coralfragger101
Gone Postal
Up until now, I've glued everything. Redoing the overflow I'm working on today I will pressure fit most of the parts within the overflow box. Anything outside the box will definately be glued.
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter BeanAnimal
- Start date
- Status
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
All plumbing outside of the tank or sump should be glued, no exceptions.
Veni vidi vici
Member
Ok BeanAnimal, Its crunch time.Im waiting on plumbing parts so i took a few to draw up a sketch of my intentions.I would gladly take any advice you have.Oh i didnt put it on sketch but all my pipeing on the C2C is 1.5"
Tswifty
New member
Bean... If you have a minute, I could use some help explaining this system on my thread again.
Thanks
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12626011#post12626011
Thanks
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12626011#post12626011
MeuserReef
Welcome to the next level
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12623574#post12623574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Veni vidi vici
Ok BeanAnimal, Its crunch time.Im waiting on plumbing parts so i took a few to draw up a sketch of my intentions.I would gladly take any advice you have.Oh i didnt put it on sketch but all my pipeing on the C2C is 1.5"
Why not accomplish the turn to the sump with (2) 45° fittings, rather than the two 90° fittings?
Veni vidi vici
Member
i was thinking the first 90 gets me into the stand and over the sump and the 2nd shoots straight down into sump.Im trying to keep things uncluttered and neat,unless........ its going to affect performance of design.
saltee dood
New member
I think that going with the two 45s would make the bends not as restrictive.
one about mid-tank, pipe angles to just below the bottom of the tank, then another 45 to send it straight down to the sump.
the flow wont be as restricted going thru gentle turns as it would making a hard turn.
one about mid-tank, pipe angles to just below the bottom of the tank, then another 45 to send it straight down to the sump.
the flow wont be as restricted going thru gentle turns as it would making a hard turn.
coralfragger101
Gone Postal
Finished the second overflow today. These aren't exactly to Bean's specs but the general idea is there.
Siffy
New member
On the siphon channel it's a moot point whether to use 90s or 45s as it's being restricted anyway. It's also pretty irrelevant on the other 2 as they see such little flow. Noise difference between 45s and 90s would be the only consideration. That's one I'd be curious to know if there's a difference. Whatever looks the cleanest and keeps the pipes out of the way is what I'd use.
Veni vidi vici
Member
Unless someone with the first hand knowledge has an explanation on why not to use 90s ,ill probably use them.Ill let you know if its noisy or not.Im only going to be pushing around 500gph or 4x the total system volume per hour through the overflow system,so we shall see.
bertmauricio
New member
Small PVC Screen/Strainers available?
Small PVC Screen/Strainers available?
What are people using as strainers for the 1" street elbow to prevent snails crawling in, when using this setup with an open calfo overflow? Something low profile, unlike the long bulkhead strainers.
I remember seeing some pictures of small 1" or so round pvc-type cap strainers that wers slotted but I can't find it again. Looks like a miniature version of 3-4inch drain stainer used for landscaping drainage.
Small PVC Screen/Strainers available?
What are people using as strainers for the 1" street elbow to prevent snails crawling in, when using this setup with an open calfo overflow? Something low profile, unlike the long bulkhead strainers.
I remember seeing some pictures of small 1" or so round pvc-type cap strainers that wers slotted but I can't find it again. Looks like a miniature version of 3-4inch drain stainer used for landscaping drainage.
gkyle
Premium Member
I didn't end up using it, but when I set mine up initially I used my dremel (hacksaw would work just as well) and cut slots in my shortened 90. The slots matched the grid pattern on some eggcrate I had, so I inserted the eggcrate into the lines I cut and trimmed the eggcrate to match the outside dimension. The eggcrate is open enough not to affect flow much, but will keep larger snails and thrill-seeking clownfish out.
I really need some input here, and would be grateful for anyone excusing the newbie nature of the question. I'm planning a 250g with two corner overflows. I planned to put 3 1.5" bulkheads to implement this system.
In order to make the overflow box as small as possible, the temptation arises to just use an open standpipe or for that matter, an open bulkhead on the floor of the box instead of a durso-type bend.
What are the reasons that's not done? I've seen mention of creating a vortex. Would that be true even in a deep 29" tall box, if the "sump one" that's throttled back is many inches below water line?
The second question is if I have these two overflow boxes, 6 bulkheads total... I need to ro the pipes horizontally 30 feet or so along the basement ceiling before dropping into the sump.
What is the best piping setup? I don't want 6 horizontal pipes. Would prefer 2, maybe 2 2" pipes? (to be larger than the verticals to reduce chances of plugging?) I'm not sure how to combine these 3 different types of standpipes before making the horizontal run such that I don't LOSE the silent and safe benefits.
Thanks for any advice. Trying to "finalize" plans. (are they ever really final?)
In order to make the overflow box as small as possible, the temptation arises to just use an open standpipe or for that matter, an open bulkhead on the floor of the box instead of a durso-type bend.
What are the reasons that's not done? I've seen mention of creating a vortex. Would that be true even in a deep 29" tall box, if the "sump one" that's throttled back is many inches below water line?
The second question is if I have these two overflow boxes, 6 bulkheads total... I need to ro the pipes horizontally 30 feet or so along the basement ceiling before dropping into the sump.
What is the best piping setup? I don't want 6 horizontal pipes. Would prefer 2, maybe 2 2" pipes? (to be larger than the verticals to reduce chances of plugging?) I'm not sure how to combine these 3 different types of standpipes before making the horizontal run such that I don't LOSE the silent and safe benefits.
Thanks for any advice. Trying to "finalize" plans. (are they ever really final?)
Is there a way to do this setup without drilling the tank? If not, how do you drill the tank without breaking the glass? Sorry for the dumb questions, i am new to this sump and plumbing thing.
If i could see exactly what i have to do to set this up on my non drilled 150 gallon glass tank, i would appreciate it. I really don't want to use a hang on overflow box(because of the flooding issues). thanks
If i could see exactly what i have to do to set this up on my non drilled 150 gallon glass tank, i would appreciate it. I really don't want to use a hang on overflow box(because of the flooding issues). thanks
http://youtube.com/results?search_query=drilling+aquarium+tank&search_type=&aq=f
its very easy to do...just let the drill to the work and dont push hard...take your time and you'll be fine
its very easy to do...just let the drill to the work and dont push hard...take your time and you'll be fine
gkyle
Premium Member
brentj - I just finished setting up my 180 with this system. I have the siphon and open channel 1.5" pipes going into a Y that steps them up to 2", then the 2" is what I run down to my basement sump. I put a ball valve on each 1.5 before it hits the Y so I could adjust the flow. My emergency channel is plumbed with it's own 1.5" flex pvc all the way to the sump. It works great now, but I had so much pull with the drop to the basement sump I had to also insert a 2" ball valve at the sump end to get the siphon to settle down. It's been running for two weeks now without any adjustments or trouble and I'm running a Barracuda return pump full open.
I turn my pump on and off a couple times a day with a Neptune for feeding, and the siphon channel does gurgle quite a bit when shut down, but it doesn't cause any problems. When the pump kicks back on it flows over the emergency channel for maybe two minutes before the siphon kicks in.
I turn my pump on and off a couple times a day with a Neptune for feeding, and the siphon channel does gurgle quite a bit when shut down, but it doesn't cause any problems. When the pump kicks back on it flows over the emergency channel for maybe two minutes before the siphon kicks in.
bertmauricio
New member
Tee to Fuge
Tee to Fuge
For the main siphon drain, where should the gate valve be placed with respect to the a tee that diverts some water to a fuge?
Should the 1.5" gate valve be placed before the tee or after the tee to the sump? Siphon drain, gate valve, and tee are 1.5" but tee reduces down to 1" to connect to fuge pipe.
Tee to Fuge
For the main siphon drain, where should the gate valve be placed with respect to the a tee that diverts some water to a fuge?
Should the 1.5" gate valve be placed before the tee or after the tee to the sump? Siphon drain, gate valve, and tee are 1.5" but tee reduces down to 1" to connect to fuge pipe.
LoneRanger
Member
I see lots of calfo style internal boxes, any reason this wouldnt work with external overflow boxes?
my 300+ gallon tank is in the wall between the master bedroom and the living room and silence is paramount!
L.R.
my 300+ gallon tank is in the wall between the master bedroom and the living room and silence is paramount!
L.R.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
It is just a standpipe configuration, it will work very will with an external overflow box. I actually would prefer it that way 
Bert, that is a tough question. If the valve is BEFORE the TEE (with respect to the overflow box) then it should work as expected with regard to the overflow operation. You may have trouble regulating how much flow goes to each branch of the teee. On the other hand if you put TWO valves in to restric both branches you may have better luck. In either case, you may also run into stability problems. Sorry I don't have a better answer.
Bert, that is a tough question. If the valve is BEFORE the TEE (with respect to the overflow box) then it should work as expected with regard to the overflow operation. You may have trouble regulating how much flow goes to each branch of the teee. On the other hand if you put TWO valves in to restric both branches you may have better luck. In either case, you may also run into stability problems. Sorry I don't have a better answer.
- Status
Similar threads
