Seapug's 200 Gallon Marineland DD Peninsula build

seapug

Premium Member
After 5 years of service that provided me moments of joy and tears, frustrations and successes along with moments of incredible beauty as well as complete disgust, it had become time for my old 90 gallon to retire.

Hasty setup decisions made early on had started to come back to bite me (plumbing, bad stand) and my tank was starting to show signs of what is commonly referred to as "Old Tank syndrome." Though the tank was algae free and generally stable and healthy, the sand bed had become detritus loaded and I started to have issues with RTN on my SPS corals and mysterious losses of some of my most prized Zoanthid and LPS corals.

To complicate matters, the reef had grown so much it was becoming increasingly difficult to keep clean without causing a complete avalanche. As a married guy with two young children, a job and a home to maintain, the time required to "fix" this tank was hard to come by, and some issues were simply "unfixable" without completely draining and rebuilding the setup. If I was going to do have to do that, I wanted a new tank (and larger, of course ;)).

Here are some of the last photos taken of the 90 gallon before things started going downhill:
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One of my greatest complaints about the 90 gallon was the 18" width of the tank. the 4 ft. length made a nice peninsular room divider, but the 18" simply didn't give me the room I needed to create the aquascape I envisioned, so I decided on a custom Marineland 200 gallon DD (48" X 36" X 27") with dual megaflow overflows on one end. This gave me the same length as the 90 gallon but was twice as wide and 3 inches taller. The Marineland DD tanks also come with a single pane of Sarfire glass, black silicone and a much nicer finished trim around the top brace of the tank. They are much nicer looking and better constructed tanks than the AGA I had before. It was going to take about a month to have the custom tank built and delivered, so in the meantime I needed to figure out how I was going to pull this whole thing off.

The Build:

The 90 gallon tank was set up as a peninsula with a 40 gallon breeder inline refugium against the wall perpendicular to the display. A PVC pipe ran from the HOB overflow on the display to the refugium, and a drain from the fuge ran to a small sump in a cabinet below it that contained the return, heaters, ATO, reactors, etc. The new tank was going to be set up right next to the 90 gallon, so this plumbing needed to be removed and the refugium moved out of the way to make space for the new tank. I shut off the return pump, disconnected the plumbing and overflow and attached HOB power filters to both the display and refugium. I drained all the water from the refugium except for the middle "fuge" compartment and carefully (painfully) lifted it onto a workbench set up next to it.

A major concern for me in setting up this tank as the 3/4 inch slope from the wall that I had shoddily addressed using multiple shims under the 90 gallon. After 5 years, these were causing visible stress on the stand and simply looked crappy to me.

For this new tank, I needed a much better solution. After much deliberation over possible ways to do this without hiring a pro to pour a concrete slab that I would probably have to jackhammer out if we ever had to sell the house and move, I decided to remove a section of carpeting that matched the footprint of the new stand and build a wood "platform" using cut 2 X 4s and plywood. The long-run 2 X 4s were cut lengthwise from 1" to 1 3/4" height to create a reverse slope to compensate for the floor. Cross members were added for support across the middle and I added a plywood cap for even support. Here's what it looked like after putting the tanks on life support and building the leveling platform:
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With that complete, the next step was the plumbing. For this new tank, I wanted to simplify things using an external pump I could also use to plumb to my carbon reactor or possibly a calcium reactor or external protein skimmer down the line. At the advice of my LFS, I they ordered me a Blueline 55 HD pressure pump. Here's the pump and initial plumbing build:
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After about 6 weeks, the tank and dry sand was delivered by the LFS and put in place. While they were here, I also had them help me put the fuge in the stand (my wife refused to help me after hurting her back while helping me move the fuge the first time). The sand was given a quick rinse outside with a bucket and hose then added to the tank:
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Of course, my 4 year old just HAD to get in the tank and pretend to be a fish:
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Next step was completing the plumbing. I decided to build a "mainfold" off the return pump to split the output into two lines to the returns with individual ball and gate valves so flow could be individually adjusted or shut off completely to each one if needed. I also added a T that splits off to the carbon reactor with it's own ball and gate valve Here's what it looked like when complete and installed:

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I also installed the LED lighting for the refugium by using screws and industrial strength velcro to attach the strips to the ceiling of the stand:
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With the plumbing complete, it was time to fill the tank and prepare for the livestock transfer from the 90 gallon. I had the LFS deliver 100 gallons of new water and made 50 gallons of my own. The remaining water was siphoned from the existing 90 gallon once the livestock was transferred over.

Trashbag and bowl placed in the bottom to prevent a sandstorm during filling (works very well):
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Water added:
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I added a power head, heater and a couple rocks from the existing tank and let it run for a couple of days to do some initial seeding, then the time came for the final filling and livestock transfer. All the corals and rocks were removed and most of the water was siphoned out so the fish could easily be netted and transferred:
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Now it came time to dial in the plumbing.

It's often said that "reef ready" tanks aren't truly reef ready. I can confirm that. Every pump and plumbing system has it's own problems and effects on the circulation of the tank.

The first problem I encountered was a couple inevitable drip leaks in the return plumbing. One required complete replacement of the union on the pump and most of the others were solved with some epoxy on a couple PVC joints. There is still one VERY slow, yet persistent drip located in a section of the return plumbing I haven't been able to access, but a washcloth wrapped around the problem area is working for now :lolspin:.

The next problem was surging overflows that caused noise like a flushing toilet and splashing in the sump. This is caused by inadequate air entering the standpipe via the siphon break airhole one the top of the standpipe cap. This is solved by drilling out those holes in small increments until the flushing stops. Once I drilled them out to 5/8 inch and added a short piece of airline tubing, the flushing stopped.

Once that problem was solved, I had an issue with "burping" coming from the outlets on the drainpipes in the sump. Apart from the noise, it was causing splashing that was causing major salt creep issues all over the sump and surrounding plumbing. It's often advised to not let the drains extend too far under the surface of the water in the sump to prevent this, but it was still happening to me with the drains less than 1" sumberged. After much, I found this to be a problem with drains that are straight vertical drops. Due to the location of the overflows and space constraints in the stand, my drains made a straight vertical drop directly from the bulkhead to the sump. I solved that problem by inserting the ends of the drain hoses into 1 1/2 threaded pvc elbows and situating the outlet just below the surface of the water in the sump. This prevents the cycle of air pressure buildup and release that was causing the burping in the direct vertical drop arrangement.

Looks a bit rinky-dink but worked perfect for me. The fans in the lights are louder than the drains now. I ended up using 90 degree elbows but here's an example using a 45 elbow:
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With all the kinks worked out, it's now time for the fun part-- aquascaping and arrangement of the new tank. I'm still refining many aspects of the aquascape (is it ever really done?), but below some photos of how it's looking now. These photos are taken using my tablet so the color rendition is pretty awful, but they will do until I can get some higher quality photos using my wife's pro camera. Enjoy:

Starting "under the hood" with the sump and refugium:
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And the display:
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Stay tuned for more updates!
 
I loved the 90g and I'm sure that this one's gonna be even better :)

Any livestock losses during the transfer?
 
How and where did you order the deep dimension marineland tank? do they normally do custom work?
 
I ordered it through my LFS. Marineland does custom work for a relatively small additional cost, it just takes about 6 weeks.
 
Yes it is. So nice to have clean sand, open space for new corals and a stand that doesn't look like it's about to collapse.
 
You did a very nice job, but I had no doubt that you would. :-)

I hate moving tanks, I have done it 5 or 6 times in 5 years. We just bought a second house and will eventually retire there and I just moved the 110 for the last time. I took this opportunity to do just as you have done...correcting the flaws from the previous setup. I think you did an outstanding job on the move.
 
Thanks, sirreal! It really was a ton of work pulling this off (can't actually believe I managed to do it), but well worth it in the end. I'm really looking forward to growing this one in over the coming years.
 
I am still in the "pulling it off" stage, I finally managed the endless amount of wires, Tunze pucks and drivers, reactor placement, controller placement and now only a few wires are visible. When I bought the tank, I thought the 40x40 dimension would be awesome, but now I find it to be a pain in many ways, but I still love it. I worked for a solid week on just the wiring but the tank is now filling with water.

I always enjoy seeing someone do a proper tank exchange. I usually stay out of build threads but had to give props for someone doing it right. Nice work on the floor leveling solution, so few people go to that length, but it is the right way to do it. I am impressed.
 
Well, I liked the old one, but the new one is shaping up even nicer. It sounds like a LOT of work, but now the fun part starts.

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It's still cruising along just fine, thanks for asking. I started a new Zoanthid garden on a rock bridge in the fornt with a bunch of starts from Coral Morphologic and I've gradually tweaking the aquascape a bit. My male Bengaii is carrying eggs that should be ready within the next week or two, so I'm quite excited about that. Still very pleased with the tank. I need to get some good closeups but below a couple full tank shots from a couple weeks ago. The algae on the overflows in these photos has started to subside (new black plastic is an algae magnet at first) and coralline is taking over in its place, so that's a good sign.

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This is an awesome looking set up. I had the same tank at one point only with the stock rear overflow layout. I really like how you went with the peninsula set up. Awesome view from both sides. Lots of open room. Great job!

Jason
 
After recently losing my giant watermelon chalice due to an unfortunate breif encounter with the sweeper tentacles from a Platygrya I decided it was time to do some rearranging of the tank. The previous aquascape was starting to bore me a bit so I wanted to do something to break up the "slope" and make better use of the depth of the tank. Breaking up the slope and adding some tall pillars really made an improvement. The fish really seem to like it, too. Some of the smaller fish that used to hide a lot are now our cruising the rocks. I think the dry rock pillar is going to become a Zoanthid tower.

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