show me your CUBE!!!
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Chin_monster
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kmu said:
Yeah, I know. I live with one.
Chin_monster
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Here it is.
The top opens like as regular canopy (w/ locking bracket to keep open) as well as the front door. Without door, I don't even want to think about it.
The top opens like as regular canopy (w/ locking bracket to keep open) as well as the front door. Without door, I don't even want to think about it.
Chin_monster
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It is 10" high to accomodate my halide fixtures.
I don't know the exact outside dimensions of the thing. Custom job by a local stand maker for the tank.
I don't know the exact outside dimensions of the thing. Custom job by a local stand maker for the tank.
Chin_monster
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I believe roughly $350 for each piece, the canopy slightly more.
Would have been sunstancially more, but the campany didn't want to to build the canopy with doors on 3-sides and I didn't press the issue (didn't realize that they were needed, I wanted them for cosmetic reasons). They'd build the stand 3-sided, but then it wouldn't match the canopy.
The tank, stand and canopy were something like $1100- $1200 total (w/ very discounted markup).
Would have been sunstancially more, but the campany didn't want to to build the canopy with doors on 3-sides and I didn't press the issue (didn't realize that they were needed, I wanted them for cosmetic reasons). They'd build the stand 3-sided, but then it wouldn't match the canopy.
The tank, stand and canopy were something like $1100- $1200 total (w/ very discounted markup).
i guess i'm lacking perspective on this. i can reach anywhere i need to via my two sets of doors, but my tank is a foot shorter lenght and width.
having doors on two sides helps a lot i can see that already with just my tank. (for me its the left and right sides). however i dont have any wires running behind or over or anythign like that, so if i have to , i can totally remove my canopy in about 45 seconds.
/john
having doors on two sides helps a lot i can see that already with just my tank. (for me its the left and right sides). however i dont have any wires running behind or over or anythign like that, so if i have to , i can totally remove my canopy in about 45 seconds.
/john
Chin_monster
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PaintGuru said:
Two doors on oppsites sides would work. 3-sided would be ideal for the purposes I had in mind when building this system, but some of that is merely convience and aesthethics matching stand to canopy. Plus, it was really suposed to the a 3-sided tank -started out basically with a corner location in mind.
My canopy is in theory removable, very light and wires mounted into place with clamps. It is awkward to do so though, it is big. And all the lights go away with it.
I do believe that the ideal(est) solution is to use a pendant-type lighting package.
You could use an open top "skirt" canopy in order to make the tank more into a piece of furniture than just a tank on a box. Skirt tops are easy enough to pop off to mess with the tank and the lights are still there and out of the way. That may be the way I do the "next" tank - 30 X 30 X 20.
I like the 30 X 30 footprint a lot. Tank depth (vertical) doesn't really benfit my light-sucking sps corals much. A shallower tank would make providing light intensity easier.
PaintGuru
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Mines going to be 24" deep, but I plan on using 2 MHs in the canopy so I don' t think lighting will be an issue. Mine will be viewable from 3 sides, so the "back" will be against the wall. I'm not sure I want to pay for doors on 3 sides. The only reason I'm not big on pendants is the light thrown into the room by them (perhaps I am wrong on this). Also, I already have 3-retro MHs and I dont really want to change them out for pendants. Perhaps there is a clever way to make the sides of the canopy "removable" but not look like doors (and cost me like doors). I'll have to think about it.
Chin_monster
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I think when I getting around to building the next tank I'm going to use my existing fixtures and build them into a hanging light box -type pendant fixture. Just a wood enclosure around all the retrofit parts.
I'm running a pair of 250's and a 400 over my tank as it is and still there are issues with some of the light-pig sps' not maintaining the colors I'd like when placed lower in the tank. They can live anywhere in the tank, although the coloration tends to fade when placed deeper in the tank. Hence, the shallower tank.
If I was doing a "mixed" reef with softies, LPS and a few SPS at the top, then a 24" deep tank would be in order. I'm running a rather specialized system for excluively SPS corals.
I'm running a pair of 250's and a 400 over my tank as it is and still there are issues with some of the light-pig sps' not maintaining the colors I'd like when placed lower in the tank. They can live anywhere in the tank, although the coloration tends to fade when placed deeper in the tank. Hence, the shallower tank.
If I was doing a "mixed" reef with softies, LPS and a few SPS at the top, then a 24" deep tank would be in order. I'm running a rather specialized system for excluively SPS corals.
PaintGuru
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Yeah I'm not sure exactly what I want, but definitely I want some colorful SPS, and I thought a 250 and 400 would provide enough light (you're scaring me here!) 
. I do have a 3rd 250, but I was planning on selling it and I'm guessing I would have heat issues. We'll see what happens.
. I do have a 3rd 250, but I was planning on selling it and I'm guessing I would have heat issues. We'll see what happens.
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