"Sealed" sump = easy water changes

[hmmhmm]

Has anyone done a sealed sump?

meaning, can you keep a volume of water inside your stand in a sealed container.

my idea is to have an inline pump to pull water out of the display and push it through the "sealed" sump.

using barbed hose fittings and t-valves, you could close the valves and remove the sealed sump to "hot swap" it with another sealed sump with freash saltwater as if doing a quick water change.

does this sound like it would work?

 

[jenglish]

sounds like more work than a bucket change to me. You are going to lose some evaporative cooling and gas exchange.

 

[luv951]

Its an interesting idea, but impractical. A sump filled with 10 gallons of water would weight 83 pounds. Would not want it to be glass for sure, and I would hesitate to even try picking up an acrylic tank like that. Not to mention, it would be hard as heck getting it up off the floor of your stand.

 

[hmmhmm]

i guess i should mention it would be used on my 29gal BC..so i could use a 3 to 5 gal chamber...which would fit inside my stock stand...guess its almost like a ATO unit that runs 24/7...should the pump be inline before or after the chamber?

 

[Drag Racer]

Sounds like a clear canister filter to me. I think canister filters suck from the tank and push it back all in the same motion. You will still have evaporation, your display level will go down. This means you have to have your ATO float mounted in your main display.

 

[hmmhmm]

yeah im ok with the evap...just pondering a way to do quicker water changes...

 

[shelburn61]

I don't see the advantage over a standard sump with a drain valve. open the valve, drain the sump, refill, done.

 

[MSU Fan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13877312#post13877312 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Drag Racer
Sounds like a clear canister filter to me. I think canister filters suck from the tank and push it back all in the same motion. You will still have evaporation, your display level will go down. This means you have to have your ATO float mounted in your main display.

But this is on a BC29, so place the "canister" output into the main display area, but the suction intake into the back chambers (either chambers 2 or 3). That way, the evap is still in the back chambers and the display and "canister" stays full.

 

[hmmhmm]

MSU fan, thats exactly how i see it...

i think i can find a water storage container and make this happen...

 

[kcress]

You will never get it to seal.
And a tiny leak would drain your display.

 

[scaryperson27]

I wouldn't even attempt this

 

[Drag Racer]

me either.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I don't get it (I mean I get the idea, but not all the trouble).

Why not use a conventional sump with a drain? Turn off the return pump and drain the sump. Fill it back up and restart the return pump. Same concept, less hassle and less risk.

 

[captain7359]

You can't do it. Once you seal the sump and the water is flowing you will have a 4' high tank that only has 1/4" thick glass. The water pressure in the pipes now makes that sump feel all the pressure from the top of the water in the display all the way down to the floor. I think I seen this attempted before and it lasted about a day till the sump cracked and emptied.

 

[BeanAnimal]

You are correct, placing the sump into a sealed loop will expose it to the full head pressure based on the height of the tank surface.

 

[hmmhmm]

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=11943&product_id=11950

so a container like this 2 1/2gal, fitted with barbed fittings (one input and one output) and using tubing is going to be under so much pressure is going to crack? i'm not looking for a 30gal typical sump...

i want an extra chamber of water that i can "hotswap" with another fresh batch of saltwater...

what if the pump was put to the return line, it would simply suck water up back into my rear chambers right?

 

[captain7359]

That stands more of a chance than a glass tank working. I would use something heavier than the ones you showed if they are the thin wall ones.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...e=USPlastic&category_name=10&product_id=12696

Looks like the nalgene ones might be a bit heavier.

Just remember whatever you use has to be able to withstand the head pressure put on it by the full height of water above it.

 

[BeanAnimal]

0.44 PSI per foot of head. I would imagine that the water level in your tank will be 3-5 feet from the bottom of the "sump".

So 1.5-2 PSI or so. The container you linked to will look like pregnant guppy at 2 PSI.

There are certainly containers suitable for the purpose. I think the point people are trying to make is that you are going through a lot of trouble to accompolish something rather simple

 

[21Reefman]

What about an RO Pressure tank?

Although I agree it seems like a closed sump is the wrong solution.

Why not just add the same container plumbed in above the sump. Add the needed valves to only use it when doing the water change. Then it stays simple.

 

[laverda]

A canister filter is basicly what your talking about except without any media in it. Clearly that can be done reliably and trouble free. But I agree I don't see the point. It is so easy to do a water change on a tank this size.