Solaris Led lighting systems

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10141853#post10141853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bstreep
Actually, PFO HAS agreed to provide one - remember, I'm paying for it up front. I don't want anyone to think I'm getting something for free, and that it will influence me in any way. He won't have one until August, but that's probably in line with Aquaillumination's release.

How long does it take to take a couple of pix?

Has he agreed to refund you if it loses? Because thats what really matters.
 
The original proposal is on page 16 of this thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1080494&perpage=25&pagenumber=16

I've agreed to buy a 72" version of the winning fixture (assuming the MH doesn't win...), the winner will credit me the cost of the 24" fixture towards the 72". The loser(s) will refund my purchase price upon return of the fixture. I BELIEVE I have the agreement with both parties, but I'll put a short document together detailing this.
 
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I'd love to see the outcome of this test. I had been planning on purchasing a Solaris but after following this thread for quite some time I'll hold off until the results come through. If nothing else I've had a lesson in basic physics. Cheers guys ! :D
 
Thanks spleen93,
So 440watts for a 36" Solaris H4. I can only guess the 72" H4 draws 880watts?
I'm sticking with my (3) 250watt HQI's for now.
 
While I appreciate the physics education and agree the LEDs have a way to go, still one can not ignore the fact some Solaris owners like the fixtures not just because they have spent a lot of money and have to justify them.

They did notice less electricity use and better or similar coral growth. You just can't simply dismiss that. Maybe coral do not need that much light to begin with, then a better comparison would be a less wattage MH light fixture, say a 175W MH fixture, will it be equally good at growing coral?

The fact the LEDs can provide better blue may be why they can provide good coral growth while having less watts/light intensity.
 
woulndt one way to compensate for a lower output fixture (whatever it migth be) to just let it run for a little longer??
would the end result be the same??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10147009#post10147009 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prugs
Thanks spleen93,
So 440watts for a 36" Solaris H4. I can only guess the 72" H4 draws 880watts?
I'm sticking with my (3) 250watt HQI's for now.

Came out to 6 kwH after leaving the Kill-a-watt on the fixture for 24 hours. Multiply that by 30 days and your cents/kwH to get your cost of operating the fixture for a month. :)

Spleen
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10152778#post10152778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleen93
Came out to 6 kwH after leaving the Kill-a-watt on the fixture for 24 hours. Multiply that by 30 days and your cents/kwH to get your cost of operating the fixture for a month. :)

Spleen

I assume this is for the 36" fixture, then it is not much less in energy use than a 36" MH fixture. The only meaningful benefits then are less heat in the tank (directed away from water) and day/night simulation?
 
Don't forget the cool looks! :)

I guess one could argue that color temperature selection is also a feature though it would come at the expense of PAR.

Spleen
 
Well. After giving this a couple of day's thought, I'm inclined to NOT do this experiment. Frankly, I have too much invested to commit 2/3 of my SPS investment to a new, unproven technology. As much as I'd WISH that this would work, I just can't risk my tank to this technology. While my wife is/was "all in" on the LED technology, she doesn't want to see than great progress I've had go down the drain. I'll let others determine if it works. If the future embraces the technology, I'll buy. Meantime, I'm going to order a chiller for my tank. I wish the folks at PFO and Aquaillumination the best.

Later,
 
Thats why when I decided to try T5s, I set up an extra tank that was plumbed into the main system to then go and mount some T5s over. This way, nothing to lose except frags from the main tank.
 
Bill - too bad, I was looking forward to seeing the results of the experiment. But I can certainly understand the reluctance -- I wish you well with your tank.

Spleen
 
I have read this thread throughly and have had both MH's and the solaris...Number one I love my Solaris, and I will point out its advantages and disadvantages's... Starting with the bad well it does not have the shimmering affect like MH, and this is a beautifull aspect of lighting..2: It is so powerfull that you will have to do some tweeking to get the light the way you want. 3: A canopy is out of the question without some modifications. 4: It is not yet proven that it will grow better nor less than MH and last but not least (P*R*I*C*E).. Now for the good It is a self sustained unit you set the clock( which I dont really like military time) and let it go.. 2:It has a great effect when at sunrise as well as sunset, which you can also set the length of both..3: It doesnot heat the water which causes for a chiller.. 4: It uses less electricity..5: It is light weight anyone that has MH know that the ballast are heavy...There are more advantages than disadvantages's.. Overall I say the Solaris is a good Idea for me.. And I am a proud owner
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10155201#post10155201 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleen93
Don't forget the cool looks! :)

I guess one could argue that color temperature selection is also a feature though it would come at the expense of PAR.

Spleen

You can do the same with a MH. Either switch bulbs, or put filters in front of it. IIRC, the nice Sfilgois have filters that you can get to move over, for cloud cover, etc.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10168919#post10168919 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
You can do the same with a MH. Either switch bulbs, or put filters in front of it. IIRC, the nice Sfilgois have filters that you can get to move over, for cloud cover, etc.

Rich - I think it's the Elos Suncolor you're thinking of ...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1112879
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1096908

Yeah ... that's another dream light for me. :)

Spleen
 
Im just putting the halide on a light mover... you want cloud effects?>... Ill give you cloud affects!

lovefish2, I would not rate a lighting system based on the size of its ballast, but yes, the PFO units in particular are very heavy. They dont have vents, to muzzle the noise, and so they have to make the box into a large heatsink to compensate.

OTOH, have you ever used an icecap or EVC, or Im sure other e-ballasts would be the same... they are light... very light.
 
hahn - I have my old Blue Wave IV e-ballasts - they ARE lighter than magnetic MH ballasts but they are still much bigger and emit much more heat than my Solaris ballasts. Maybe I just had crappy e-ballasts? LOL

Spleen
 
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