Setting up first drilled tank, need plumbing help

[DamnPepShrimp]

Hey everyone, I am going to get a 75g RR tank today, I plan on setting it up as a nice reef again. The tank has a built in overflow but none of the piping or plumbing. I guess I am going to have to make many trips to home depot getting everything I need. I was just wondering if anyone could give me a few pointers and help to minimize my trips and frustration? Do I need a bulkhead to go in the bottom of the overflow, then just attach the pvc piping to the sump. My current pump has clear flexible tubing on it, I don't think it can accept pvc. So should I get a fitting that connects the tubing to the pvc? Also for the return, it comes through the overflow I'm assuming like most tanks, but I'll need to get a special flex return spout? And is non toxic pvc glue ok to use from home depot? Thanks for the help! I'd love to know what you guys used and how you did everything, thanks.

 

[4n4sd4]

I hard plumbed my Overflow drain line using 1" PVC. I would suggest simply purchasing more than enough 90 degree and 45 degree fittings, you can always return what you don't use, and it is a lot better than making 50 million trips. I also put a ball valve, and a union on my drain line so I could fine tune the drain speed, and as well as separate the plumbing from the tank in the event of needing to clean or change anything out. For my return line i ran 3/4" flexible tubing (black to help cut down on algae growth in the tube) that I got while I was at TFP in Lancaster. I also put a ball valve on that one as well, so I could throttle down my return pump. I picked up a few fittings to fit on the return pump, ball valve, and bulkhead. The fittings have one threaded end, and one barbed end to slip the flex tubing over.

Hope this helps.

 

[Gordonious]

What Andy said sounds good. Especially picking up more then you need at the hardware store and returning stuff later. A combined ball valve unionis nice to have(I use two on my 75), but you might buy the two parts separate to save some money. I would at least use ball valves so you can cut off the flow, the unions you can add later if you leave some space for them.

You don't have to get a special flex return spout(like some lock line), that is just a nice feature so you can point the flow where you want it easily with out risk of leaks. The PVC glue and primers you can get at the hardware stores will be safe. For the inside of the overflox box you may consider doing a durso stand pipe like the ones talked about on <A HREF="http://www.dursostandpipes.com/">this page</A>.(Note the page was down when I checked this afternoon so <A HREF="http://www.aurx.net/saltwater/durso.html">here is the basic idea</A>. I am going to start moving back to Newark in the next couple of days. If you want I can let you know when I move my 75g up so you can come buy and see how I plumbed it.

Let us know if you have any other specific questions. Good luck.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Andy and Jon, thanks for the replies.

I pretty much have everything planned out, I have a line lock for the return, just no directional spout, but no big deal. I don't have a bulkhead or anything to put into the bottom of the drilled 75g. I went to home depot to try to find something, and was about to rig it, but couldn't risk spilling all that water. Do you guys know anywhere I can get one? That isn't online, I need to get this tank set up tomorrow (thursday) because I have to tear my 125g down. Do I need bulkheads or the durso pipes? That link wasn't working either, my monitor sucks and it's really dark, I couldn't see what the other link was. I just that in the top of the overflow the intake tube made a U bend. I am worried about getting a seal between the tubing and the tank for the intake and return lines. Would just fish have them? That is the only place I can think of that is relatively close. I have two holes 1 3/4" (intake) and 1 1/2" (return). I just need to get the bulkhead or whatever fitting and I can just piece the rest of the system together no problem. So if someone knows where I can get these pieces tomorrow, please help! Thanks!

Oh and do I really need ball valves, union valves etc? I don't want to cut back any of the flow, my pump isn't all that big and it is going to be a reef tank. I was just going to run the intake pipe straight down to the sump, and the return the same way, any problems with that? My pump will definitely not over power the overflow and the overflow can't put out any more water then what the pump puts out.

 

[Gordonious]

I may be going to TPP tomorrow, but my parents might be going with me. PM me your cell number again.

I will double check I might have a bulk head you could sell you and then just buy another one for myself when I get to TPP.

The ball valves you would use if you wanted to stop water from coming down from the tank more then cutting down the power. The unions would allow you to clean the insides of the pipe which you'll need to do if your don't have a lot of power in your pump.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

PMed you back jon, I'll PM you my cell number, I'll give you a call tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[kaptken]

you could make a Durso Over flow pipe for the RR out of PVC too to keep it quiet.

 

[tom-annette]

AGA has an overflow plumbing kit available for reef ready tanks with all the parts you need. Megaflow Accessory overflow kit. See the link for details. ECA has this kit in stock so you do not have to go that far to get it. Then all you need is some tubing to connect to your pump.


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produ...ll&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

 

[a1amap]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10565382#post10565382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tom-annette
AGA has an overflow plumbing kit available for reef ready tanks with all the parts you need. Megaflow Accessory overflow kit. See the link for details. ECA has this kit in stock so you do not have to go that far to get it. Then all you need is some tubing to connect to your pump.


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produ...ll&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1

Looks nice but way overpriced. Since it doesn't include the bulkheads you should use it for the design only. If you bought all the fittings and 10 foot pieces of pvc it would run about $15.
The bulkheads will run about $7 each.

 

[4n4sd4]

I know East Coast Aquatics, The Hidden Reef, and Fishman all have bulkheads in stock, at least they did to my last trip to each store.

I thought the Megaflow Kit did come with the appropriate bulkheads. When i bought my tank it came with the same Megaflow package that they sell at the store, and it included the bulkheads, but i guess I would double-check before going home... only to have to turn around and make another trip.

 

[4n4sd4]

Actually from Dr.'s Foster & Smith Site.... the included parts list:

1 - 1" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 1" Insert
1 - Adjustable drainpipe
1 - Air intake elbow
1 - 90° Elbow
1 - Strainer
1 - 3/4" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 3/4" Insert
1 - Return pipe
1 - 3/4" Elbow
1 - Nozzle

 

[a1amap]

Still you can buy all that stuff for way less money at the depot.
Here is another pic

Simple design and will be pretty quiet.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

OK, so that durso overflow just makes the tank quiet right? It looks easy to replicate, but I am not sure what exactly is needed. A simple strainer attached to a U bend attached to a T with a cap on the top, completely closed off? Is that necessary? Also the pipe going to the sump is enlarged halfway down, is that necessary too or can I just run a pipe straight down, same diameter. Anybody know? I just picked up two bulkheads from just fish, $24! They are so expensive! They had some expensive fish in there as well, not to mention a $300 queen angel that had it's eye popping out almost 1" poor poor fish.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

That is exactly what I am going to make, but I just don't know how the top part of the T is. Is it just a cap? Is it vented? Also home depot is garbage! They didn't have any pieces that I needed! Hopefully sears hardware or lowes will. Thanks for the pic Al, I just need to know what the top looks like.

 

[4n4sd4]

Al,

I don't disagree with you it is much cheaper to go the other way, but for some it may be easier to do the megaflow.

The only difference between what Al posted up and the megaflow, is that the megaflow is continually adjustable, not that you even need that. Where you see the different diameter piping is actually where the unit adjusts height.

I have the overflow (simply because it came with my tank), and may look into changing over to a different standpipe to see if I get any better performance.

The top of the durso standpipe is probably just a cap with a hole drilled in it to allow for venting. The cap stops you from hearing any gurgling sound.

 

[Gordonious]

Yeah, the http://www.dursostandpipes.com/ website is working again. Check it out. At the top of the T could be left open and it would still work, the cap helps silence it, but will need some sort of hold in it. Check out the "Popular modifications" page and look at the Air hole and Air valve.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Ok, well I bought everything I need for that set up, but I have a cap. I will just leave the cap off and see how it goes, I don't want to get to ridiculous with the set up, I am going to have to tear it down at the end of the year anyway when I move. Well, today has been a frustrating day, trying to modify an existing 55g stand to fit the 75g, it hasn't been pretty. Hopefully when I get the tank up, the plumbing will go smoothly, but I somehow doubt that.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Ok, well I think I have all the plumbing problems down, thanks jon. Now I was setting up the tank and since it is a corner overflow, the stand is getting in the way of the drilled holes! I have to re build the stand and somehow make it so it doesn't come in contact with the plumbing! What a major PITA! I am not using the standard stand btw, it's a 2x4 homemade stand.

 

[a1amap]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10567477#post10567477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 4n4sd4

The only difference between what Al posted up and the megaflow, is that the megaflow is continually adjustable, not that you even need that. Where you see the different diameter piping is actually where the unit adjusts height.

The top of the durso standpipe is probably just a cap with a hole drilled in it to allow for venting. The cap stops you from hearing any gurgling sound.

I agree with you but was thinking of the money angle. He needed a cheap but very good solution. The only reason the megaflow would need to be adjustable would be for different size tanks as water level is determined by the baffle height. One size fits all.
With making one for his tank he could cut the pvc to the correct height to start.

And yes the top is for noise reduction. Damnpepshrimp you will want to do this or it will sound like a toliet running.

A simple strainer attached to a U bend attached to a T with a cap on the top, completely closed off? Is that necessary?

You dont really need the strainer if you dont have it and the cap should have a small hole.

 

[kaptken]

the secret of a durso overflow to run quiet, is the air vent at the top of the inverted U pipe. it allows it to breath and flow free withouth chugging on vacuum. some DIYs have a section of pvc pipe on the vertical air stand pipe notched in a VEE along with a CAP with a cut SLOT to intersect the VEE. which allows you to fine tune the air flow for silent running by turning the cap.