Silicone Cure Time

I recently picked up a 120 gallon from craigslist and I started with a leak test. One 5 gallon bucket in and I notice water pooling on top of the plastic trim. I drain the tank and replaced the silicone on that edge that was leaking. I did not notice any other areas leaking at the time. The silicone is now curing. I understand that I must wait around 2 weeks for the silicone to be safe for aquatic life. But what about just leak testing it? The tube of silicone says 24 hour cure time. Would it be alright to leak test tomorrow afternoon? More details about the silicone applies, GE 100% silicone II, applied about 3/8- 1/2 inch bead and smoothed with my finger and silicone tool. Any feedback on my repair would be great!
 
When we make tanks don't go for the cheep silicone. I put the tank together in a warm room. Let it cure for two weeks then I do a fill test for two weeks. I have made many tanks and never had an issue yet.
 
The only way to get a proper bond is to take the tank apart, adding silicone on top does little if anything, it just does not adhere well.
Maybe if it was a small pinhole you might get lucky but I would not completely trust that fix.
As far as leak test you should be fine after the initial cure time.
 
I recently picked up a 120 gallon from craigslist and I started with a leak test. One 5 gallon bucket in and I notice water pooling on top of the plastic trim. I drain the tank and replaced the silicone on that edge that was leaking. I did not notice any other areas leaking at the time. The silicone is now curing. I understand that I must wait around 2 weeks for the silicone to be safe for aquatic life. But what about just leak testing it? The tube of silicone says 24 hour cure time. Would it be alright to leak test tomorrow afternoon? More details about the silicone applies, GE 100% silicone II applied about 3/8- 1/2 inch bead and smoothed with my finger and silicone tool. Any feedback on my repair would be great!

GE silicone II is not what you want to use, contains mold/mildew inhibitors that can be harmful to inhabitants
 
Update, multiple tubes of scs1200 on order. I will pull of the panel tomorrow and clean the edge. What is the best way to remove the plastic trim?
 
Plan on just replacing the trim. The chances of getting it off without breaking are small. You can't remove just one pane of glass and fix that. You MUST take all 5 pieces apart, clean them of ALL traces of silicone and start from scratch.

Unless you've done this before, what you currently have is a nice reptile tank. I would buy new.
 
I am currently tanking the tank completely part. While I wait for my silicone order I will have plenty of time to clean the glass and remove all of the silicone. So assuming I destroy the plastic trim what do I do? Do I add glass braces on the top?

I have assembled and drilled my current 40 gallon so I have some experience. After some thought I realize why I need to take the tank completely apart. It's an under taking and risk I am willing to take.
 
You can usually order new trim, either through your LFS or online. That or eurobracing, but expect the top edge under the trim to be less than well finished.
 
I sort of re-built the top half of my 75 when I ripped the center brace out so it wouldn't make a shadow under my BML strips (I kept the upper and outer framework of the trim though for sake of appearances). I replaced the inner trim and brace with eurobracing - 1/2 x 2-1/2" tempered glass from OneDayGlass. I recently filled it and let it sit for a week to measure any deflection. I saw none. Not even a millimeter.
 
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