Solana tank owner thread.

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14441232#post14441232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aklee987
I do keep chaeto in the 2nd chamber, but in order to remove/prune it, you have to take out the Vortech box. I velcroed a little strip light to the back of the tank right where the cheato sits.
can you take a pic of the light? what kind is it and where did you get it? i have been wanting to do that but i cant find a light... thanks!
 
Yeah show us some pics of that if you can get behind there?
I purchased the two lights that are submersible from inTank.
I'm just hoping the wire has room after putting the VorTech box in there.
 
Just got my solana, Im very exited, will try to set it up tomorrow afternoon...

How far away from the wall do you have your solana?

How much time does it take to assemble the solana stand and any tips on the assembly?

THX in advance
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14452502#post14452502 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChrisMc73
Yeah show us some pics of that if you can get behind there?
I purchased the two lights that are submersible from inTank.
I'm just hoping the wire has room after putting the VorTech box in there.

I will try to take a pic tonight when it is on. I run it on an opposite lighting schedule from my disco ball. I'm sure there will be room for the wires, if not behind, then definitely beside it. I wouldn't worry about that at all.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14452837#post14452837 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmu
Just got my solana, Im very exited, will try to set it up tomorrow afternoon...

How far away from the wall do you have your solana?

How much time does it take to assemble the solana stand and any tips on the assembly?

THX in advance

My tank is about 3-4 inches off the wall. No particular reason, that's just where I wanted it.

The stand is a pain to put together but didn't take too long, it took me maybe 20 minutes for me to put it together. The only thing I did different is that I did NOT put the back on. That way, its really easy for me to run wires/tubing to under the stand. I know that the back has a hole cut in it, but I didn't want to mess with it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14457309#post14457309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aklee987
My tank is about 3-4 inches off the wall. No particular reason, that's just where I wanted it.

The stand is a pain to put together but didn't take too long, it took me maybe 20 minutes for me to put it together. The only thing I did different is that I did NOT put the back on. That way, its really easy for me to run wires/tubing to under the stand. I know that the back has a hole cut in it, but I didn't want to mess with it.

WOW!! You might want to rethink that!
That back piece is what gives the stand its structural rigidity. Without that you are risking the whole stand collapsing. I would definitely get some bracing on the back, even if you have to do it from the inside.

When I had the VorTech running on full wave mode it would shake the stand. So, I added a 20x4x1 board glued with gorilla glue and then screwed it on. Now it is rock solid!

I'm just trying to help.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14458010#post14458010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by demon16v
WOW!! You might want to rethink that!
That back piece is what gives the stand its structural rigidity. Without that you are risking the whole stand collapsing. I would definitely get some bracing on the back, even if you have to do it from the inside.

When I had the VorTech running on full wave mode it would shake the stand. So, I added a 20x4x1 board glued with gorilla glue and then screwed it on. Now it is rock solid!

I'm just trying to help.

Thanks. Definitely something to think about. I had my father in law (he makes cabinets for a living) take a look at it, knowing how much a tank weighs, and he said it would be OK. I have my Vortech running on lagoon mode full blast and there is no movement of the tank or stand.

I will admit, when I clean the glass very vigorously, the stand shakes. I may have to add some bracing in the back now, perhaps if I did that, it would be more solid.
 
thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

I have been pondering the idea of changing my current lighting from the 150w hqi to Current USA Nova Extreme Pro T5 6 x18w. I have many SPS, a few LPS corals, and a clam. Will this be enough light for SPS? Is anyone running this setup, and if so how is working out? The reason i want to change is to keep temps down and like how the color comes out more vibrant.
 
Anyone has the link for intank website? does the underwater led good for keeping Chaeto? my concern is chaeto is too close to the return pump, the broken chaeto will be sucked back display area, it will be the pain to remove those in LR.

I just transfered my SPS and clam from another tank to my solana. I have lost clam, and one of purple Acropora got bleached. What should I do to make the Acropora color back?

my old tank is 150W MH too, as I read, the solana pendant gives more par than other 150W MH. If it is true, do you think the lighting change bleached the Acropora?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14460744#post14460744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lastduke
Anyone has the link for intank website? does the underwater led good for keeping Chaeto? my concern is chaeto is too close to the return pump, the broken chaeto will be sucked back display area, it will be the pain to remove those in LR.

I just transfered my SPS and clam from another tank to my solana. I have lost clam, and one of purple Acropora got bleached. What should I do to make the Acropora color back?

my old tank is 150W MH too, as I read, the solana pendant gives more par than other 150W MH. If it is true, do you think the lighting change bleached the Acropora?

If you kept the lower baffle in the middle chamber, wouldn't that keep the chaeto from entering the thrid chamber and interfering with your return pump, assuming of course that it is regularly pruned?

I would also say that the light could be a possible contributor to your SPS bleaching. What position in the tank did you put it when you transferred it over? Some say that it is good to start all corals at the bottom to light acclimate them when transferring, regardless if the transfer is from your LFS or a different tank; different lighting is different lighting no matter where it comes from.
 
Re: thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

Re: thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14460244#post14460244 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wcollier
I have been pondering the idea of changing my current lighting from the 150w hqi to Current USA Nova Extreme Pro T5 6 x18w. I have many SPS, a few LPS corals, and a clam. Will this be enough light for SPS? Is anyone running this setup, and if so how is working out? The reason i want to change is to keep temps down and like how the color comes out more vibrant.

Well my wife wanted the disco ball HQi pendant because it looks awsome and I wanted the NEP for the flexibility and how cool it runs .

Set up the tank last night with the NEP 6x18 fixture... I really like it...
 
Well I set up the tank last night...

Used around 25lbs of live rock (had been out of the water from the LFS tub and in a cooler for around 10 hours)

Used 30lbs of aragamax and 5lbs of aragamax live sand.

Used 25g of newly made saltwater with seachem salt.

How long should I wait for the tank to cycle? should I turn the lights on while its cycling?

I plan on waiting around 30 days to start stocking, is that too long?
 
Never to long. If this is a hard cycle, I'd start the lights after two weeks or nitrites read zero. You might start getting some nice coralline growth or a hitchhiker coral showing up.
 
Re: Re: thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

Re: Re: thinking of changing from disco ball 150 to T5

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14462046#post14462046 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmu
Well my wife wanted the disco ball HQi pendant because it looks awsome and I wanted the NEP for the flexibility and how cool it runs .

Set up the tank last night with the NEP 6x18 fixture... I really like it...

Pictures please!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14460744#post14460744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lastduke
Anyone has the link for intank website? does the underwater led good for keeping Chaeto? my concern is chaeto is too close to the return pump, the broken chaeto will be sucked back display area, it will be the pain to remove those in LR.

I just transfered my SPS and clam from another tank to my solana. I have lost clam, and one of purple Acropora got bleached. What should I do to make the Acropora color back?

my old tank is 150W MH too, as I read, the solana pendant gives more par than other 150W MH. If it is true, do you think the lighting change bleached the Acropora?

Here is the link for inTanks stuff...
http://www.mediabaskets.com/

The lights aren't actually LED lights, they are just two sumbmersible lights, but not LED.
http://shop.mediabaskets.com/product.sc?categoryId=13&productId=16
 
I don't think the lower baffle is fine enough to block the small chaeto. every time when I pull out the chaeto from the water, the small pieces fell back the water based on my experience from another sump.

The SPS was in the similar position of the old tank as I mounted in the new tank. That is why I didn't do the acclimate. Do it slow, i didn't follow this rule:(
Is it too late if I move it down to the bottom now?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14461640#post14461640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mook Man
If you kept the lower baffle in the middle chamber, wouldn't that keep the chaeto from entering the thrid chamber and interfering with your return pump, assuming of course that it is regularly pruned?

I would also say that the light could be a possible contributor to your SPS bleaching. What position in the tank did you put it when you transferred it over? Some say that it is good to start all corals at the bottom to light acclimate them when transferring, regardless if the transfer is from your LFS or a different tank; different lighting is different lighting no matter where it comes from.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14462960#post14462960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lastduke
Thanks, Chris, how is the rating of this underwater lights? does it enough for chaeto growth?

I'd say it does fine, as does the inTank folks...

Underwater 10W double light
Why scrape paint or spend time mounting a top light for chaeto? These underwater lights are perfect for making a fuge and fit around all media and fuge baskets. Does not raise the temperature in your tank.
Two 10W lights to cover both sides of chaeto
Low heat bulbs
Submersible only
Power cord included
Fits around every media basket inTank produces.
Powerful enough to grow macro algae
Bulbs can be replaced!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14462488#post14462488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmu
Well I set up the tank last night...

Used around 25lbs of live rock (had been out of the water from the LFS tub and in a cooler for around 10 hours)

Used 30lbs of aragamax and 5lbs of aragamax live sand.

Used 25g of newly made saltwater with seachem salt.

How long should I wait for the tank to cycle? should I turn the lights on while its cycling?

I plan on waiting around 30 days to start stocking, is that too long?

Forgot to mention, I finished setting up the tank late last night and didnt set up the skimmer

Should I turn the skimmer on ASAP?
 
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