ShadowRamys 220 Build

[Shadowramy]

Not much today, just leveling the tank.

Leveling The Tank

Today I did the boring task of leveling the tank. Typically I like to do this twice. The first time is with the tank empy. I use composite shim because they tend not to break when you hammer on them. I shim at each upright point (4 corners and 4 mid points). This takes some time going around and around the tank until everything is as perfect as you can get with a level.
These are the shims I use from HD or Lowes.

Typically I work side to side first, the front to back. I always throw an extra shim in there because I know when I level again after the water is in I may use the extra room.

I do not snap off the shims until I get water in the tank. My 4 foot level I know will get me close but the ultimate level is the water line.

Once the water is in, I can re-level again by 'smacking' in the shims then scoring them and breaking them off.

 

[Ed Reef]

You're a brave man to not remove your carpet lol

 

[Shadowramy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15463145#post15463145 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
You're a brave man to not remove your carpet lol

Yes, I didnt want to cut it then try to match it up later if and when I would sell the house. I did use some 3/8" ply where the carpet isnt on the other side.

I can always cut it, what are the negative impacts of not cutting it?

 

[Ed Reef]

With ther weight of the tank, over time the carpet that's under the tank will be 'dead' anyway.

Also with potential spills, etc, the carpet under liner will also rot eventually.

 

[Shadowramy]

OKay I removed the carpet, I guess the carpet is pretty worthless when the tank is filled anyways. So I cut out the carpet, moved then tank, removed the carpet, moved the tank back in and re-leveled.

Also got my plumbing in today from SpaFlex.com

So I went ahead and installed the bulkheads. I like to run a smear of aquarium silicone on the rubber rings for a nice snug fit (even though some people dont like to do this, I guess it just makes me feel a little bit easier doing it).

Not sure what I am going to start on tomorrow, the canopy or do some more plumbing?

 

[Ed Reef]

Coming along nicely. Work on pluming first - this way, if there's any leak, it's easy fix

 

[elijaher]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15469249#post15469249 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Reef
Coming along nicely. Work on pluming first - this way, if there's any leak, it's easy fix

+1

 

[Shadowramy]

Canopy and Lighting

Today I started on my canopy framing. The idea is to build a basic frame and skin it with sheetrock and birrch ply. The birch ply with be for two sliding access doors in the front. Within the frame I will be installing a light rail that just sit on 2x4s and can slide in and out as needed. The drywall will extend to the drop ceiling and the top will be left open with fans installed to remove hot air.

Design

 

[elijaher]

Working on your close loop, I see two ball vavle. Or you going to add more vavle on each output of close loop?

 

[Shadowramy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15481916#post15481916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by elijaher
Working on your close loop, I see two ball vavle. Or you going to add more vavle on each output of close loop?

Yes, two more that will go over the top and will go from back to front and will be aim at the back of the glass (did that make sense)?

 

[da5speed]

Looking good!! What also looking good are the frags I got from you today.

 

[Shadowramy]

Thanks da, it been a ton of work but hoping to get to the fun stuff soon!!

 

[Shadowramy]

More Progress!!

Framing, Kiltzing and Sheetrocking

Pretty much finished up the canopy framing then kiltzed it with 3 coats of paint. Later I will go back with a semi-gloss white and do the inside again.

I figured it was going to take me 3 days with a 75 gpd RO/DI unit so I started filling with some water.

Next day I started the sheetrock and ply skinning. Almost halfway filled with water.

 

[Shadowramy]

Plumbing And Sump Installation

Well today I figured my existing sump of acrylic just might now take it with a 2" bulk head, so Patrick at AW hooked me up with a 90 gallon and even drilled it for me.

I was going to install my sump under my main display tank, then I started to measure I figure that I could get it in there but I would have room to get anything else in the sump... like the skimmer.

It coming along, no matter the best layed plans with plumbing you always have to figure things out as you go.

Finally, that tank is almost filled, had to stop since all the plumbing wasnt done yet.

Still finishing up the paneling and sheet rock.

 

[Shadowramy]

I posted this in the DIY thread but would also like any info here:

I currently have 2 dedicated 20 amp circuts. I am looking for any adivice on how I should 'part out' these two circuit as far as what should be on GCFI and what can be on regular outlets.

This is my current list, my initial thougts are everything on GFCI and only pumps on regular outlets but I am not an electric expert:

ACJR - (3 400w MH, 72" Actinics, 500w Heater, 300w Heater, Fans, BrkOut1, BrkOut 2, Moon Lights)
ACJR Breakout 1 - 250w MH (frag tank)
ACJR Breakout 2 - 110w Actinics (frag tank)
Dart 1 - CL
Dart 2 - Return and Chiller
Skimmer (red Dragon)
GAC Reactor
Chiller 1/4 horse
Vortec MP40 #1
Vortec MP40 #2
SeaSwirl #1
SeaSwirl #2
PowerHead 1 (main tank)
PowerHead 2 (main tank)
PowerHead 3 (frag tank)
PowerHead 4 (frag tank)
ZeoVit Reactor
Ranco Controller
Salinity Monitor
Top Off 1
Top Off Pump
CaRx
C02 Bottle
Ca Monitor

Thanks

 

[strout]

Am waiting for someone to answer your question about parting out to your 20 amp circuts. Have always wondered what needs to go where as far as your plugs go.

 

[Shadowramy]

August 11th, 2009 - Getting Fuller

Finished up all the sheetrocking, now need to paint inside again, mud, sand and paint. Mike from St. Joe came over and we went over what some of the trimming we can do to spruce it up.

The Inky box overflow where installed a day ago and wanted to give them a good day to dry before testing. With the euro-bracing there was barely any room to get them installed and I dropped one over the cover inside the box and took me an hour to fish it out.

August 12th, 2009

I filled it all within 1 inch of the overflow and ran out of water, will have to wait till tomorrow to finish up.

 

[Shadowramy]

August 13th, 2009

Finally filled up and testing for level and any leaks. Fortunely there was only just one leak

The leak was in the union.

They forgot to send me an 'O' ring with the part, luckey I went to Lowes and just go a new one.. that fixed the leak.

Closed loop finished and tested and back painted black. The CL is running on a DART two 1.5" intakes going to four 1" outputs, 2 going to seaswirls and 2 going low what will be behind the reef.

Chiller is installed, 1/4hp Aquatronics

I lowered the sump stand and lowered the pipeing just to make sure everything was not on an inclide.

Notice I need to fix the middle baffel on the end, forgot it needed to be higher than the rest of them or the water would just flow over it.. easy fix.

The end will going to the frag tank which will be placed along the wall and drain directly into the sump.

When I fired up the return DART the water level started touching the center bracing.

Either I need to lower my Inky boxes or reduce the flow... I think I will lower the boxes, I need the flow.

Lastly I started on the light rail, I measure the VHOs and they will just make it.. will have to do a little customizing but it will work out.

 

[eran]

nice update Bruce!!!! You got me beat. My light rack looks great. I think I am going to make another for my frag tank. You free anytime soon so that I can use your saw again???

 

[Shadowramy]

update

After I finished up the light rack I did some wiring and ballast mounting.

Kopper had already run me two dedicated 20 amp line. I went ahead and installed GCFI on both lines then wired up two 3-switch break out box to the load side of the GCFI's. Additionally I ran a couple other stand-alone boxes. This allows me to seprate out my pumps, heating, cooling and lights incase one line goes down.

20amp #1 (GCFI protected)
ACJR - (3 400w, 72" Actinics, 500w Heater, 300w Heater, Fans, BrkOut1, BrkOut 2, Moon Lights)
Dart 1 - CL
Skimmer (red Dragon)
GAC Reactor
Vortec MP40 #1
SeaSwirl #1
PowerHead 1 (main tank)
PowerHead 3 (frag tank)
ZeoVit Reactor
Salinity Monitor
CaRx
C02 Bottle
Ca Monitor

20amp #2 (GCFI protected)
ACJR Breakout 1 - 250w MH (frag tank)
ACJR Breakout 2 - 110w Actinics (frag tank)
Dart 2 - Return and Chiller
Chiller 1/4 horse
Ranco Controller
Vortec MP40 #2
SeaSwirl #2
PowerHead 2 (main tank)
PowerHead 4 (frag tank)
Top Off 1
Top Off Pump

Wired up my IceCap 400w and IceCap 660 running two 72" UVL Actinics (just barely fit)

Full lighting completed.

Mike from St. Joe came over earlier to do all the skimcoating and prep for paint work. Looks nice, can even tell where my screwup are!!