Shawn's 180 Wall Divider Build
- Thread starter adova
- Start date
adova
Premium Member
Welcome to the hobby and ReefCentral Geech. I really wanted the 200INT Elite, but the techs at Coralvue told me it would be too much and it would be a bad decision for my size tank.
I should be getting the acrylic tomorrow and start assembling over the weekend (gotta go skiing Saturday, though). I am going to try to document the "glue" process for the acrylic the best I can.
I should be getting the acrylic tomorrow and start assembling over the weekend (gotta go skiing Saturday, though). I am going to try to document the "glue" process for the acrylic the best I can.
I think what he meant was the floor. There's a panel of wood flooring missing on the floor now where the wall used to be. Are you going to put the flooring down and then the tank, or are you going to remove the flooring in the footprint of the tank? I'm curious too, because I have a very similar project coming my way in a couple of years. I'm actually waiting to do my peninsula tank because my wife is wanting to redo the floors. Don't want to demo until we're ready for that.
Loving watching your build. The dreams.... man, I feel you on that. I build everything in my sleep. One time, I had a dream and the next day built a wet bar in our rec room. Lol
adova
Premium Member
Ah - I am building a plywood "box" that the metal stand will sit inside. The box is fiber glassed and will have a drain that will go into the house plumbing for the inevitable flood that always seems to happen. Under this box will be a 1/2" sheet of Styrofoam that will protect the floor. The idea is that I want to be able to rip this down for house sale if I ever need to and put it back to spec...
I should have some general pics of the progress to give a better idea this weekend.
It scares me when you say inevitable flood. I've never had a flood, but the fact that you think it's inevitable makes me want to run home and check on things.
adova
Premium Member
I think floods decrease with experience (I hope), but I have had quite a few over the last 15 years. System controllers (like Apex and Reefkeeper) help alleviate this if used properly, but anything can happen. There is a guy that has a 20,000 gallon system (10' high tank) that woke up in the morning to find that the tank only had 18" left in it. This was a couple of weeks ago.
http://blog.aquanerd.com/2015/01/largest-private-reef-tank-in-the-us-springs-a-leak.html
http://blog.aquanerd.com/2015/01/largest-private-reef-tank-in-the-us-springs-a-leak.html
adova
Premium Member
Acrylic is in!
Acrylic is in!
Got the Acrylic today. I had made a pretty big mistake when calculating the correct thickness - or maybe I just did not recalculate after I changed the dimensions. Either way, I needed to have 3/4" for the sides and I had only ordered 1/2". I called the plastic company (plasticareinc.com here in Denver) and they had already cut all of the stock. But - they got the new sheet cut with 6 hrs notice and gave me a $180 credit for the mistake! Great people!!!
The acrylic was cut on their CNC router so it should be dead on for the size and the edges are perfect - no scraping or any prep work needed. All for only an extra $30 per panel (4 panels). Total for tank (75 x 21.5 x 24) + Overflow + sump (48 x 20 x 16 with 3 baffles and refugium partition) and two water tanks (20 x 20 x 24 and 20 x 20 x 10) = $1450.
Acrylic is in!
Got the Acrylic today. I had made a pretty big mistake when calculating the correct thickness - or maybe I just did not recalculate after I changed the dimensions. Either way, I needed to have 3/4" for the sides and I had only ordered 1/2". I called the plastic company (plasticareinc.com here in Denver) and they had already cut all of the stock. But - they got the new sheet cut with 6 hrs notice and gave me a $180 credit for the mistake! Great people!!!
The acrylic was cut on their CNC router so it should be dead on for the size and the edges are perfect - no scraping or any prep work needed. All for only an extra $30 per panel (4 panels). Total for tank (75 x 21.5 x 24) + Overflow + sump (48 x 20 x 16 with 3 baffles and refugium partition) and two water tanks (20 x 20 x 24 and 20 x 20 x 10) = $1450.
woodnaquanut
Active member
This is going to be a great tank! Fantastic location!!
Have you built acrylic tanks before?
Beware of the check valve. They only fail when you need them!
Have you built acrylic tanks before?
Beware of the check valve. They only fail when you need them!
adova
Premium Member
I have done a lot of sumps and water tanks, but not a display tank. Also never with the pin method. But I have been playing around with the sump and two water tanks yesterday and today and I think I have it just about dialed in. I am using .013 gauge guitar string and the seams are coming out just about perfect. A little too much extra solvent, but I think I can address that. I have some .010 string that I might test out too...
I think with the overflow design and size of the sump that I probably don't even need the check valve, but I will have to think it through.
I think with the overflow design and size of the sump that I probably don't even need the check valve, but I will have to think it through.
adova
Premium Member
Some gluing going on!
Some gluing going on!
Figured I would share some pics of the glue up process. I will give a much more detailed view and maybe video when I get to the display tank. This is the sump.
Use 90 degree clamps to help level everything up
Orange right angle also assists with correct orientation
Use shims to apply equal pressure at each pin area
Pins are .010 guitar string. Tried many sizes and this was the winner
Use a 25 gauge syringe applicator. Tend to like it more than the squeeze bottle
Glue is in - wait 30 secs and pull pins.
Only 2 blemishes on this seam. Hard to get perfect if there was some dust or anything going on. I am still very happy with results
Some gluing going on!
Figured I would share some pics of the glue up process. I will give a much more detailed view and maybe video when I get to the display tank. This is the sump.
Use 90 degree clamps to help level everything up
Orange right angle also assists with correct orientation
Use shims to apply equal pressure at each pin area
Pins are .010 guitar string. Tried many sizes and this was the winner
Use a 25 gauge syringe applicator. Tend to like it more than the squeeze bottle
Glue is in - wait 30 secs and pull pins.
Only 2 blemishes on this seam. Hard to get perfect if there was some dust or anything going on. I am still very happy with results
adova
Premium Member
Sumps are great first builds. The seams don't have to be pretty, just function and that is pretty easy to do. The real key is to get the edges smooth and square. But even if you can't it can work fine. All of my previous projects have always been saw cut edges off of my home saw. With a little weld-on 16 you can fix the leaky blemishes...
adova
Premium Member
Just wanted to give a little update. I was spending some time on the "main" acrylic thread and Floyd R Turbo gave me some much needed direction and advice. To summarize:
I had to order most of the new supplies because they are not available locally. Everything will be here on Wednesday. I will practice on the remaining sump and water tank pieces with the larger gauge needles.
Then, I need an assistant to help pull the pins as i glue around what is essentially a 16' seam. Hopefully next weekend. I will try to document everything as clearly as possible.
This weekend, I will be completing the stand and maybe doing some work on the electronics room (if you can call it that lol)
- My assembly order has been wrong. And I should have realized it. Order should be sides to Front, then to back, then to top, then to bottom.
- With that assembly order, I will have to do the top / bottom seams in one run - in 60 secs or less!
- I will also need to use a bigger gap (forget the .010 Guitar strings) and move to 22 - 24g pins
- Also a bigger gauge dispenser - 16g needle vs. 25g.
- I should stop trying to avoid any "fillet" on the inside of my seams (a problem with a bigger gap when going with a bigger pin). It will dry clear and not be obvious.
- Use foam and MDF to help even out the seam during prep (this will make more sense when i do it and take some pics).
- Better prep - use denatured alcohol to clean the areas to be joined.
- Finally - get some smaller diameter needle / wire to remove any stray bubbles.
I had to order most of the new supplies because they are not available locally. Everything will be here on Wednesday. I will practice on the remaining sump and water tank pieces with the larger gauge needles.
Then, I need an assistant to help pull the pins as i glue around what is essentially a 16' seam. Hopefully next weekend. I will try to document everything as clearly as possible.
This weekend, I will be completing the stand and maybe doing some work on the electronics room (if you can call it that lol)
adova
Premium Member
Full steam ahead - DT assembly begins
Full steam ahead - DT assembly begins
I was finally able to get all of the materials I needed in and start the display tank. The following posts will document the work that has occurred over the last week or so.
First, special thanks to Floyd who is one of RC's resident acrylic experts for giving me some much needed guidance and probably saved me from wasting $1000 in materials.
Template for top cutouts
The top of the tank is designed with a 4.5" rim and 2 x 6" bracing cut out of a single 1/2" acrylic. I used 1/4" MDF to make a single cutout template that I would repeat 3 times.
Rough Cut
Then, I used a Jigsaw to rough cut out the 3 holes.
Flush Cut
Next, the router was used to flush cut the opening to the template.
1/8" Round Over
Finally, to soften the sharp edges, I used a 1/8" round over bit on both sides of the panel.
Finished Top Cutout
Full steam ahead - DT assembly begins
I was finally able to get all of the materials I needed in and start the display tank. The following posts will document the work that has occurred over the last week or so.
First, special thanks to Floyd who is one of RC's resident acrylic experts for giving me some much needed guidance and probably saved me from wasting $1000 in materials.
Template for top cutouts
The top of the tank is designed with a 4.5" rim and 2 x 6" bracing cut out of a single 1/2" acrylic. I used 1/4" MDF to make a single cutout template that I would repeat 3 times.
Rough Cut
Then, I used a Jigsaw to rough cut out the 3 holes.
Flush Cut
Next, the router was used to flush cut the opening to the template.
1/8" Round Over
Finally, to soften the sharp edges, I used a 1/8" round over bit on both sides of the panel.
Finished Top Cutout
adova
Premium Member
DT Assembly Steps
DT Assembly Steps
Here are the basic steps, so far, in the assembly process. To re-cap, the final tank size is 75" x 21.5" x 24"(h). Sides are 3/4" and top and bottom are 1/2".
MDF with foam strips
Per Floyd, I ordered some camper seal foam and placed them on 6" strips of MDF. The foam will serve as a buffer for any irregularities in the MDF and the acrylic.
Side "A" is placed on MDF / Foam
I placed one of the 3/4" side panels on the MDF strips
Shims Added
Next, shims are placed between the foam and the acrylic - about every 6 inches.
Clean Surface
After cleaning any major dust, etc. I wiped all parts to be joined clean with some Denatured Alcohol with my sock
DT Assembly Steps
Here are the basic steps, so far, in the assembly process. To re-cap, the final tank size is 75" x 21.5" x 24"(h). Sides are 3/4" and top and bottom are 1/2".
MDF with foam strips
Per Floyd, I ordered some camper seal foam and placed them on 6" strips of MDF. The foam will serve as a buffer for any irregularities in the MDF and the acrylic.
Side "A" is placed on MDF / Foam
I placed one of the 3/4" side panels on the MDF strips
Shims Added
Next, shims are placed between the foam and the acrylic - about every 6 inches.
Clean Surface
After cleaning any major dust, etc. I wiped all parts to be joined clean with some Denatured Alcohol with my sock
adova
Premium Member
Set up Jig
A jig was made out of 2 pieces of MDF glued at a 90 degree angle. It was then cut in the corner at a 45 degree angle to give room at the joint. Clamps hold the acrylic perpendicular to each other and bags of sand were added to keep it from moving.
Set pins
Pins are then cut and set in place between the two sheets. I am using 24g picture wire for the primary pins and 28g picture wire as a "scoop" in case i need to extract a rouge bubble.
A jig was made out of 2 pieces of MDF glued at a 90 degree angle. It was then cut in the corner at a 45 degree angle to give room at the joint. Clamps hold the acrylic perpendicular to each other and bags of sand were added to keep it from moving.
Set pins
Pins are then cut and set in place between the two sheets. I am using 24g picture wire for the primary pins and 28g picture wire as a "scoop" in case i need to extract a rouge bubble.
adova
Premium Member
Gluing
Gluing
Glue Products
I ordered Plasticator applicators that came with an assortment of needles. I will be using the largest 16g in the pack. It is large enough that you do not even need to squeeze the bottle to get it to flow. I am using 4 of these when I do the top and bottom to assure that I do not have to re-fill during the process. Also, air tends to mix in and cause bubbles as the liquid is almost empty.
closest tip in picture is the 16g
Side is glued
One side is glued. After 30 secs (I found I can wait much longer with the amount of Weld-on #4 that I am using), the pins are pulled. If any bubbles are seen, you can try to extract using the thinner gauge wire. smaller ones will squish out when pins are pulled too. This is the resulting joint...
Other side is set up and glued
Gluing
Glue Products
I ordered Plasticator applicators that came with an assortment of needles. I will be using the largest 16g in the pack. It is large enough that you do not even need to squeeze the bottle to get it to flow. I am using 4 of these when I do the top and bottom to assure that I do not have to re-fill during the process. Also, air tends to mix in and cause bubbles as the liquid is almost empty.
closest tip in picture is the 16g
Side is glued
One side is glued. After 30 secs (I found I can wait much longer with the amount of Weld-on #4 that I am using), the pins are pulled. If any bubbles are seen, you can try to extract using the thinner gauge wire. smaller ones will squish out when pins are pulled too. This is the resulting joint...
Other side is set up and glued
adova
Premium Member
Opposite Side
Opposite Side
Opposite Side is setup and glued
After sitting overnight, I setup the other side to be glued. A support is needed in the center (bucket, books and paper) to make sure that the ends are properly oriented. I chose to glue down one side, let it dry and then do the other side. I will post that tonight.
Opposite Side
Opposite Side is setup and glued
After sitting overnight, I setup the other side to be glued. A support is needed in the center (bucket, books and paper) to make sure that the ends are properly oriented. I chose to glue down one side, let it dry and then do the other side. I will post that tonight
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