self leveling epoxy for in wall stand

[mth1993]

I have an in wall stand that got wet when my 215 split seam. The stand is still solid and level, but some of the 3/4" plywood is getting a bit wavy when it dried. It is wavy only in the center area where it does not come in contact with the tank frame. I sanded it down, but want to seal the whole thing in epoxy like bean animal did. I have looked at a number different epoxies and wondered if anyone has experience with the following:

1. UltraClear Bar and Table Top Epoxy from best bar top epoxy dot com. $80 for 16 sqft at 1/8" max thickness per coat 1/8", 1:1 resin to harder ratio, 1 gallon

2. MAS LOW VISCOSITY EPOXY RESIN, 600 cps viscosity, 2:1 resin to harder ratio, 1.5 gallon $209 or .75 gallon $121

3. U.S. Composites Kote Table Top Epoxy $40 for 16 sqft at 1/8" max thickness per coat 1/8", 1:1 resin to harder ratio, 1 gallon

I am looking for which one is the thinnest and least likely to pull up on the edges if I line it with wax paper. The stand has about .25" extra space on each side so I am concerned about a possible lip.

I am leaning towards #2 but I cannot find any info on coverage and am not sure if it is worth the extra cost.

Any feedback or other suggestions are appreciated.

 

[carpas]

I would expect #2 to have 50% more coverage since you have 50% more material and I don't believe you are losing any to evaporation.

I haven't used any of the epoxies you have listed, but I have used US Composites 635 (among others) and have been happy with it. Pay attention to the to the hardener descriptions since you can have improper cures if the temperature is too low. I've had pieces come out with tacky spots that I attribute to not being warm enough when I know I mixed it well enough. The 635 has the same cps as your Option 2. I wouldn't think you would want to use their Kleer Kote since you stated wanting a thinner epoxy and that stuff is thick.

I've used blue painters tape as a dam and it usually peels off pretty easily. The most likely trouble spot is where two pieces of tape overlap I've occasionally gotten a bit of seepage but it can be cleaned up with some sandpaper. I would brush on a thin coat to seal the plywood and then do a thick pour, or series of pours, for the second coat. You can use a brush or something like an old credit card to spread out the epoxy. It can be tricky getting the epoxy right up to the tape without getting a little lip that needed knocking down, but if you're careful to not shove too much material up against the border you'll probably be ok.

 

[mth1993]

Thank you for the detailed response.

I had not thought of the 635 for the project thank you for the suggestion.

Good call in the warning about temp, tomorrow we are going to have a high of 16, the house will be nice an warm at 70 but that is below the slow set hardener requirements of 80.

Based on your info I am leaning towards the following, purchase 2.7 gallons of the 635 with medium hardener for $128. When applying I will raise the house temp to 75 (expensive plus will annoy the kids and wife). Based on your experience with 635 how thick of float coats do you think I can apply?

Any other input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RandysReefTank]

When applying I will raise the house temp to 75 (expensive plus will annoy the kids and wife).

Do you have a space heater of some kind you could put in the work room so you are only heating that one room instead of the entire house? You could keep the heater for that room also to keep the temp up in the winter time instead of turning the thermostat up on the entire house.

 

[mth1993]

I am concerned that using a space heater would be bad since the flash Pont of the epoxy of 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The stand is in wall in a 14*24 living room. I was planning on having g the room ceiling fan on high and the fish room/closet (only 6" larger than the stand but 10' tall) 400 can outside vented exhaust fan on high.

If I could use a space heater that would be great but I am leaning against it.

 

[jerpa]

I'd use an oil-filled radiator space heater. I agree with not using something with an exposed element. I've found several cases of people using the Thin 635 in temperatures below 75 with the slow hardener when building plywood tanks. The results were fine but the cure time was significantly lengthened. Keep in mind the medium hardener will blush so it will be a bit more labor intensive.

BTW can we trade wives because I'm not allowed to keep it below 75. It hurts $$$.

 

[mth1993]

Wow 75 that has to hurt.

Since this is going to be under the tank I was not worried about blushing because I thought it was only cosmetic. I that true?

 

[carpas]

As long as you don't need to put another coat on, I don't see why you would need to remove the blush.

Maybe I missed it, but how big is your stand? Your question about how thick you can make each coat depends in part on how much you can reasonably mix up during the pot life. Epoxy will cure much faster in a mixing cup then once it is spread out. I've probably gone close to 1/4" in one shot without any trouble.

I believe the 1/8" per coat limit you see on table top epoxies is because they are assuming you are letting excess material just run off the piece. So even if you add more epoxy it will just end up on the floor.

 

[mth1993]

The stand is 73*25.4. I plan on using a blue painters tape dam (hopefully one continues pice) on 3 sides and there is a drywall lip on the final side.

 

[carpas]

The stand is 73*25.4. I plan on using a blue painters tape dam (hopefully one continues pice) on 3 sides and there is a drywall lip on the final side.

Based on that, I think you're in good shape getting two 1-gallon epoxy kits with whatever hardener best suits you. This will give you plenty to complete your project with room to spare. It's a drag to run out early and have to wait for more to come in the mail! I would recommend a test run on maybe a two square foot piece of plywood just to get used to it.

 

[leveldrummer]

Replace the plywood top, if it soaked enough water to become wavy, then its possible the edges have been compromised and the tank wont sit properly on it. Is it really worth the risk involved to save the bit of work? or the minimum amount of money for a sheet of plywood?

And once its done, you might want to try the rubberized membrane that you paint on behind tile when you install a bathroom, it makes a very good seal and vapor barrier.

This is the stuff Im talking about...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...ention-Membrane-1-Gal-LQWAF1/100169081?N=c37h