An Rainbow Aussie spathulata acro from PacEast. Not too "Rainbow" yet. Recovering I suppose.
An Neon Alien Blood acro from PacEast.
And an Neon Green Acropora Caroliniana from Vivid.
On of my original Bird's Nest that's trying to recover.
And and acro from the original tank that is just thriving in it's new home.
Here's the Pink Stylophora colony that Vivid sent when I only ordered a frag.
An Rainbow Aussie spathulata acro from PacEast. Not too "Rainbow" yet. Recovering I suppose.
An Neon Alien Blood acro from PacEast.
And an Neon Green Acropora Caroliniana from Vivid.
On of my original Bird's Nest that's trying to recover.
And and acro from the original tank that is just thriving in it's new home.
And almost last, some of my beloved acans. It's amazing how much they will reward you if you'll just leave them alone.
And a shot under Royal Blues.
And finally an FTS under Royal Blues at the end of the daily photo period. The color's MUCH better in person. Really bad color balance in that shot. In real life the tank looks almost like something in a black light show under all RB's.
There's MUCH that I could not get pics of. Particularly the stuff in the top left corner where it is so high up - just too bright. Which is too bad, some of the best corals are there. Likewise I did get a couple of really nice monti's from PacEast that every pic had the color SO off that it would have just be wrong to post them. Sorry.
Will figure out the camera better and get better pics later.
And a shot under Royal Blues.
And finally an FTS under Royal Blues at the end of the daily photo period. The color's MUCH better in person. Really bad color balance in that shot. In real life the tank looks almost like something in a black light show under all RB's.
There's MUCH that I could not get pics of. Particularly the stuff in the top left corner where it is so high up - just too bright. Which is too bad, some of the best corals are there. Likewise I did get a couple of really nice monti's from PacEast that every pic had the color SO off that it would have just be wrong to post them. Sorry.
Will figure out the camera better and get better pics later.
I wish is were that nice.
But thanks for the sentiment anyway. Check back in 2-3 years. Oh, in the interest of full disclosure... that pic of the button coral had it's color, contrast, etc. Photoshopped. The pic was just too washed out with high and low contrast to use. The result makes the coral a bit redder than it actually appears. Even then it's FAR from the Diver's Den photo that prompted me to buy it.
Steve,
The thought that went into this tank really shows. I went back and read the thread from your previous tank as well. Your perseverance and detailed posts of what went right and what went wrong kept me reading from start to finish a couple nights ago. I considered doing a build thread for my next project but seeing yours makes me think I might not, could never measure up to what you did here and there are so many that fade off into the sunset leaving you wondering "What ever happened to that tank?"
The thought that went into this tank really shows. I went back and read the thread from your previous tank as well. Your perseverance and detailed posts of what went right and what went wrong kept me reading from start to finish a couple nights ago. I considered doing a build thread for my next project but seeing yours makes me think I might not, could never measure up to what you did here and there are so many that fade off into the sunset leaving you wondering "What ever happened to that tank?"
PLEASE jmsalt1 do not hesitate to start a build thread based on anything you've read here! ALL honest threads are a valuable contribution to the community's shared knowledge. If you've taken anything from this, I hope its recognition that posting the good AND the bad is what is most valuable as experiences to learn from.
So I'm expecting that thread. Please post a link to that thread here.
So I'm expecting that thread.
Please post a link to that thread here.
Right now my only outstanding "to do" on this tank is the previously mentioned running of the chiller plumbing. Plus I'm planning on tweaking my DIY LED fixture a bit for improved color. But for the most part, the fish are in, inverts are in, corals are 90% in place.
So now it's all about stability, keeping my hands out of the tank, letting the automation do its magic, and TIME.
More pics periodically, just to show progress, or lack thereof.
So now it's all about stability, keeping my hands out of the tank, letting the automation do its magic, and TIME.
More pics periodically, just to show progress, or lack thereof.
ange062
New member
And and acro from the original tank that is just thriving in it's new home.
You sure that's an acro? Looks more like a psammocora, hynophora, or something like that.
Tank is looking good though, look forward to progress!
Thanks Ange. I'm certain its none of those, but its a foot catch all the same. Will have to research my purchase records to find out just what exactly it is.
Thanks.
So I'm expecting that thread.
Ok, will give the build thread a shot. Not that you haven't already gone way above and beyond sharing all the thought that goes into your tank, but maybe you could give us an idea of your feeding regiment right now. Also, I'd be curious to see the inside of the stand now that you have it all up and running w the ATS. I am fascinated by the ATS concept but it sounds like a lot of maintenance and I never really thought about it for smaller tanks. I think Inland Aquatics in Terre Haute, Indiana is a big proponent of ATS.
Thanks. It's my pleasure.
I'm traveling this week, but will try to post this weekend.
The ATS knocks the nitrates and phosphates in my tank down to unmeasurable levels, or at least unmeasurable with Salifert kits. The maintenance is not real bad, but it is an issue. Every weekend I've got to turn off the return (that feeds the ATS off a Y), unscrew the PVC that hold in the screen, remove it, and take the screen to a sink for cleaning, clean, then hook it all back up.
Common practice is to clean the screen every week. I only clean 1/2 of it. IMO that keeps the rate of algae growth (and N and P uptake) more consistent than starting with a completely clean screen every week.
Also, my screen is one-sided, unlike the usual two sided. To some extent that reduces the work a little bit. Overall, it takes 5-10 minutes a week. Here's a pick of the algae I scraped of 1/2 of the screen last weekend.
I pull something like that off every weekend. Easily scrapes right off the screen in a solid piece with an old credit card.
I'll get some pics of the ATS this weekend. And FWIW, I'm not in the camp of people that think an ATS is a substitute for skimmers, or can allow you to use tap water instead of RO/DI, or eliminates the need for water changes, or any of the other of the wild claims made by some. To me my ATS is no different than running a ball of chaeto in your sump. Exept that an ATS is more like chaeto on steroids.
Oh, almost forgot... it has the added value of being a massive breeding ground for pods. A nice side benefit.
I'll have to check that space question when I get home this weekend. There's a great thread called Algae Scrubber Basics that you should check for more info. But if you do, start at the beginning but after 5 or 10 pages you should skip to the end. There is a post toward the end that summarizes where all the good content is. It's a monster thread.
My scrubber is not as big as most you will see in that thread. That's because I'm only lighting one side of my screen. A bit unusual, but it saves space. And I'm using a DIY LED light for it. I set that up when conventional wisdom said LEDs were unproven. That too saves a lot of space too, not to mention does not create a lot of heat.
Will get measurements and pics this weekend.
My scrubber is not as big as most you will see in that thread. That's because I'm only lighting one side of my screen. A bit unusual, but it saves space. And I'm using a DIY LED light for it. I set that up when conventional wisdom said LEDs were unproven. That too saves a lot of space too, not to mention does not create a lot of heat.
Will get measurements and pics this weekend.
OK, here's the lowdown on my ATS...
My Tunze 9002 collection cup normally obscures this view, but is removed for these pics.
My ATS consists of four DIY parts:
Placement in my sump is simple. Everything hangs from hooks. The LED has hooks mounted to it, that hang from screws on the inside side of the stand, making it sit nearly flush with the sump wall. A few inches away hangs the splash guard. And nestled inside the splash guard is hangs the algae mat. The surface of the LEDs is 3 and 1/2" away from the algae mat. Further will reduce growth. Closer may burn the algae. That is a critical dimension. I'd guess a tolerance of +/- 3/4". But that's just a guess.
As previously mentioned, the typical ATS has water flowing down both sides of the mat. It's simpler, but it takes more room because it means lighting both sides of the mat, and algae growing on both sides. I went with water and light on one side only to reduce room in the sump. And with my powered by my return, it need to be over-sized to accommodate this extra flow need. You can just as easily feed the ATS mat with its own dedicated pump. Or even have it fed by your drain. They all work.
Here's the algae mat, removed for cleaning.
And the splash guard, right after cleaning this morning. It needs a good 60 second cleaning every few months.
This is obviously scalable. Mine works for a light-moderately fed 40g system. Other sizing info can be found in the thread I previously referenced - revised sizing info toward the back. But what I have works. If you had a system that was 80g in total you could make a mat that was 16" wide by 6" deep (not submerged) with 24 Cree XREs (WC and/or NW) placed 3.5" from the mat, with 600 GPH water flowing across that mat. You'd grow algae like nobody's business.
I previously mentioned pod growth as a side benefit. Here's one I pulled out as I was cleaning it today. It's all curled up, and looks like only 6 mm, but stretched out it's 10+ mm - a big boy. I get this an many more to go into my DT at every cleaning. Though it's likely unnecessary is their tiny progeny are reputed to be washed off the mat, and pushed to the DT through the return.
You can go nuts building an ATS, but I tried to observe KISS, and it has worked out well. If I ever lose my LED array from splashing I'll make a splash guard for it too. But for the last 6-9 months having the splash guard in front of - and along the side of - the mat seems to work just fine.
Its too bad I have cyano right now, because I cannot attribute my current zero readings for NO3 and PO4 to the ATS. But it did it for my old tank, and as soon as I get past this "new tank syndrome" with no more cyano, I'm absolutely certain I'll be able to show you both zero readings, and an algae free tank. Except for in the ATS that is.
My Tunze 9002 collection cup normally obscures this view, but is removed for these pics.
My ATS consists of four DIY parts:
- The LED Light - 12 LEDs mounted to a heatsink. My LEDs are a mix of 9 or 10 Cree XR-E's mostly Cool White, sprinkled with Warm White. I've also got 2-3 Osram 660 nm deep reds. They are powered with a Mean Well LPC-35-700 constant current driver. FWIW, I had a previous all XRE Cool Whites that I spilled water on (bad idea). It worked very well also. Current thinking is that you need all Osram 660 nm deep reds. This proves otherwise.
- The Algae Mat - This is sheet of nylon hobby screen (normally used for knitting or crocheting I think) inserted into a modified piece of PVC. The screen was massively, manually, abraded with a hole saw bit to rough it up allowing algae a better chance to adhere. The screen is inserted into a slot cut into the PVC, and remains there because of a couple of nylon cable ties to secure it. Water pours out of the PVC onto the screen, keeping the algae under a flow of roughtly 300 GPH. The portion of the mat that is not submerged, getting most of the light, is 8" wide by 6" high.
- The Plumbing - This is just a piece of 3/4" PVC with a slit cut long enough for the screen to be inserted, roughly 8" long. The width of the slit is rather important, and I don't recall its width. But pls check this monster thread for details on building one yourself. The PVC is capped on one end, and the other is supplied water by a "T" off my return. I've installed a gate valve on that "T" to better control the rate of flow to the algae mat. And to help remove the algae mat for weekly cleaning, I put a union on the PVC connecting it to the line that feeds it water. And that line is not hard PVC. It's flexible - reduces vibration and helps removal.
- The Splash Guard - This is just a 3-sided piece of acrylic that goes between the algae mat and the LEDs. Splashing salt water it bad for LEDs. . I bought my acrylic from Ridout Plastics, who will cut the pieces for you for little to nothing. The pieces needed to be bonded with IPS Weld-on #4, which they also sell. You might also get a plexiglass drill bit to make the holes for hanging, though a wood bit might work too.
Placement in my sump is simple. Everything hangs from hooks. The LED has hooks mounted to it, that hang from screws on the inside side of the stand, making it sit nearly flush with the sump wall. A few inches away hangs the splash guard. And nestled inside the splash guard is hangs the algae mat. The surface of the LEDs is 3 and 1/2" away from the algae mat. Further will reduce growth. Closer may burn the algae. That is a critical dimension. I'd guess a tolerance of +/- 3/4". But that's just a guess.
As previously mentioned, the typical ATS has water flowing down both sides of the mat. It's simpler, but it takes more room because it means lighting both sides of the mat, and algae growing on both sides. I went with water and light on one side only to reduce room in the sump. And with my powered by my return, it need to be over-sized to accommodate this extra flow need. You can just as easily feed the ATS mat with its own dedicated pump. Or even have it fed by your drain. They all work.
Here's the algae mat, removed for cleaning.
And the splash guard, right after cleaning this morning. It needs a good 60 second cleaning every few months.
This is obviously scalable. Mine works for a light-moderately fed 40g system. Other sizing info can be found in the thread I previously referenced - revised sizing info toward the back. But what I have works. If you had a system that was 80g in total you could make a mat that was 16" wide by 6" deep (not submerged) with 24 Cree XREs (WC and/or NW) placed 3.5" from the mat, with 600 GPH water flowing across that mat. You'd grow algae like nobody's business.
I previously mentioned pod growth as a side benefit. Here's one I pulled out as I was cleaning it today. It's all curled up, and looks like only 6 mm, but stretched out it's 10+ mm - a big boy. I get this an many more to go into my DT at every cleaning. Though it's likely unnecessary is their tiny progeny are reputed to be washed off the mat, and pushed to the DT through the return.
You can go nuts building an ATS, but I tried to observe KISS, and it has worked out well. If I ever lose my LED array from splashing I'll make a splash guard for it too. But for the last 6-9 months having the splash guard in front of - and along the side of - the mat seems to work just fine.
Its too bad I have cyano right now, because I cannot attribute my current zero readings for NO3 and PO4 to the ATS. But it did it for my old tank, and as soon as I get past this "new tank syndrome" with no more cyano, I'm absolutely certain I'll be able to show you both zero readings, and an algae free tank. Except for in the ATS that is.
