So I just purchased this blue carpet anemone from a show locally.
- Thread starter Donly1
- Start date
OrionN
Moved on
I think your light is inadequate, both of the light sets. There is not thing wrong with your anemone but he is not getting enough light. He will gradually get weaker and eventually succumb to infection. Gigantea require a lot of light, to the level of full time tropical sun at the surface. They often get expose to air in low tide, under full sun. While they can do well with somewhat less light, your light is not anywhere near enough.
You should either get much better light or else sell the anemone.
BTW. you nitrate is due to the amount of food you feed your tank, chunks of shrimp that you feed the anemone, plus the fish food. In addition to this you run a canister filter which convert all the ammonia produced to Nitrates.
You should either get much better light or else sell the anemone.
BTW. you nitrate is due to the amount of food you feed your tank, chunks of shrimp that you feed the anemone, plus the fish food. In addition to this you run a canister filter which convert all the ammonia produced to Nitrates.
D-Nak
Active member
Your gig can grow to over 24" so I would consider yours a baby. :bdaysmile:
It'll quickly outgrow your tank. Time to get a bigger tank!
In terms of how much they're worth, it really depends on where you're located and how healthy they are. In my area, there are two blue gigs priced at $120-$150 and they're probably 12" when fully expanded. In other areas they can go for quite a bit more.
Purple gigs tend to be the most common, followed by blue ones, and finally green ones are the least common but don't typically cost more than purples or blues. Brown/tan ones aren't typically found in LFS because owners usually want to bring in colored anemones because they sell quicker at a higher profit margin. However, Live Aquaria and Blue Zoo get small tan gigs starting at $40.
Since gigs are poor shippers and usually require treatment during the acclimation process, established gigs can go for quite a bit more money. Some stores in my area are now acclimating gigs but are charging a high premium for it.
On a side note, are you running a protein skimmer? Gigs like extremely clean, oxygenated water and they would benefit from the use of a skimmer. Are you cleaning your canister filter often? I don't use canister filters because I get lazy. If not cleaned often, they become what people call "nitrate factories" and may eventually do more harm than good.
I took some advice about the different test kits. I took my water 2 a couple of Lfs and watch them do a test. Both said that your water is perfect. They do not shake the bottle or the test tubes for nitrate after they cap them. The instructions clearly state to shake the nitrate tube for at least one minute. That's what I've been doing. I took my test kit which expires in 2017 and did a test, shaking the bottles a bit, and the nitrate tube for one full minute after dropping, and the another tube with no shaking. Welcome to find out the tube with no shaking looks awesome, but when you shake the nitrate tube for 1 minute after put the cap on it it shows almost 80 parts per million difference. Has anyone else had this issue?
OrionN
Moved on
You should learn more about the basic reef tank chemistry. Specifically the Nitrogen cycle.
Rock and deep sand bed are slower in breaking down ammonia, but because of the anaerobic condition in the sand and the rock, the ammonia is broken down completely to Nitrogen (N2) and release to the atmosphere.
Your canister filter on the other hand, are much quicker in metabolize ammonia, however, due to the aerobic condition the ammonia only get convert to nitrate and this stay in the aquarium. In addition to this food and solid waste get clot up the filter and break down to ammonia there and then get convert to nitrates. This process compete with the process in the middle of the rock and sand. With the canister, the sand and the rock will not participate very much in breaking down ammonia.
Because of this reason, canister filter are consider nitrate factory. It is not recommended in reef ank. It is useful in Fish only. Other fish only methods of detoxified ammonia, not recommended in reef tanks are: wet dry filter and fluidized filter methods. All of these use aerobic conversion of ammonia to Nitrates. You should go back to the beginner forum or the chemistry forum to read up a little more on the basic chemistry of reef/FOWLR tanks.
Rock and deep sand bed are slower in breaking down ammonia, but because of the anaerobic condition in the sand and the rock, the ammonia is broken down completely to Nitrogen (N2) and release to the atmosphere.
Your canister filter on the other hand, are much quicker in metabolize ammonia, however, due to the aerobic condition the ammonia only get convert to nitrate and this stay in the aquarium. In addition to this food and solid waste get clot up the filter and break down to ammonia there and then get convert to nitrates. This process compete with the process in the middle of the rock and sand. With the canister, the sand and the rock will not participate very much in breaking down ammonia.
Because of this reason, canister filter are consider nitrate factory. It is not recommended in reef ank. It is useful in Fish only. Other fish only methods of detoxified ammonia, not recommended in reef tanks are: wet dry filter and fluidized filter methods. All of these use aerobic conversion of ammonia to Nitrates. You should go back to the beginner forum or the chemistry forum to read up a little more on the basic chemistry of reef/FOWLR tanks.
taylor t
New member
Because I've watched this many many times, eventually they all end the same. One can spend days searching this same type of thread. Take lots of pics so you can see the progression of it from day to day, at the same time. Hopefully you see a trend before it's too late and take action.
Also, once a test kit is used improperly, it's useless. If the instructions say to shake before use, and you don't, you have now changed the make-up ratio of the contents of the test kits, altering the results, most likely making that test kit inaccurate and garbage. It says shake well for a reason. Some have a shake time requirement on them, to be sure it's shaken completely. There's a reason to shake them.
