Solaris Led lighting systems

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I stated earlier about getting one and I am not picking sides here but bean is correct in his posts and I see him in plenty of others also hes not attacking anyone hes just showing how things are so please dont get affended thinking he is attacking any of you. What he is doing is exactly what Im looking for the overall savings. That would be the only reason I would buy one. Like he stated I a, either gonna het this or downgrade to 250's which in reurn will lower my bill for me. In a year my tank will be grown out and by then I am gonna need less lighting to stunt my growth anyway so that I wont have to prune as much and worry about selling frags. Sounds wierd everyone wants growth but i want it to a point lol. Please lets work on gettikng this info from all you guys that have them heres a great idea scan your past bills and present blackout any personal info in it and post them to show how much you are paying then and how much your paying now just a thought
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8879954#post8879954 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
I stated earlier about getting one and I am not picking sides here but bean is correct in his posts and I see him in plenty of others also hes not attacking anyone hes just showing how things are so please dont get affended thinking he is attacking any of you. What he is doing is exactly what Im looking for the overall savings. That would be the only reason I would buy one. Like he stated I a, either gonna het this or downgrade to 250's which in reurn will lower my bill for me. In a year my tank will be grown out and by then I am gonna need less lighting to stunt my growth anyway so that I wont have to prune as much and worry about selling frags. Sounds wierd everyone wants growth but i want it to a point lol. Please lets work on gettikng this info from all you guys that have them heres a great idea scan your past bills and present blackout any personal info in it and post them to show how much you are paying then and how much your paying now just a thought

Tanya and others...

the only reason you may buy one is because of the heat savings, but that is not true for many of us including myself.
I for starters want to buy one for many other reasons...
1) size of the fixture based on my set up (height and width)
2) the day and night cycle capability ( so I can customize the look of the aquarium)
3) the balasts (power supplies) that come with in due to space.
4) coral growth compatibility with MH's
5) etc...

So I support Owsi's proposal to starting a new thread. If heat is the only criteria for you, I recommend you continue with this thread and also join the new one. But it seems to me and others that this thread has been hijacked to only discuss heat dissipation.
And I strongly disagree with many claims that both sides make but again... heat is not the only subject that I would like to know about...
I hope you understand.

Go ahead owsi (as a new owner of a solaris) you have my support (and from the looks of it) a lot of others' support to start one. I'M MOSTLY INTERESTED IN THE OTHER ASPECTS OF THE FIXTURE.

5)
 
I understand that BUT its not heat issues were all talking about its the electric savings that will besaved by transfering over to it from MH. And heat is part of the electric savings since you use less electric running ac units and chillers to reduce the heat in the tank
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8879906#post8879906 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I did address the post. I agree that a 300W MH radiates less heat directly into a fish tank than the same 300W worth of LEDs.

However both units "put out" the same amount of heat. Watts are Watts. Put em both in insulated boxes and both will cause a thermometer in that box to rise at the same rate and to the same temperature. The "insulated box" is akin to the room your tank is in for our purposes. Yes you coudl nit pick some difference in the type and wavelengths of the energy and how they are absorbed and conducted through the room... but all in all they are the same.

SO 300W MH vs 375W solaris... the 375w SOLARIS puts more energy into the room. Again this is pretty basic stuff. Now the feeling of "warmth" in the room is dependent on many things. A standard fireplace can appear to "heat" a room. But in reality the net heat can be negative because of the air drawn out of the room. You would have a hard time explaining that to somebody standing in front of the fireplace.

Bean

How much heat is radiated into the water is definitely important. MH radiates a lot of heat into the water, and if I understand correctly LED light itself does not radiate heat.

Our rooms are controlled by our HVAC systems, so heat radiated into the room can be easily handled by the house, the difficult part is to keep the water temp from overheating. If the difference between MH and LED is need or not need a chiller, for example, that can be a big factor since a chiller itself is a big ticket item.

Anyone after using Solaris noticed you can get away with not having that chiller?
 
BTW, LED as I understood in the past was the hallmark of using minimum electric energy compared to conventional light bulbs, so when I found out the Solaris fixtures are rated a few hundred watts that did surprise me. I guess there is no magic if you have to match the sunlight.
 
Skydancer...

I agree completely. And to add what I consider to be an important reason for my interest in these units... the ability to program a 'soft on/off' to reduce shock to fish (not to mention the possibility of spawning behavior being effected). Those of you that watch your tanks closely will confirm the 'jump' or fleeting action that most fish take upon a MH shutdown (startup isn't as bad since the lamp has to warm up first). However, in nature such events are slow and gradual. The ability to replicate that with the Solaris is of great interest to me. I currently have to attempt this with additional actinic t5 and LED moonlighting... but it just doesn't work as well as I would like. Not to sound like an 'advertisement' for PFO and be accused by others here. I'm just adding my .02 to Skydancer's reasons and the need to expand this conversation or start a new thread.
 
I have had Zero heat gain with my tank been about a month. I have my Ebo's set at 79 and they cycle from about 11:00PM till 8:00 AM. Tank stays 79 all day, getting a new Controler next week, then will drop temp to 77 and see what happens. Its ruff finding a controler that does what I want, having the Solaris and Tunze 7095. Just want good Temp control and pH monitor, Still going between the Aquatroller III and Reefkeeper II
 
skydancer your interests and reasons for purchase are very valid. The operating parameters of these systems do appear to be well thought out.

1) energy usage
2) spectrum
3) features
4) life expectancy

are all things that have been advertised as adding value to these systems. Looking at each feature and comparing it ot the other lighting technologies is the only way you can make an honest comparison. Myth needs separated from fact, not propogated.

As it stands most people understand little about LED technology but are willing to believe the claims on the side of a box and relay it as fact because they are "happy owners". If we as reefers beleived the hype on the side of every box, we would happily own Prizm Skimmers, eBay RO/DI systems, Tetra pumps, and every other product that was advertised as high tech.

Jacmyoung, you hit the nail on the head. The MH radiates more heat INTO the tank directly but you notice that the room AC has to remove the heat radiated into the room. In the case of a single piece chiller, it must also remove the heat from the tank and the inefficiency of the chiller. Either way, the heat has to be removed from the room, or it will soak back into the fish tank (or at least slow the cooling of the tank). In other words if you put heat into the room or the tank, it still has to be taken care of.

Now your point about negating the need for a chiller is very valid. If the heat is radiated to the room and not the tank, it has a better chance of passibly leaking out without requiring more electricity to remove it. Do not forget that that same "leaky room" will also aid in removing the MH heat equally well.

You are correct, there is no magic here, just basic concepts. You will certainly have better results with less heat readiated into the tank, and that is certainly a PLUS for the LED setups.

The light output and spectrum are a bit more complicated.

Bean
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8880893#post8880893 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefWraith
Skydancer...

I agree completely. And to add what I consider to be an important reason for my interest in these units... the ability to program a 'soft on/off' to reduce shock to fish (not to mention the possibility of spawning behavior being effected). Those of you that watch your tanks closely will confirm the 'jump' or fleeting action that most fish take upon a MH shutdown (startup isn't as bad since the lamp has to warm up first). However, in nature such events are slow and gradual. The ability to replicate that with the Solaris is of great interest to me. I currently have to attempt this with additional actinic t5 and LED moonlighting... but it just doesn't work as well as I would like. Not to sound like an 'advertisement' for PFO and be accused by others here. I'm just adding my .02 to Skydancer's reasons and the need to expand this conversation or start a new thread.

I will be using (2) T5 dimmer setups to do this. Of course it is a DIY venture, but it will be part of my overall controller. The sunrise sunset is a nice feature. PWM controlled (dimmable) MH ballasts are also starting to appear on the scene.

I wish to make another point here as well. Even though the LED technology is moving foward and things like "sunrise/sunset/clouds/etc" are nice. The technology is not yet efficient or mature enough to be adopted by commercial and industrial facilities for high intensity lighting. The dead give away will be when fixtures like this start showing up over warehouse and manufacturing floors. ARC lighting dominates this arena. T5s have started to move in, as they savings can be quantified. When companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars a year on floor lighting... every kWh counts. When LEDs are ready, that is where you will see them.

Bean
 
I just saw, for the first time live, an actual 48" 20K Solaris unit today at my LFS. My inpression of it is totally my opinion but here goes. It definitely produces Glitter lines. I put my hand under the LEDs and it felt warm but not hot. The light is very artifical looking. Hard to explain, kinda flat. It was on a 150 Gallon so the light it produced did not cover the front of the tank. I don't think peneration was that good either. Seems dim at the bottom of the tank. The LFS had many MHs next to the tank with the solaris and the light from the MHs is brighter and whiter.
That is my initial impression of it.
 
How much are they selling the units for at your LFS? Will they be using it long term on a display tank where meaningfull comparisons can be made, or is it a retail tank where nothing will stay for more than a week or two?

Bean
 
I didn't ask about the price. It looks like they are trying it out themselves. It is on a tank that is for retail. Full of SPS.
After seeing it with my own eyes, I am thinking about waiting. Let the technology grow some more. Haven't made a definite decision yet. It definitely needs competition for two things to happen. Further innovation and price reduction. This will only benefit the consumers.
 
I think the Solaris is a great first step.

Hopefully, in the next 2-3 years, competition and improvements will arise to lower prices and increase performance.

At least then, I'll actually be able to afford something like this. Haha :)

Peace,
John H.
 
Its about the animals. But ok here are the top 10 reasons I love my SOLARIS in no particular order:

1)Less heat

2)Looks great

3) Corals look great

4) Less algae

5) More control of day and night cycles /REAL EASY TO PROGRAM

6) Cloud cover just like god provides

7) Smaller,quieter,cooler light weight ballasts

8) Much MUCH less clutter

9) Bulb life greatly extended. some say 70% in 11 years. I'll take 90% in 6 and be ok

10) Quiet as hell

10.5) Pat at PFO who I can speak to personally every time I have question is backing up this product 100% in every way imaginable.
 
More energy into the room...what does that mean? The air blowing out of the side of SOLARIS is never more than 84 degrees! More of the 375 watts actually goes in the tank directly where it's used and needed as opposed to the MH set up which lit the whole freakin room. My room is dark except where the tank stands. No light on the walls, floor or cieling just in the tank. I would think the 375w is MORE USEABLE LIGHT. Not scientific you say but my tank at 4 months old looks better than 50% of all posted pics on this site and I'm being generous! AS soon as I figure out how to shoot the tank I'll post a pic and you be the judge. So the only real question with MY light is how will it hold up long term? What will actual bulb replacement cost?
 
Did my first frag today under Solaris. Took one of my ORA Blue Torts and cut a couple frags to place center tank, 16" from lens of Solaris. The Torts and Marshall Islands are loving this light, Liz is off on Thursday, so should be able to post some pics then.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8880914#post8880914 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by owsi
I have had Zero heat gain with my tank been about a month. I have my Ebo's set at 79 and they cycle from about 11:00PM till 8:00 AM. Tank stays 79 all day, getting a new Controler next week, then will drop temp to 77 and see what happens. Its ruff finding a controler that does what I want, having the Solaris and Tunze 7095. Just want good Temp control and pH monitor, Still going between the Aquatroller III and Reefkeeper II

Owsi,
in regards to the controller, I own an Aquacontroller III PRO and I absolutely love it. It is a great product...
 
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