Sk8r's Reef Rebuild

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
THis is going to be a blog entry, over time. I lost most of the 105 gallon reef due to, A) 8 days in the winter with no power, and 2) though I saved some fish and corals, the sandbed dieoff and the fuge dieoff did more damage, so I lost some fish to a bit of ammonia (which coral doesn't mind as much) and then corals to nitrate (which fish don't mind as much) resulting from the sandbed crash and loss of inverts.

So...kind of a double whammy---exacerbated by an inadequate skimmer, which is a sneakier problem. I exited with nitrate through the roof (over 100) and real unhappy coral, which was demising. I dosed carbon faithfully. Put in a MarinePure block, big one. Got the nitrate down to 50. Then dosed NoPox, using 2 big bottles over time, which finally got the nitrate down to 10 to 15. But just couldn't get the nitrate down that final bit into the 5's to 1.

I also disconnected the sump, hosed it out, washed the whole rubble pile, and reconnected it. That helped, but not lower than 10.

Got a new more potent skimmer, an Eshopps Cone for a 150. It knocked it down to the 1's literally overnight, producing skimmate that literally blew the top off the skimmer: had to weight it with a rock.

So, we solved the ammonia problem back during the blackout. The nitrate problem has been killing us for months. Nearly 9 months. It's now gone.

Complicating the scene, around the time of the blackout, I had just gotten new lights: Radion gen 3 Pro (36" deep tank); and during the depths of the nitrate disaster, I got rid of the power heads in favor of a Gyre (the smaller one), which in my wedge tank bounces off the walls and goes deep, rolling the current underneath the rockwork and up the wall again. But figuring how much light, how much flow, corals are going to like has been just one more complication. I'm losing coral. To what? The nitrate? Or the light?

Having come down to a few surviving corals (euphyllia and acan are the last 2) I decided, well, maybe it's overkill at 60% of the Gyre or too much light at 60% of the Radion on its Radiant profile.

Well, I don't own (can't afford) a par meter, but I know a happy or unhappy montipora when I see it, and they use upper to lower end of moderate sps lighting. So I got a tiny sunset montipora and set it in the full blast of the 60% Gyre, right on top of the rockwork, 8" under the surface, under the Radions at 60%. Now mind, nitrate was still in the 50's. It browned. But survived, with the help of snails and crabs cleaning the brown gunk off it. It pulled in all its green florets and turned brown. Hmmn. Browning isn't a symptom of too much flow, so that's ok. But it's too much light OR too much nitrate. I thought maybe too much light, so I ticked the Radions down with the buttons to about 55%. THat didn't help. It had only little dots where the florets should be.

THEN came the new skimmer, and the nitrate dropped overnight. Out came the florets. Over subsequent days, on those settings, the orange color replaces the brown. and the florets have all their petals, bright green.

It is also puffing up a bit and looking inclined to spread (it's an 'encrusting' type.)

So I decided if montipora (least demanding of the sps sort) liked the flow and the light AND the low nitrate, I'd try an lps that's pretty hardy. Petco had a 15.00 3-head frag of quite battered candycane, very green. (They got it by error: they sell softies.) I got it, took it home, dipped it very zealously) found it a spot, again on top, yesterday. Today, the poor thing is bright-colored and about as puffed as it can get without extruding feeding tentacles.

So I watch. Both corals are looking much, much happier, and the new skimmer is now on medium-wet, as I get all the gunk I can out of this poor system.

Once you survive a crisis, you're not done: in my case, I lost a healthy population of pods, worms, amphipods, etc, which became soupy part of a nasty sandbed that wasn't working, and actually some months ago besought a bag of dirty sand from an lfs I trust---worms and sand life were what I wanted. And I had to gamble on anything unwanted coming with it, and be prepared to deal with the consequences, but the gamble worked. No ich, no parasites, no problems. Clean dirt. With worms.

So that was about 5 months back. Now that the skimming deficiency is fixed, we are RUNNING, and the little corals are trying hard. The battered old acan is still with us, and is going to have some problem overcoming the disadvantage of an algaed skeleton, but it has a fighting chance now, and the new corals are showing signs of better days ahead.
 
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Gratz on the rebuild, way to stick with it, lesser mortals might have thrown in the towel!:celeb3: now you have a tank your lil devil fish can enjoy
 
Wow, eight days without power. That really sucks. Not to mention the fish. I am in the final stages of cycling my new 180 so I am excited to put something in it! Although it wont be much. Have already had the newbie experience of brooklynella, ich and probably internal parasites in a 29... Will be taking my time with this one. Always something. Even when you have it right mother nature causes issues and you lose power!
 
Well, in horse after barn door mode, I now have: several oil lanterns, an Ace hunter's mini-propane heater, which can be used in a not-quite-closed space, and a Honda generator capable of handling the tank for a while, then maybe us for a while, and back to the tank. But it was a struggle: thanks to my s.o. who put in equal time standing on a ladder and dipping and pouring water to oxygenate--over 8 days with only interrupted sleep---(you know a marriage is good when---) we got it through alive, but the 9 months after has been an education I decided was worth sharing. You'll note a few cavalier moves (getting the sand, etc, but when you're down to a few fish with a tank that's not recovering, the risk of ich was a reasonable dice-toss). And these itty-bitty hard-luck frags are capable of taking off and becoming gorgeous, given great conditions and time.

The fish are responding to the lowered nitrate too: the monster golden domino is now buzzing (she does: loudly) and digging a nest, in which the only possible partner is a 3-stripe of her genus, if not her species.

I think the takeaway from all this is---nitrate levels can masquerade as problems with lights, flow, or general ill health of stock, and they can pave the way for other problems. Check the nitrates! and it's not 'ok' to have a fish tank with nitrates through the roof just because the fish can survive it. Note my little comment at the very top, as to how the dieoff created ammonia, which killed fish, and the coral tolerated the ammonia just fine (comparatively) but then succumbed to the nitrate generated by the demise of the fish in the ill-functioning sandbed. IE, the biocycle did what it was supposed to do: converted the ammonia. But the nitrate was the backswing of the hammer, and it took out the corals, which again affected the health of the tank. These systems are interlocked and related, and if you want a generally healthy, well-functioning tank, fix BOTH elements of the biocycle that governs your tank. If it involves laying out funds for a much better skimmer---it's better and kinder (and ultimately cheaper) than having specimen after specimen decline and demise.
 
Glad to see things are really coming around and your corals (And fish) are doing better! Look forward to seeing some pics as those corals start to take off. :beer:
 
Lol---you may know I keep damsels. ;) And they can be a trial; but they're hardy, and there's only one type that nips corals. My big gal, aka Ms. Titanic, Gold, and Tank Boss, is pretty in the way big angels are pretty, with her black-edged gold, and doesn't bother corals; and pretty well ignores other species, once she realizes they weren't added as lunch. That little fish in the photo is about the size of one of her side fins. She's about 4.5 inches long, which is adult for her type.
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Thanks for sharing that Sk8r! Great learning g for us newbies, to remember all "swings of the hammer"

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 
I'm very happy to see you have gotten out of the woods and have a healthy tank once again. When my tank crashed and I lost all of my bristle worms and pods. I bought a rock from Petco that had bristle worms in it and I bought Reef Bugs (F&S) and that replaced my pods. I also put a hang on the back refugium on the tank with some rocks and placed the Reef Bugs mix in that. That really brought back the pod population.
 
Awesome post yet again skater. Sorry you tank crashed but happy to see its on the upswing now.

How do you like the Gyre? I got the small one for my 65g and its running at 70%, not sure if its too much.
 
I have a triangular tank, so it's never that far from a wall...and the smaller gyre gives quite a good flow with no other powerheads. It's about a 36" straight line. I'm only running it on constant speed straight on, not reverse; there's some talk about glass/joint stress with this powerful push on a whole lotta water.
 
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Finally! the chemistry is starting to interact as it should. It's hard to list all the hits it took, one of which was from my salt (Oceanic) which has a very high mg level; one of which was from the rock, beautiful holey limestone which found the motherlode of phosphate to give up [finally] after a full year of running---sometimes you're just lucky, I guess. At one point, pre blackout, I had 1800 mg, and changed over to Instant Ocean. After the blackout, the nitrates hit an estimated 150...at a certain point, what's a few points one way or the other. So I had zero ammonia, 0 nitrite, 150 nitrate, 1800 mg, 10 alkalinity, 500 cal. By this time I'd gotten rid of the phosphate and algae---but the blackout and the high mg content handed me a mess in all other departments.

Well, a double round of massive water changes, a new salt, carbon dosing, then NoPoX. Mg declined with water changes. Nitrate declined with carbon dosing, NoPoX and finally a new, better skimmer (Eshopps 150 cone), and the new readings---ta dah! are: nitrite 0, phosphate trace; nitrate a little shy of 10 (I want it down another 5); magnesium 1260, now elevated by dosing to 1280. Alkalinity was 7.6, now 9.5: I'd like it a tad lower. Dosing took alk a bit high, but that's not, since the mg is now under control, a disaster. Calcium, 440. This is the closest thing to 'normal' I've achieved since the blackout---I haven't posted the real readings in my sig line, not wanting some person to try to imitate them; but shall we say---I'm happy. Now that mg is finally CAPABLE of falling, with the Instant Ocean salt, it's much easier to say blithely that I can knock that alkalinity down a tad to 8.3, pretty soon. If the mg was going to perch at 1800, there's not much way to adjust much of anything! but with it capable of falling---yes! I can adjust the other things.

My two little test corals are doing well. The sunset monti that had totally 'browned' [I think because of the nitrate, not the lighting] has recovered patches of brilliant orange and put out its florets; the abused frog continues to inflate every day and is brilliant green, but I have yet to see feeding tentacles.
 
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Congrats on the recovery Sk8r. I was lucky, we went 10 days without power after hurricane Charlie. But that was just before I started in the hobby and I already had a generator. (it should be a requirement to live in Florida!).

I'm just in the rebuilding stage after my 180g developed a leak that couldn't be stopped.

You are such a feature here on RC but you rarely post any photos. How about a FTS from before the power outage and one that is current?
 
I am a lousy photographer with a very little old Canon sureshot, and I guess I just focus on details. I'm also embarrassed to put my tank photography up against people who are much better at it. This is the widest shot I own of 'before the disaster'
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and it's kind of way old. The only fish in that shot that survived was the 3-stripe dascyllus.

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This is post-disaster---I can't show you any corals in this next shot---the poor things I got as test cases are about quarter-sized and higher than this. The old coral is skeleton. Coralline has grown like mad...of course the first shot is older, so it's not THAT fast. The fish that made it through were the dascyllus species damsels. The blue fish made it 7 days. And power came on the 8th. I was so sad about them.

So sorry about the leak. That's got to be maddening.
 
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I've decided that while the montipora is looking good, the candy cane is shrinking a bit, and now that I've got the chemistry under control, we're down to 'maybe too much light,' so I left the monti where it was and moved the candy cane down 8". [This is g3 Radion pro, reined back quite a bit.]

Very tiny frags are helping me understand the light distribution. I have no access to a par meter, but whether tiny corals are happy or not in otherwise good conditions gives me a clue.
 
Because it's a bowfront wedge, the first of the pair of shots above is/was edge to edge. The rockwork is in the shape of a pyramid, and the whole tank is 36" wide and 36" deep. Gives me special bennies and special problems.
 
Never been bitten by any damsel except Clowns, yes, often by clowns: Clarkiis have very visible, very sharp little incisors, and they draw blood. The big lady in my photo, small mouth, no visible teeth. And not a nipped fin in the tank.
 
Between my photography and my little camera, don't expect a Rembrandt, but this is the tank as it currently is: wish I had a good one from before.
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I had the 'back glass' black. I peeled that off: I prefer the mirror effect in a wedge tank, that you naturally get. And one thing that has grown like mad is coralline. I don't worry about pretti-fying the downflow box: it starts to look like the rockwork pretty fast. So will the side glass if you don't fight it. The tank is pretty well 36"x36"x36 deep, single Radion 3 pro (depth) and a Gyre powerhead, basement sump. It's tall: I have to climb on a ladder to work with it.
The rockwork consists of baserock pillars that go all the way to the glass, supporting gravity-laid rockwork (all loose) This affords the big damsel a place she can't undermine: those pillars are as big and solid as any rock in there, no matter how she makes the sand fly.
Scraping is a Tunze-Care magnet which can go to depth and clean even below the sandline safely, but with caution.
And there are a lot of mazy caves in that rockwork. You'll see there are basically two piles, each with a cave, each owned by a dascyllus damsel. The little guys mostly court favor of the big gal.
It's a strong flow, so that the fish do need to work and dive and bob as they do in a reef in strong current. They're always active: the problem is catching one standing still long enough, so if there are blue streaks in the photo, that's a fish.
I need to get a photo under the noon whites. There are 4 corals, a sunset monti, a pocillopora, a rescue candy cane, and an acan I've never figured how to make happy.
And if you wonder what that straight bit of coral rubble is doing ruining the symmetry of the poci mount, it's because the last batch of reef putty I bought is way substandard: I'm going back to the green stuff, not the pink, ever. That's holding the poci in place, because the current is way strong up there. LPS wouldn't like to be blown that much but the monti and poci seem happy.
 
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