Show me Your Fancy STANDS!!!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Rhodes19
New member
+1
I went with Lowes select pine because of limited $$$. I was going to paint mine but the wife wanted it stained which I did last night. It looks nice but not as nice if I had gone with oak and stain. If you do go with pine and want to stain it, disreguard the instuctions on the can for sanding. It said if you want a deeper stain, then do finish sanding with 150 - 180 grit which I did. After I stained it, I could see some scratches from the sand paper (used orbital sander for most of it). I was going to use 220 for the final sanding but didn't. I'm regretting that now. Oh well, lesson learned. HTH.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Well wife is thinking a dark stain color. She liked the AGA black stands and they are stained but doesn't like grain like oak. She likes more smooth like pine. Any suggestions on what wood or best way to stain a dark color for pine. Any online sites to help w/ wood conditioner and such? I know nothing about staining.
Going to Lowes tonight to get a few pieces and experiment w/ stain
Going to Lowes tonight to get a few pieces and experiment w/ stain
swiseman
Premium Member
Mine is made of maple. The stain is a custom mix that my wife picked out. There is one piece of advise I would like to pass on when building the stand. Always make sure that the grain of the wood is running in the direction of the longest measurement of the piece of wood you are working with. It will look better and be more structurally stable. (less warping)
Rhodes19
New member
I took my wife to Lowes and showed her the Min Wax and Cabot stain samples done on pine and oak. I then had her pick out the stain sample she liked on the pine sample and that is the one we got. The stain she liked was the red oak stain. When I put it on over the prestain, it turned out I would say a medium dark. You can make the stain darker by using a courser final sanding (150 - 180 grit) or put multiple coats of stain on. When I get home tonight I'll take a picture of it. At the moment it only has one coat. I got home to late last night to do anything with it but after looking at it this morning, I might leave it the way it is. Nont want it to dark. I will have to get my wifes opinion/approval!! LOL!!
if your finish is a laquer or polyurethane than you can add some of the oil based stain to it, and use as a toner on the areas that may need to be darkened...i usually spray my finish...so i will hit the areas that need toning....then finish with the usual cross linking pattern...fwiw
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Nice stands you last two.
Well I'm running into troubles. Ok IF she wants pine and I make squared framed doors what do I used for the insert wood? They don't carry pine in 1/4" panel to put in the inserts. They have birch but not sure if they will look the same when you stain them.
We did find a color that she likes Minwax Cherry color stain on the pine sample. I'm just having troubles figuring out how I'm going to sheet the sides so they look the same as the pine framing on the front.
jterrell - Wow what kind of wood is that?
Well I'm running into troubles. Ok IF she wants pine and I make squared framed doors what do I used for the insert wood? They don't carry pine in 1/4" panel to put in the inserts. They have birch but not sure if they will look the same when you stain them.
We did find a color that she likes Minwax Cherry color stain on the pine sample. I'm just having troubles figuring out how I'm going to sheet the sides so they look the same as the pine framing on the front.
jterrell - Wow what kind of wood is that?
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Good to know. I might buy some and test just to make sure and see what color she likes. I'd personally like to just use oak on it all and be done w/ it. You can find a lot of sizes and trim pieces in oak so it's easiest.
By straight stain you are just meaning not the polyshades stain and poly together correct?
Lunchbucket
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
I would side with oak as well. and yes straight stain is without a poly.
Rhodes19
New member
Lunchbucket,
Here are the pictures I promised. This is pine trim with luan paneling. I used a prestain first then put the first coat of stain on. We wanted it a little darker so I put on a second coat of stain. These pictures show it about 12 hours after the second coat went on.
Left side
Right side
For some reason, the top piece looks darker than the rest in the picture. In person, I couldn't really see a differance.
Here are the pictures I promised. This is pine trim with luan paneling. I used a prestain first then put the first coat of stain on. We wanted it a little darker so I put on a second coat of stain. These pictures show it about 12 hours after the second coat went on.
Left side
Right side
For some reason, the top piece looks darker than the rest in the picture. In person, I couldn't really see a differance.
Last edited by a moderator:
grouper therapy
Member
I'm about to start one with Padauk
Will pot some pics when gone
Will pot some pics when gone
i would NOT recommend using the "polyshades" on oak...it had a tendency to not want to fill in the grain , and created the worst finish i had ever seen....
I always sand, stain ,wipe off excess,let dry for a few hours...reapply stain to tone the lighter areas...(if an area is too dark, you can wipe off some stain with a rag and thinner" let it all dry overnight...then spray the finish...
I have never used a pre stain sealer, so i wont comment on it
some tricks...
always wipe with the grain
you can wet the wood to help open the grain to absorb more color (must be dry before staining)
change your paper when sanding...a worn down disc of 180 grit can almost "polish" a hard wood causing uneven staining
hardwoods are often sanded with 150 so the "swirlmarks" can grab the stain (personally I hate them)
HTH
I always sand, stain ,wipe off excess,let dry for a few hours...reapply stain to tone the lighter areas...(if an area is too dark, you can wipe off some stain with a rag and thinner" let it all dry overnight...then spray the finish...
I have never used a pre stain sealer, so i wont comment on it
some tricks...
always wipe with the grain
you can wet the wood to help open the grain to absorb more color (must be dry before staining)
change your paper when sanding...a worn down disc of 180 grit can almost "polish" a hard wood causing uneven staining
hardwoods are often sanded with 150 so the "swirlmarks" can grab the stain (personally I hate them)
HTH
JStraz4991
New member
nice stands
