You have an ideal environment for cyano - high phosphates and no nitrates. Reeflux (fluconazole) is primarily effective against bryopsis (permanently) and derbersia (temporarily) and maybe a few other green algaes but it's far from a panacea and definitely does nothing to cyano.
A course of action could be:
1. reduce your phosphates as @zachts suggested with a product like phosban. It needs to be done gradually or everything including coral will suffer. Target under .1ppm, preferably .05 but never zero.
2. Concurrently start raising your nitrates with a dosing product such as Brightwell Neonitro or ESV B-Ionic nitrate. Target 5 to 10ppm using their dosing guidelines. It's often suggested to do this naturally with more feeding but that will definitely work against us for phosphates as well. Raising the nitrates helps competing microorganisms take up space that the cyano wants.
3. Continue to suck out as much cyano at each water change as possible. When phosphate and nitrate have been brought into the target range, if cyano continues to dominate - nail it with chemiclean or similar product. Don't do this first - it will just rock the system and since the underlying imbalance still exists, the cyano will come back with a vengeance.
You might want to get your own test kits. Hanna checkers and Salifert test kits are both solid options but there are other good choices. Generally API test kits are considered inferior by hobbiests. Also, what foods are you feeding your fish now and how often?
A course of action could be:
1. reduce your phosphates as @zachts suggested with a product like phosban. It needs to be done gradually or everything including coral will suffer. Target under .1ppm, preferably .05 but never zero.
2. Concurrently start raising your nitrates with a dosing product such as Brightwell Neonitro or ESV B-Ionic nitrate. Target 5 to 10ppm using their dosing guidelines. It's often suggested to do this naturally with more feeding but that will definitely work against us for phosphates as well. Raising the nitrates helps competing microorganisms take up space that the cyano wants.
3. Continue to suck out as much cyano at each water change as possible. When phosphate and nitrate have been brought into the target range, if cyano continues to dominate - nail it with chemiclean or similar product. Don't do this first - it will just rock the system and since the underlying imbalance still exists, the cyano will come back with a vengeance.
You might want to get your own test kits. Hanna checkers and Salifert test kits are both solid options but there are other good choices. Generally API test kits are considered inferior by hobbiests. Also, what foods are you feeding your fish now and how often?
