Paradiddle7
New member
I dipped my possum wrasse for 2 minutes in RODI with a matched temperature and ph from my tank. He looked the same after that. Should the ich fall off or do I need to dip him longer?
Should the ich fall off with a Fresh Water Dip?
- Thread starter Paradiddle7
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Paradiddle7
New member
Wow, there's a lot of misinformation out there then. I have read at least 3 sources that say to dip the fish in freshwater. I knew hyposalinity method to work but I won't be able to set that up for the fish until tomorrow night. Thanks for the link.
Paradiddle7
New member
You know, I have another question after reading that. It would seem that a QT tank can't guarantee you against ich. The article states that a fish can be infected and not show signs, most likely the parasite is in the gills. Once you place that fish in your DT, if another fish doesn't have a strong enough immune system, it can be overcome and get infected.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
To be positive your fish dont have ich you will need to treat it for ich wether you see it or not. But that is correct, if you only place the fish in qt and before you place it in your dt without treating then there is always the chance.
Paradiddle7
New member
Oh ok, so you are saying use copper in the QT, to ensure the ich doesn't come on the fish. Since moving the fish there is a 100% chance that you will be moving some water from your QT tank to your DT, what is really the best QT time? I understand it's at least 28 days for all the cysts/eggs to hatch and die because they can't find a host. Is the copper effective immediately, or should you let the copper work for a week or two and then start the 28 days timer?
Also, after the 2 minute and 5 minute FW dip last night the possum wrasse looks 90% better so perhaps the dip did make the parasites at least fall off of him for now. I know the tank still has ich but it should give him more time until I can get the QT hypo-salinity tank up.
I really appreciate the insight, I'm learning a lot. I just have a nano now so the most I can lose is 2 fish but I sure don't want them to die.
Also, after the 2 minute and 5 minute FW dip last night the possum wrasse looks 90% better so perhaps the dip did make the parasites at least fall off of him for now. I know the tank still has ich but it should give him more time until I can get the QT hypo-salinity tank up.
I really appreciate the insight, I'm learning a lot. I just have a nano now so the most I can lose is 2 fish but I sure don't want them to die.
Just remember to not treat the tank with copper if there are any corals/inverts in the tank. You can't always see ich, and copper (when used correctly) can rid a fish of ich over the period of 4-6 weeks, with then additional observation time of a couple of weeks. This will ensure a disease will (and should) never enter your display tank.
Paradiddle7
New member
Thanks... great info here....
Is it possible you are dealing with Velvet (Amyloodinium) instead of Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon Irritans)? F/w dips and formalin baths are effective as temporary relief for Velvet. Read here.
Since a fresh water dip has no effect on ich, you are likely dealing with a different parasite such as velvet.
Paradiddle7
New member
I think it's just I couldn't see well this morning. He still had spots on his fins because they were easy to see on the translucent part but he was under a rock and I just couldn't see well. He has tons of dots on him now and it looks like zits with each parasite being a grain of salt/sugar size. This is the 3rd day that I have noticed and it's gotten pretty bad. I'm setting up a QT tank for hyposalinity now but by the time I get him down there he might be a goner. He's not moving too well now.
Would velvet take over quicker than 3 days?
I have a clown and a goby that are showing no signs so I'm assuming they have a better immune response to it. Luckily I just have a nano now so it will be easy for me to pickup a 10 gallon and move them into there and keep my DT fallow for 6-8 weeks just to get rid of whatever it is that I have.
Would velvet take over quicker than 3 days?
I have a clown and a goby that are showing no signs so I'm assuming they have a better immune response to it. Luckily I just have a nano now so it will be easy for me to pickup a 10 gallon and move them into there and keep my DT fallow for 6-8 weeks just to get rid of whatever it is that I have.
+1 And IME, most fish with Velvet don't last 3 days without treatment. Of course, a f/w dip would have probably bought the OP more time if this is Velvet. Either way, a QT and copper treatment are needed ASAP.
Paradiddle7
New member
OK, so what will work fastest and save the other fish? The clown has a few spots I think. I setup a QT tank for them. Should I go hyposalinity over the next 24 hours down to 1.009 or should I treat with copper? What has the best chance of saving the wrasse which is the worst affected?
Paradiddle7
New member
OK, I'm treating with copper. Seems easier than keeping the tank at 1.009 perfectly. The only problem I see is that the damm API copper test kit I have is so hard to read! Any recommendations for one that actually can give me an accurate reading?
Paradiddle7
New member
Here is a pic of the Possum Wrasse. He looks pretty bad.
For Cupramine, you need to use either Seachem or Salifert copper test kit. API copper test kit is only suitable for Coppersafe.
Looks like Ich, but could be Velvet. Either way, copper is your best bet.
Paradiddle7
New member
I'm not using cupramine. My lfs poured me something out of a gallon jug from their own stock and he said they don't make it anymore and gave me the API copper test kit. It did turn the color it was suppose to but I can't tell if I'm at 0.2 or 0.4
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