Sebae anemone care? Same level as BTA?

Here is a picture of my sebae.
I would call it more pink but could see someone calling it brown.
I agree, most of the ones I see in LFS are chalky white. I searched a LONG time online to try and find a picture of a healthy sebae. I thought mine was sick because it wasn't white and puffy.

What kind of wattage do you have on your T5 lights?
Mine is under 2x175W 14k Hamilton Metal Halides and loves it.
55g tank for size reference. lol He's huge!

sebae.jpg
 
Victor! You have to post a FTS so everyone can see how the rest of your tank is leaning away from your Pet! Sorry I just HAD to say it. :D :rollface:
 
wow thats a nice look sebea, btw those are ocellaris right?

Man something is really puzzling me, I have had clowns in the pass and they were fine ahd healthy. My last pairs were ocellaris. But recently since I added the sebea, I decided to buy a pair of black saddle backs. They were healthy when I bought them and they took to the nem right away. But the odd thing is the next day they were covered with white slimy patches and after that they wouldn't eat and eventually died. After that I tried again and the same thing happened. IS the sebea releasing something thats causing the clowns to develop this white patch film stuff? Because both times after the clowns took to the nem the next day they'd be covered with the white stuff.

So I guess I will hold off on getting clowns. Because I have no idea why the clowns are getting that white stuff. And it seems that after they take the nem the next day they will have that stuff...
 
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H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.
 
H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.

My Crispa just hit a year, compared to the BTA, Haddoni and Magnifica it seems to have definitely been easier.
 
I have had my crispa for 4 years. Bought it at Petco (yeah I know) for $20 and it was about 2 inches in diameter and bleached. It has been in three tanks now and is going great. The last move was into a 29 biocube as I am breaking down my bigger tank so it bleached a little at the tips while I was in the process of updating the lights, but it back to normal now. It is the only nem I have been able to keep alive as I have had several BTAs that disappeared in my other two tanks over the years.

 
H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.

I think you are confusing a bunch of anemones with each other here.

First, a H. sebae does not exist.

Second, Heteractis crispa (Leathery Anemone) and Heteractis magifica (Magnificent or Ritteri Anemone) are hardly to confuse with each other, not just by looks, coloring and the texture of their tissue but also by behavior - H. magnifica will always try to go to the highest spot in the tank and often end up on the front pane of the tank.
H. magnifica is due to this behavior and bacterial infections one of the most difficult anemones to keep alive in an aquarium.

I think H. malu is the anemone that usually is called Sebae anemone despite not being a natural host for A. sebae (neither is H. crispa). H. malu is very easily confused with H. crispa as a small crispa or one in bad shape can look almost identical to a malu, right down to the color and the purple tips.

H. crispa, if not totally bleached, and colored back up can be very hardy. I kept one for several years in the mid 80s. Back then I was lucky that my bleached crispa picked up some Zooxanthellae from a neighboring anthelia colony and fully regained it's color and then tripled in size. The one I have right now is completely bleached and hasn't regained any color within 3 months. Due to that it started shrinking and I'm not sure if I can still turn it around.

The problem with crispas is that they arrive to 90% bleached at stores.
Even worse, often they bleached already at the exporter and some of those then find it a good idea to dye them in yellow, red or any other color of the rainbow. Any of those is most certainly doomed.
 
I have had my crispa for 4 years. Bought it at Petco (yeah I know) for $20 and it was about 2 inches in diameter and bleached. It has been in three tanks now and is going great. The last move was into a 29 biocube as I am breaking down my bigger tank so it bleached a little at the tips while I was in the process of updating the lights, but it back to normal now. It is the only nem I have been able to keep alive as I have had several BTAs that disappeared in my other two tanks over the years.


I'm not only me, I've had a tougher time with BTA than the Crispa also. I wonder if it's because the BTA has a harder time finding a sweet spot in the tank and getting adjusted to the flow and lighting. Haddoni, Mag and Crispa have all done better than the BTA in the last year.
 
I had an H.crispa for 6 months before i sold it and it stayed the whole time almost in the same spot. It ate magnificently shrimps and squid every other day and doubled in size in 2 months. However, after I introduced a GBTA after 3 months and a haddoni after 5 months the H.crispa stopped eating and seemed to shrink in size. Was it due to the chemical warfare between the 3 or was it because it was bleached when I got it and it hadn't regained its colour, who knows?

The GBTA I had moved around for a whole month before settling. It also ate like a pig and doubled in size in two months. After that it would move around on the slightest excuse.

In my experience the H.crispa was easier to keep from the beginning but was affected later by a lack of zooxanthellae or chemical warfare whereas the BTA didn't seem to be affected by the chemicals from the H.crispa and fared better in the end.
 
I had an H.crispa for 6 months before i sold it and it stayed the whole time almost in the same spot. It ate magnificently shrimps and squid every other day and doubled in size in 2 months. However, after I introduced a GBTA after 3 months and a haddoni after 5 months the H.crispa stopped eating and seemed to shrink in size. Was it due to the chemical warfare between the 3 or was it because it was bleached when I got it and it hadn't regained its colour, who knows?

The GBTA I had moved around for a whole month before settling. It also ate like a pig and doubled in size in two months. After that it would move around on the slightest excuse.

In my experience the H.crispa was easier to keep from the beginning but was affected later by a lack of zooxanthellae or chemical warfare whereas the BTA didn't seem to be affected by the chemicals from the H.crispa and fared better in the end.

It was because it was bleached - a bleached anemone may do OK for a while but in the long run it won't survive unless it takes up Zooxanthellae again.
 
i was ofc talking about the H.malu not H.crispa being impossible for me at least to keep.

Malu white is often offered from LFS very cheap anemone but very hard to keep.
 
i was ofc talking about the H.malu not H.crispa being impossible for me at least to keep.

Malu white is often offered from LFS very cheap anemone but very hard to keep.
Divers den gets good ones in great condition.
 
Divers den gets good ones in great condition.

Sure they are but the thing is im in iceland :)
We get our stuff from TMC and Dejong.

Geting stuff from a new supplier and have a Gigantea ordered.
Interested to see how that turns out. had to re-range my tank for it
 
Iceland

Iceland

Sure they are but the thing is im in iceland :)
We get our stuff from TMC and Dejong.

Geting stuff from a new supplier and have a Gigantea ordered.
Interested to see how that turns out. had to re-range my tank for it


Are you and Eskimo :)
 
I'm with the majority here that H. crispa are easy to keep. Mine was also a cheap bleached Petco buy. Had the usual very short stubby tentacles like a malu but eventually had insanely long ones and was tan/brown. Grew from a coffee cup to a dinner plate in 6 months and had to be rehomed. It was under PC lighting.

Pretty sure it ate a bubble tip also. Had one introduced and disappear overnight. The tank was small so a dead bta would have meant a total catastrophe. Took months but my tank bred occys took it as home.
 

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