So I went to install a GFCI outlet and found...

[Lion-o]

Put the wires on the line side only.

The load side is for protection of the downstream devices.

So just leave the additional black wire unplugged?

We do have some sort of meter that I used when installing speakers (surround sound) to make sure the wires were right. Clips on one end and you meter the other to see if they're the same wire. Is that the same thing or something else? Ir so, what would I be clipping and what would I be metering in this case?

 

[fishgate]

Something like this - it needs to be rated for 120 volt A/C.

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bende...id=1375287205&sr=8-1&keywords=120+volt+tester

 

[Jeff000]

So just leave the additional black wire unplugged?

We do have some sort of meter that I used when installing speakers (surround sound) to make sure the wires were right. Clips on one end and you meter the other to see if they're the same wire. Is that the same thing or something else? Ir so, what would I be clipping and what would I be metering in this case?

Both blacks on the line side.
You won't have to meter anything.

The load side is only used if you are protecting downstream devices.


You'd meter you were testing which one is the downstream vs upstream.

 

[Jeff000]

Something like this - it needs to be rated for 120 volt A/C.

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bende...id=1375287205&sr=8-1&keywords=120+volt+tester

I can't believe they still make those. They are terrible.

Either get a multimeter or a non contact voltage tester.

 

[Lion-o]

Both blacks on the line side.
You won't have to meter anything.

The load side is only used if you are protecting downstream devices.


You'd meter you were testing which one is the downstream vs upstream.

Hi Jeff - I don't doubt your knowledge but the diagram that came with the new outlet says otherwise. Line on the top, 1 black 1 white, load on the bottom, 1 black 1 white.

If I did it your way, I would be leaving out the white (neutral?) wire. If so, what is the purpose of that wire and why am I able to just leave it out?

Electrician scheduled for friday, if I can't fix it by then

thanks
danny

 

[Jeff000]

Hi Jeff - I don't doubt your knowledge but the diagram that came with the new outlet says otherwise. Line on the top, 1 black 1 white, load on the bottom, 1 black 1 white.

If I did it your way, I would be leaving out the white (neutral?) wire. If so, what is the purpose of that wire and why am I able to just leave it out?

Electrician scheduled for friday, if I can't fix it by then

thanks
danny

I make a very good living being a dual ticket journeyman electrician (and instrumentation) While I might be in the oilfield, receptacles are fairly simple.

Blacks on the line side, whites on the line side. This way will make that gfi the only receptacle to be protected.

The load side is to extend the protection past the gfi receptacle itself.
The instructions should show both ways to install.


What brand is the gfi?

 

[Mike31154]

You definitely need to confirm which black wire is the hot coming from the breaker or possibly from another device upstream. Hooking the single black that was on the old receptacle to the load side of the GFCI device is a shot in the dark if you don't know what it does and if you do decide to use the load terminals of the GFCI receptacle, you would have both a white & black, not just a black. There should be a wire nut for the blacks, same as the whites & then a short black to the hot terminal of the GFCI. You may run out of room in your box though, so maybe that's why it was done that way. Might be an idea to get a larger box, maybe plastic. This would mean some cutting & refinishing though. Tough call.

Edit: actually not a tough call on a new box. The GFCI is going to take up much more volume in the current metal box than the old receptacle, so you pretty well have to get a larger one to stay within code with regard to the 'fill' in the box. I think getting an electrician in on this job is your best bet.

 

[Lion-o]

What brand is the gfi?

It's a leviton. Here's what i bought (from the local hardware store):

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=N7899-KW&section=42317&minisite=10251

It's also a "slim" model so it fits in the box just fine

I just noticed the video at the bottom of that page and I watched it, my wires after install look just like that , except only the 1 white and two blacks. Line across the top, load across the bottom. Blacks on the receptacle's left, whites on its right.

Here's the link to the instructions I followed

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcG...s3nTgqeA&label=IBE&appName=IBE&minisite=10251

 

[Jeff000]

It's a leviton. Here's what i bought (from the local hardware store):

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=N7899-KW&section=42317&minisite=10251

It's also a "slim" model so it fits in the box just fine

I just noticed the video at the bottom of that page and I watched it, my wires after install look just like that , except only the 1 white and two blacks. Line across the top, load across the bottom. Blacks on the receptacle's left, whites on its right.

Here's the link to the instructions I followed

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcG...s3nTgqeA&label=IBE&appName=IBE&minisite=10251

I like leviton, and those slim ones are nice to work with.

Are you trying to make just that device gfi, or are you trying to protect the downstream devices too?
Like I said. If just that device, put the blacks on the brass screw, you can put two wires(might have to stab one in the back and the other under the screw depending how the terminal is made) . And put the white wire under the silver screw.

Leave the load side empty.

And disregard the naysayers of stabbing into the back. There are literally billions of connections stabbed without issues. Poor workmanship effects all connection methods.

 

[Lion-o]

Hmm I see, so put both of the blacks under the same screw. I can try that tonight.

 

[Jeff000]

Hmm I see, so put both of the blacks under the same screw. I can try that tonight.

How'd it work for you?

 

[Lion-o]

I didnt get a chance to try it last night as I ended up working a 12 hour shift.

I just gave this a last chance shot today and IT WORKED (both blacks under the same hot-line screw).

Now I'm confused at why the second black even exists. I tested all the outlets in the room and they all still had power. I thought the reason for the extra black would be to have additional outlets downstream in serial?

thanks all!

 

[BJCollie]

As I tried to explain in the first post, they where using the switch as a junction, if you ohm the two posts on your original switch you will find they are the same.

 

[Jeff000]

I didnt get a chance to try it last night as I ended up working a 12 hour shift.

I just gave this a last chance shot today and IT WORKED (both blacks under the same hot-line screw).

Now I'm confused at why the second black even exists. I tested all the outlets in the room and they all still had power. I thought the reason for the extra black would be to have additional outlets downstream in serial?

thanks all!

Perfect.

The other black is downstream devices. Putting them both under the same screw is like a splice.

Originally they were under two screws, but if you look at the old device, the screws are connected together.

The other devices are actually in parallel, the gfi you wired is parallel. Nothing in your house would be wired series.